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1956 Cadillac Biarritz: to restore or not?


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  • 2 weeks later...

Parallel to the assembly and body prepare, there were many things to organize, go to the plater, discuss with the man doing the upholstery and repairing what people sold me as "like new" parts. One good example is the front bow. The one on the car was full of holes; I looked for a good one. I got an offer from a very well known convertible parts supplier; according to him, it was really like new, ready to install. OK, deal done, let ship that marvel!
When it came, the front bow was indeed very gook looking. Ah! at least something I can store until it's needed. However, when I was looking at the part, I heard some strange noises inside. By shaking it, it was clear: this thing was repaired and bondo was traveling inside. What do do? well, have a look "under the rock" which means: I began to scratch the paint to see what was under. It was not nice: bondo over the rust. The whole part was maybe a little better than the one I had already, but not much. What next? I separated the halves and I began to weld patches...then sandblasted, paint of the inside and welded again. As I was at this work, I repaired the bow which was on the car; I sold it later, but I was confident that my work was first quality, not like the one I bought. By the way, this supplier is since "dead" for me.
The pictures are showing the "like new" bow.

 

75 front bow.jpg

76 Disassembled bow.jpg

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The "car" was delivered to me without the hard boot. By chance, I could find one in good shape. New paint was needed and the leather on the side was no more good. I had to think how to attach it again to the plastic part; I found a solution with small screws. If needed, I can take the leather away without problem.
The hard boot was repainted by the body shop, I did not the work myself.

77 Hard boot.jpg

78 Hard boot details.jpg

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Another great day: the car is coming out of the garage under its own power! I had many trouble the day I started the engine, all created by myself...I believe an observer that day would have seen a funny cartoon:
the engine is starting, fine! I go under the hood and ran back to stop the engine: fuel is coming out the carbs! the screws from the air horn were loose, I had forgotten to tighten them...
New start: Oh my god! there is no oil in the transmission! OK, some liters after, I start the engine again. After a while, I see a lake of oil under the engine! What was wrong this time? Oh ! I forgot to tighten the lid of the oil filter...At least, I'm now sure that oil is coming there!
Then, the engine ran good, without too much problem. They would come later. Stay tuned!

79 First time out.jpg

80 Under its own power.jpg

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Problems!?! - I think we have all been there - I know I was, in my early days with cars! As we get older, we have more patience and don't rush to get the engine going as soon as possible. My younger friends and acquaintances,  who see the Humberette, are surprised that I did not even try to start the engine when I first got it. It is only now that the body is at the trimmers that I have started work on the engine before even attempting to start it.

