Mark Kikta

1922 engine progress

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Recently on this thread and others there has been some discussion on manifold gaskets and proper installation.  On this thread I asked for advice on which direction is best for installing them on my 1922 6-cyl.  Today I found this quote from Fel-Pro gaskets on installing manifold gaskets.

 

When installing Fel-Pro exhaust manifold gaskets, if there is a smooth, metallic side and a composite side, the metallic side should be installed facing out, meaning toward the exhaust manifold. This smooth surface of the shiny side will allow the flange of the exhaust manifold to slide as it expands and contracts during heat cycling from engine operation.

 

Guess I answered my own question!  Copper side outwards!

Manifold gaskets.jpg

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Today I picked up my gas tank at the repair shop.  The tank has been coated inside with a red rubber like coating that they claim will last forever and will not break down from the ethanol.  No holes were found in the tank from corrosion so no repairs were required.  They did drill 3 holes in the back of the tank as access points to sandblast and coat the inside.  They welded 3 small fittings that could be accessed in the future if ever needed.  They will not be visible when the tank is installed unless you are underneath the car looking.  It looks like they did a great job, I'm very pleased.

Gas tank reworked.jpg

gas tank bottom reworked2.jpg

Gas Tank reworked rear fittings.jpg

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Mark:

 The contact person I sent the PM about. His first name is Bruce not Dave. The forum would not let me edit or post another message.

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Today I took my Marvel carburetor apart so I can clean it and rebuild it. I’m soaking all parts in carburetor cleaner overnight.  I was generally able to take most of the carb apart without any issues.  I did run across one major stumbling block however.  I unscrewed the large bowl next to the fuel adjustment so I could get to the screws holding the bottom plate onto the carb.  Unfortunately as you can see in the third picture, the heads/screwdriver slots on those two screws has been corroded away.  I guess I will try to cut a new slot in each with my dremel tool or maybe just cut the head off of the screws.  Anyway,  I need to get that bottom plate off to clean inside.  Just another challenge along the way.A65BDB91-81A3-4AC1-BBF5-3E58EBA67950.thumb.jpeg.0a3ae1e8eabab89cc8d18e9b4e0578e4.jpeg

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Mark :

 Did you get the Marvel service information from Terry? I do have a copy he sent me for the 1922.

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I would love to have a copy.  Ill pay you to make a copy for me.  I have a newer version but not the 1922 version.

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Today I managed to cut grooves in the heads of these two rusted screws and then got them out with a screwdriver.  I soaked my parts in carburetor cleaner and then tried out my new ultrasonic cleaner.  The parts came out great.  Unfortunately after cleaning all of the parts, I found a crack in the brass bowl on the bottom of the carb.  I think I have another one on a spare carb I bought online.  It doesn’t seem to be as heavy as the one that is cracked and might be a bit shorter. Hope it works ok.

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The 'bowl' referred to is what I believe is called a dashpot.  Mark has a 1922 model Buick.  I have a 1922 model Buick and from his photos it looks like we have the same carburetor on our engines.  I had a discussion with John Beatty some time back

about this particular Marvel unit.  It seems that the dashpot did not come on the carburetors until the 1923 models.  Our car was built later in the production year and quite possibly was equipped with the newer Marvel unit.  I feel very safe in saying

that our car has never been messed with.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Terry,

 

According to 1922 parts book,  the 1922 should have a carb with 10-47 stamped on it which is what I have.  So it is correct for 1922 at least when that book was printed.  

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This morning After overnight soaking in some liquid wrench, I was able to get the bottom plate off of the carburetor body with all the jets and air valve attached.  I inspected the tip of the high speed jet and it does not appear to have any cracks.  The air valve however is frozen solid so I’m putting this back in the can of carb cleaner for a while longer.  If this doesn’t free it up I soak it in something else.  I just don’t want to break any of those delicate parts.

 

I took Hugh’s advice and I soldered the cracked brass bowl on the inside and outside.  I could blow air through the crack before and it appears to be fixed now.  I also filled it with gasoline and it did not appear to leak.

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Mark:

 I will put the copy of the 1922 Marvel in the mail tomorrow.

 Hope these scans will help in the meantime.

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Larry,

Terry copies it for me earlier today and is mailing it to me tomorrow.  Thank you though.

 

You don’t need to copy it for me

Edited by Mark Kikta (see edit history)

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Apparently the air valve opens and closes too fast and the spring is too springy, so it needs a dash pot. Weird.

 

Now to figure out what this means for my car with no dash pot. Worse gas mileage? 

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The dash pot must not have been the right answer because it wasn’t around many years.

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