Takis

1968 GS/Skylark Electrical Windows Connectivity Issue

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Hello Everyone Again!  This is a great forum, and I appreciate everyone's input.

 

I hope you can assist me with this.. This is an electrical issue with the driver's side 4 window power up and down switching.

 

I bought both after market window switch 4 windows and also the interior housing that has all the wires..  From taking apart the previous stuff, the one housing plugs into the other...  

 

The issue now is that when I plug in the outside switch housing, the switch, say to the front driver side window, intermittently works.  I have to hold the back portion og both housings tight where the RED wire is on the housing tight together to get things to work.  I am pretty confident it is not the splicing and connectivity of the wires.

 

At this time, I have not connected ALL wires.. just the power wire and the 2 wires the make the driver's side window go up and down.

 

My question is:  Is there  some way to lock the two housings together?  At the time the one housing simply has 'steel' leads that plug into the other...  I have not placed anything around them, for now to get better connectivity.  So, my question is.. is there any special trick to connecting the two housing.?

 

 

I have placed a picture below...  It is a little hard to see where the two housing connect to each other.  I also place the wire harness housing by itself..  and a smaller picture of the outside window switch.

 

IMG_1702.thumb.JPG.cfab8d381dff0dfc88bf3e107490cabc.JPG

 

1072300341_IMG_1689(1).thumb.JPG.237463bbb2cd16cb657058a71d911694.JPG

 

There are 8 prongs that go into the switch, but not all the way through...

 

power window switch 58-69 Chevy Pontiac Buick Olds GS 442 cutlass GTO Chevelle

 

 

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Would a dielectric type of grease like this do the trick??    in other word place the grease on the pin connectors that go into the harness.. then the slight movement with the connections will be assisted with the grease to always make the connection?

Lubricant, Grease, Nyogel - 50g Tube

A silica thickened, heavy viscosity, synthetic hydrocarbon grease intended for mechanical and electromechanical components that require a heavy level of damping. Used to reduce free motion and to quiet operating noise of loosely-fitting components.

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There is a cap that goes on the long pin of the switch.  The long pin is the only one that should protrude through the plate with the wires.  I don't have a picture of this cap but it is a flat cap in light blue color and it twists onto the exposed end of that long pin, holding the two pieces together and protecting the long pin from possibly shorting out on the metal inside door panel. This cap was used for at least a decade, and you should be able to find one on just about any GM car from the late 60's and I even found them on the back door window switchs of my '92 Wagon. 

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I haven't seen that cap on any of the cars I've worked on recently.  I know what you're referring to, though.  I can't recall what it was on. 

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In most cases I dont think its needed. Another option might be to use some small eyeglass screwdrivers to try and close the gap of the receptacles in the wiring portion of the switch so that the pins will be a tighter fit. 

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But I would not put the grease since the pin makes intermittent contact. The thick grease may have the effect of preventing contact.

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Thanks for input...  First, the long pin you are referring to, does not protrude through the wire harness - again, this is an after market wire harness I bought.  All 9 pins go into the wire harness...  out of the 9, the one is the positive, while the other two make connections to the up and down of each window.   I may need to just concentrate on the positive wire making a good connection.

 

The dielectric grease I bought is similar to the below link...   So, do not put this type of grease on it???  I understand the main issue is to make sure the connectors lock in.  Should I wrap each node with aluminum foil?  and push in???  When it gets warmer in the future, I will go and work on this again...

 

https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/lubricant-grease/ags-single-use-pouch-connector-protect/868167_0_0

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On 1/16/2019 at 9:26 AM, JohnD1956 said:

Another option might be to use some small eyeglass screwdrivers to try and close the gap of the receptacles in the wiring portion of the switch so that the pins will be a tighter fit. 

 

John suggests what I was thinking.  I also agree that grease isn't a good idea, as it will only make it easier for the plug to loosen.  It's hard to see from the photos, but I have had good luck in the past coming up with 'creative' solutions using nylon wire ties (aka: 'zip ties') to hold plug/socket connections together.

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Thanks everyone for the advice..  At this time, I will try the zip ties approach.. I will fill you in and place pictures after the weather gets warmer.

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