Mark Kikta

1922 engine progress

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Today I replaced the padding material needed on the top brackets and bottom straps for mounting my newly reworked gas tank. I attached the material to the top bracket with a split rivet as it was originally attached.  After putting the top brackets and insulating material in place, I jacked the tank up into position and installed the lower straps and insulating material.   I tightened the lower straps and the tank is in place.

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

I picked up my new battery box this week.  My friend made this for me and he powder coated it for me also.  I think it really looks good.

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The ground strap in my E-49 was a lead plate attached to the battery box which attached to the frame. I was not happy about that, because my battery box is all rusty (like in your before pic) . So, I sent a 2 gauge wire over to the transmission for ground. I don't see a ground strap on your box so they must have changed it by '22.

 

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Yes my 1922 is different.  My ground cable is attached to the frame next to the battery box.  I intend to make my ground cable a split cable that attaches to both the frame and the transmission case.

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Decided to pull the old girl outside today to give her some fresh air and check my exhaust system condition by blowing air through it using my backpack yard blower.  Seemed to be open fine and only some small rust particles came out.

 

Now I can get on to attaching the exhaust manifold heat control valve and my carburetor too.

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This past weekend I finished adjusting my carburetor float and installed it on the car.  Then I installed the heat control valve between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe along with the two heat pipes going to the carburetor.  I had those pipes welded shut at the ends inside the heat control valve so I should not have any heat issues related to them anyway.

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Decided to order my new plug wires this week.  They came today.  
 

I ordered a set of plug wires from RJ&L wiring in NY.  They were out of the black wire so I ordered the set in brown.  The terminals on the spark plug connectors are great looking.  Can’t wait to get them fitted soon.

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Mark,

Are those the plug terminals that I sent to you?  Could you show the bottom side of one of them?  I would like to see how they fasten on to the top of the plug.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Mark:

 The fellow at RJ&L told me that he sold me his last black 9mm set when I spoke to him at Hershey. He said he was going to have more made up. I have still experienced some leakage on these new wires. Most visible was the coil wire at the end of the block (head on our cars) where on our 1925s is to have a clip to hold it and the primary wire from the distributor. I may have to make a micarta separator plate like Hugh did for the same reason. Just saying that I did not have any leakage problems with the Oak with black tracer type you now have. But at the time this is what came with my car when I bought it. Also they were shorter and not clustered and bunched through a cover as the car did not have one at the time

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  March 2011                                                                                      July 2019 I probably should have shortened the lengths to fit better as they appear to be one size fits all 6 cylinder Buicks. My Master has a later Delco Distributor adapted and that cap take 7mm wires. Probably from a John Deere tractor. They are John Deere Green!

                                                                                                                               

Edited by dibarlaw
Added content (see edit history)
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Dad and I visited his shop several years ago, we didn't buy a pre made set, instead bought the pieces parts from him and made our own, if I'm not mistaken our center wire for our 23 was a different thickness as Larry states, have had no issue with them. Real nice fellow and very helpful. Terry - the end caps snap on top of the plugs and fit snug. Larry - just a question - do you have a small piece of metal that holds the wires under the cover that secures them? Hope everyone is doing well!

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Terry,

 

I saw the Hugh had purchased a set from them on an earlier post and he said that he liked them a lot.  Then there was a lot of talk about leakage too recently so I decided to try a set of pre-mades for my first set.  So these are not the ones you sent me.     If I have any issues with these I’ll try the original ends on some new Packard 7mm wire that I also bought as another solution.

 

Here are a couple of photos of the pre-made ends that came with the set.  I guess I will need to order a coil wire since that did not come with the set.

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I still like the RJ&L wire sets.  I love the look of them.  I did install a new set - and my old set only had 400 miles on it.  Black 9mm.  I am keeping it as a spare as I think it is still a good set.   I got his last set from the black 9mm wire that he had in stock (after Hershey), so new sets would be using a new lot number of wire I would suspect.  

