Smartin

57 Torque Tube Paint/Finishes

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While cleaning off the scuzz from the torque tube on my Roadmaster, I discovered some factory paint stripes that might be of interest to some.  I also see that there is not a trace of any black paint on it at all.  Contrary to what I have always believed...

 

What I haven't seen yet, is if I can find any trace of black paint on the rear end or long strut arms that run diagonally from the wheels to the center of the torque tube.  In my haste to clean the parts up, I mistakenly blasted the short part of tube clean, losing any bare metal appearance that could have been preserved.  Nonetheless, I think I will still paint all of these parts black to protect them, but I will recreate the paint stripes I have found.  The darker stripe is a straight blue, but it appears very dark or black in the photos.  One of the stripes appears to be half red and half yellow.  If the tube was cleaner, like had no rust, I would try to preserve the bare metal appearance.

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One option is to simply thoroughly degrease it, and paint over it (rust included) with por-15 clear.  Unlike other products, this actually does stop and seal rust.  It's susceptible to uv rays without a topcoat, but being under the car that shouldn't be such an issue.

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I am still on the fence...I need to figure out how to make my freshly blasted rear tube section look like it wasn't blasted LOL

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How about treating the rust with some etching acid, like "New Metal" or  even white vinegar?  Maybe etch the entire tube, repaint the stripes and then clear coat the entire unit.  Worse that could happen is it doesn't look right but since it would be etched, a light sanding and then it could be painted black to cover it all up. 

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I already screwed up the short half of the tube by blasting it.  I don't think I can get it to look right anymore.

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 Duplicolor Bumper Coating (FB106 Gray Bumper) over etching primer is the closest  I have found to mimic the look of bare steel.  Locally available and very durable.

Oh, and thanks for jumping in and getting a diagnosis...saves us from all the endless speculation and "I think", "I don't think" (kinda like cable news :().

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Thanks...I’ll look into that.  

 

I couldn’t let the car just sit there and tease me, so I had to jump in😁

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15 hours ago, lancemb said:

One option is to simply thoroughly degrease it, and paint over it (rust included) with por-15 clear.  Unlike other products, this actually does stop and seal rust.  It's susceptible to uv rays without a topcoat, but being under the car that shouldn't be such an issue.

Very useful information, noted , thanks 

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1 hour ago, Pilgrim65 said:

Very useful information, noted , thanks 

No problem!  I hope to have the rear end out of my coupe I'm restoring in the next couple months.  If it still has prominent factory markings on it as Smartin's does after cleaning, this is what I'm going to do (clear coat it).  If it is heavily rusted, I may try to remove a good portion of it first chemically.  If it just doesn't merit preservation, I may just paint it black.

Edited by lancemb (see edit history)

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17 hours ago, Smartin said:

I am still on the fence...I need to figure out how to make my freshly blasted rear tube section look like it wasn't blasted LOL

 

I left mine alone on the 60.   

 

IMAG1545.thumb.jpg.c6fcc5109c143479065a3

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Leave it alone.  There are too many cars already with overrestored gloss black undercarriages.

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Damn now you guys are going to make me scrub all the nasty undercoating off the entire rear end 🤣

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Don't over look Bronze clear coat.  I put that on my 56's steering box. There are other pigmented clear coats in spray cans too at the Ace Hardware. 

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I'll look into the other parts of the assembly and see if they are worth trying to cleanup and clear coat.  Otherwise, I think I will lean toward black.

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8 hours ago, old-tank said:

(...nobody will see it...)

 

You could be that guy at the car show with the mirror under the car.

 

"Yeah its worth $70,000, but I'm not gonna sell"

 

"I didn't ask..."

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19 hours ago, old-tank said:

(...nobody will see it...)

 

Maybe a squirrel. 😲

 

20 hours ago, Smartin said:

Damn now you guys are going to make me scrub all the nasty undercoating off the entire rear end 🤣

 

I had but a little bit of undercoating.  Most of my grime was years of dirt built up on grease and oil.   I left the axle as it was.   Made no sense as no one would see it and my 60 is a survivor.  Was going to keep that survivor theme alive.       

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I considered that...if the car was original I definitely would have gone with no refinishing.  Since it's been painted and interior is redone, I decided just to "over-do" it.  Never heard of anyone getting docked points for having a black rear/torque tube.

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My '60 Electra has quite a few things that aren't correct including the overdone torque tube and rearend. I got a second place trophy at an AACA meet once, but I had to send them 35 bucks to get it. The trophy had been sitting on my dresser next to the bowl I keep my watches in.

 

Maybe there is a motivational thing in me that hasn't blossomed yet.

Bernie

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1 hour ago, Smartin said:

I considered that...if the car was original I definitely would have gone with no refinishing.  Since it's been painted and interior is redone, I decided just to "over-do" it.  Never heard of anyone getting docked points for having a black rear/torque tube.

 

I would do the same in this circumstance.  I would try to re-create the factory color marks.  I know no one would see it.  But knowing myself, I would sleep better at night knowing I attempted to keep it as if new from the factory. 

 

Keep us posted on the repairs!  Threads like this are invaluable for other running into the same problems looking for solutions to a repair.        

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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Martin ... just get some Poor Boys wheel paste and apply 3 coats as directed  to the tube and whatever other exposed metal you have ... it will keep the metal protected from rusting and does not wash off very easily ... clears sprayed over bare metal is really a non performer idea as the clear to adhere long term needs a binder to bond to such as a primer or top coat otherwise you will get adhesion problems down the road .  So here's a few photos of my 

factory original torque tube taken from a post I published here about 5 or 6 years ago .... not painted from factory with original assembly line markings .....

 

DSCF0741.thumb.JPG.c4471882ea92ba8aed405a55d0658471.JPGDSCF0737.thumb.JPG.9291af8d5d53eecd064a72ab312b108b.JPGDSCF0736.thumb.JPG.7b752365d00ad15d554d9440992fce66.JPGDSCF0743.thumb.JPG.2e6a40051876b52ac5b26bac08f60456.JPGDSCF0733.thumb.JPG.7d5bba12976f59128d33523fc61956e8.JPGDSCF0732.thumb.JPG.e975611941f98b3a39e8b365cf764aac.JPG19260464_CoupeFrame30.thumb.JPG.8d2fb3c8e4cfeb52508526d7186c3227.JPG

1218050147_PoorBoysWheelSealent.thumb.jpg.a542789b39e8232258a492ed97443dca.jpg

Edited by buick man (see edit history)
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Did you notice a big wide white paint mark on the bottom of the rear end center section?  That was the only paint I could find on the entire rear itself.

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8 hours ago, Smartin said:

Did you notice a big wide white paint mark on the bottom of the rear end center section?  That was the only paint I could find on the entire rear itself.

 

Yes, I seem to recall paint under the center axle.  

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... No paint on my pumpkin differential or axle housings ... the front differential carrier on the other hand which connects to the driveshaft/torque tube is painted from the factory a semi gloss enamel adobe brown 

 

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NOS Differential Gear Carrier Case-1.jpg

Edited by buick man (see edit history)
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