Brakes

[MickO]

Hi, I am a newbie after recently acquiring a Chrysler Kew Six, which i believe is essentially a Plymouth PE deluxe. It is a beatuful car and i am proud of my new addition to the garage. The car is mid 1934 no 2257834 which i believe was built in Detroit before being shipped to the UK for assembly. The car has been restored recently before i purchased it. I am starting to recommision the car. I have have brake and clutch issues. ( To begin with )

• No fluid in system and i found leaks at 3 of the four wheels at the back of the drums. On inspecting the master cylinder the reservoir appears very rusty which i would presume means ditch it for a new one. On looking at various options it woud seem that a replacement is straightforward but i am not sure if there is a specific one for right hand drive models even though the 3 anchor mounting bolts appear the same and the brake line comes out from below which would not seem to be any different for either left or right hand drive. 
• can you replace the bleeder bolts with bleeder screws to make bleeding easier, i see Chrysler 1263929 listed as a later replacement. 
• I need to get the brake drums off and want to know what is the easiest method and if there is any special tools etc, having taken many drums off in the past usually it is back off the shoe adjustment and whack with a mallet etc to shock them free, but not being familiar i want to do it correctly and not cause any damage, as maybe they are linked to the hub etc.
• It would appear that the wheel cylinders are specific to each wheel front and back, left and right, is this correct, something to do with stepped cylinders on the front.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

[keiser31]

Got a photo or two of your car? What wheels are you using? I would get a puller like this one for removal of the drums. Make sure it is not Made in China.

[JACK M]

 

 

[MickO]

Here is a few photos of wheels drums etc. (thats a serious looking puller Keiser31). The concern i had was, is the hub and drum seperate as i didnt want to be pulling using the wheel lug nuts which would be pulling on the hub as opposed to the drum, especially on the rear. Looking at the area og the wheel nuts it looks like that the drum is seperate from the hub, but i am not sure. if that is the case i need to find a way of pulling on just the drum.

[Spinneyhill]

Bleed nipples: you can replace the bolts with bleed nipples and leave them in place. But then they are not original. I made bleed nipples by taking a bolt the same as those in the cylinders, drilling right through it axially and enlarged the hole in the head to accept a piece of brake pipe. I put a double flare on a piece of brake pipe then cut off 20 mm or so of it and soldered it into the hole in the bolt. One bleed nipple, done.

 

The front hub and drum appear to be rivetted together: the rivets are between the wheel bolt holes. Thus the hub and drum should come off as one. Look after the wheel bearings; probably be best to clean them and repack.

 

The rear drum looks the same: drum rivetted to the hub. You will need a puller as @keiser31 showed. But remember, if you whack the end of the puller, you are hammering on the wheel bearings. Only hit the bone ends with the hammer. If it doesn't come off, wait. Come back later and tap the puller on the dog bone ends again. Loosen the nut a couple of turns only, so the drum doesn't go far when it comes free. The nut should be very tight, like 140 lb.ft = 190 N.m.

 

Yes, stepped cylinders are specific to side and front or rear. The larger end faces forward at each mounting and the larger cylinders are on the front. (assuming the cylinders are mounted at the top).

Edited January 20, 2019 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[MickO]

Thanks for the replies everyone, greatly appreciated. I will probably get new master cylinder and complete brake wheel cylinders all round. Then pull the hubs so i can be ready to replace brake parts as necessary. As NZ is right hand drive would you have any thoughts as to whether replacement master cylinder will work with both right and left hand drive vehicles, i amlooking at them online and it would appear that they will work for both, even though on ply33 site a different part no is given for both right and left hand drive. 

[Spinneyhill]

Rather than buy a new one, what about sleeving it? Then the problem doesn't arise. I can't comment on how the brakes are set up RHD vs LHD, but if you post some pictures maybe we can see what might be different. Where is the m/c mounted?

 

On my car 1930 DC-8 the master cylinder and supply tank assembly have only one part number. The only LHD and RHD parts are push rod end pins and their cotter pins. The brake pedals are different as are the pull-back springs and the spring brackets, plus the brake pedal bracket and shaft.

Edited January 21, 2019 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[61polara]

You will never get the rear drums of without that puller.  Search this site and you will find some great photo's and posts about pulling this type drum.

[keiser31]

It IS a serious puller because it needs to be. NOTICE: I leave the nut on a few threads so the drum does not fly off when it finally gives....

Edited January 21, 2019 by keiser31 (see edit history)