 

I wonder what they do to test the quality of the wire insulation.  I love the spark plug end connection, but the other end is a common poor quality connector.  To do it right, I would solder the brass ends to the cap end of the wire.  You can see the arcing that I had.  Maybe at least just solder the coil wire end as  it see a lot more firing.  This was the coil wire connector at the cap end and you can see where it was arcing at the point that pushes into the insulation.  It removed the brass pointer.     A good fix is to cut the insulation back about 1/4" and push the wire thru the triangular hole, then solder it onto the face of the connector.  

 

Also reposting a link of what I installed to keep any oil away from the wires that are behind the spark plug cover. 

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/337137-mid-20s-buick-keeping-plug-wires-clean/?tab=comments#comment-1965345  

 

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Jim :

 Are you referring to the #165502 (may be same part # on your car) High tension wire clamp?

339656366_1112097495_sparkplugwireshield3.thumb.JPG.8fdeaa2583fcf736b0d52c34c4495e901.jpg.3d6b824ce5d1682127f0827091524b4a.jpg   These are the same on both my Standard and Master. Even the later Straight 8s have these clamps under the spark plug cover. Different design. Still with the 9mm wires it was like trying to fit a 2 pound bologna in a 1pound bag. I did add 1/8 tall micarta washers under the 1/4"X20 screws so the wires could be moved a bit. I am still going to try Hugh's method of Isolation.

 On the 2 sets of wires I made up for the car (one NOS 7mm wire and the new RJ&L set)I used the same technique as Hugh by soldering the clips to go in distributor cap.

 I love the spark plug end clips as they are very positive. Unfortunately one broke while installing. But I did have one from the set that came with the car in 2011.

 

 

Edited by dibarlaw (see edit history)

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That is the part, just curious, it does make the wires lay side by side and neater, thanks Larry for replying!

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Today I got most of my Stewart Vacuum tank parts back from the glass bead blaster and they really cleaned up well.  One issues I noticed was that the bolt that holds the fuel line on the top of the tank was really deformed from someone really torquing it down,most likely to stop it from leaking.  I think I need to do something to it so it won't leak for me.  Maybe I will file the underneath of the bolt head smooth?Someone must have put a lot of pressure on it to deform the head like this and also crack the bolt around the hole for the fuel to go through.  Anyone have any other ideas or anyone have a similar bolt they want to sell?

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19 minutes ago, Mark Kikta said:

Today I got most of my Stewart Vacuum tank parts back from the glass bead blaster and they really cleaned up well.  One issues I noticed was that the bolt that holds the fuel line on the top of the tank was really deformed from someone really torquing it down,most likely to stop it from leaking.  I think I need to do something to it so it won't leak for me.  Maybe I will file the underneath of the bolt head smooth?Someone must have put a lot of pressure on it to deform the head like this and also crack the bolt around the hole for the fuel to go through.  Anyone have any other ideas or anyone have a similar bolt they want to sell?

 

The world would be a much better place if the word "pot metal" was erased from the dictionary. I can guarantee 100% that the pot metal lid is cracked and ready to break right off. The do make an aluminum alloy solder that can repair pot metal but it's no stronger than PC7 or JB weld and I suggest you use that. Take it from me, if there is any question about pot metal, the answer is "yes, it's broken".

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I left the outer tank to get painted but brought the rest home. The pot metal top doesn't look cracked in these pictures but I will inspect it closer.

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Mark, 

        From the twist in the banjo bolt, it appears that the threads held in the pot metal when someone tried to tighten the bolt.  I would suggest using a lot of never seize on the threads and then don't worry about it.  Run the bolt on the threads a few times dry to clean and chase the threads.  Use new copper asbestos gaskets or red fiber.  www.restorationstuff.com has the gaskets.  Also - get rid of the steel plugs and buy brass.   Hugh

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Maybe they tightened it so much because they didn't have the nice copper gaskets that you have. Use them.

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If you use copper seal rings, be sure to anneal them - even if they are new.

Heat them to red hot and quickly quench them in water. That will fully anneal them to full soft.

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18 hours ago, Mark Kikta said:

 

 

From this picture I can see you need to file the underside of the nut flatter.:

 

 

 

18 hours ago, Mark Kikta said:

 

deformed fuel line bolt and washer.jpg

 

 

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