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It would be time to discuss a little bit about chrome...The subject was already scratched with the Sabre wheels; however, such a vehicle is generous with chrome. You may imagine that chromed parts were not in good shape on this car. I had to replace many of them; for example, the center bar of the rear bumper was not bad looking; once removed, I saw that it was eaten by the rust behind the small bumper guards. The pot metal parts were in a desolate shape, badly pitted.
At that time, there was an advertiser in Hemmings who claimed he can restore such parts. During a vacation in Florida, I took many parts with me (next to the brake booster) and we paid a visit to that company. I left some money there and all the parts...
A friend of us, located in Florida was also involved with the shipping of the parts back to Switzerland.
Most of the parts were good, some were not. Something surprised me: the parts were much heavier as before. When I tried to assemble chromed parts together, like the fake air inlets on the quarter panel, they would not fit anymore. The teeth on those parts had also a drop at their ends, they were not usable as is. Then, I began to have a good look at the back side of that specific part and I noted that I could peel the "chrome". Then I understood the "secret" of that job: when received, the chrome is electrolytically removed; the copper plating stay untouched. Then the parts are sprayed or dipped in a conductive primer; they are probably sanded after that to have a regular surface. Then they get a very thick layer of copper which is polished and then chromed. All those layers add thickness to each part and the copper add the weight. I measured the thickness of the copper: 0.3mm (appr. 0.012") The first layer is almost as thick, so each surface is about 0.5 mm thicker (0.02")! No wonder that they cannot fit together! A part alone on the body is absolutely not a problem, but when 2 chromed parts have to be assembled together, you have to find a solution. I began to grind the back of my new chromed parts, removed the extra material until they would fit. Some parts were not good: as mentioned before, the "teeth" parts on the side were grotesk, either I bought other ones or I peeled the chrome/copper. The instrument body was also not good. I did also a strip-tease of that part. Then, on all parts which were now as bad as before, I began to remove the original cooper by sanding as well as a little bit of pot metal until the surface was smooth. Then, I gave them to a Swiss plater who did the polishing and plating.
One part on the car was broken: one of the molding on top of the rear fenders. Despite intensive search, I could not find such a part. (Some years ago, a welding technique was developped for pot metal, but it was too late) What to do? As I did for the Brougham for a missing part, I took contact with a small foundry. They told me that if they take the broken part "as is" there will be a shrinkage and the part will not fit on the body. I had to cut the molding at the elbow and increase the lenght at each half (were it was cut) with bondo. To reduce the costs, I ordered 6 or 8 pairs; I could sell some; I still have one pair in case...
Once cast in bronze, the parts had to be silver soldered together, adjusted to the body, filed, sanded, machined and...plated. The result is very good. I had an original part plated in Florida; as it would not fit the way I liked, I used another part of my creation. The original part is still on stock, ready to sell!
Both pictures below are showing the bronze parts machined, but before their surface is smoothed.

81 Tail fin molding, bronze.jpg

82 Tail fin molding, bronze 1.jpg

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As I wrote, I still had an original tail molding for a long time. Some years ago, I sold it to somebody in Sweden or Finland after explaining the process and that one of my home made molding would be a better deal. Sometime after, he wrote to say that he should have do the choice I suggested.

83 Tail fin molding 1.jpg

84 Tail fin molding.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

At the end of august 1998, the car was ready to go to the paint shop. They had an hard time to improve the surfaces. Of course, as it was not urgent, they did not work on a regular basis on the car.
It came back with the same small truck early November. Now is really looking like a car!

It was a pleasure o install the firs chromed parts; one day, I got again out at the same place when I took the pictures with the body in primer. With the time, most parts went back to the car.

85 To the body shop.jpg

86 To the body shop.jpg

87 And back!.jpg

88 Out again.jpg

89 Reassembly.jpg

90 Dashboard, like new.jpg

91 Engine view.jpg

Edited by Roger Zimmermann
Comment and picture added (see edit history)
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The assembly of the fresh painted body was not done in a few days. Anyway, the difficulties were overcome and in June 2000 I did the first test drive. Oh, not too far away: the car was not yet complete and it was not licensed. I took again a risk: I installed the license plates from my other Cadillacs. In case of a police control, he would have read "Cadillac" on the papers and it was a Cadillac! Maybe it would not have been so easy in case of an accident as VINs are compared with the paperwork. Anyway, the region I'm located is rural and traffic not important.
That day, I did some picture I don't find anymore with one exception. You will see that the roof is closed, but the soft material not yet installed. The installation of that roof was a story for itself: the man who did the seats and other trim parts did also the installation of the roof. He did it during wintertime, with a too low temperature. Therefore, he could not stretch the rear window; its appearance was awful. The rest of the top was not bad but, for one reason, the man was not satisfied and he began to remove it at the front bow. And, what happened? He damaged it! He apologized and said he would replace the material at his own expenses. OK, I ordered another roof. When the roof arrived, the man began again its assembly. At the back of the body, the trim stick is assembled with screws. At one place only, a shorter screw must be used and the man managed to use a long one. Result: the screw damaged the rear fender/paint. This last event, added to the other ones he created turned me creasy. I  took back from him the key of the garage and sent the man home. At that point, I decided to install the top myself. It is a chore, but it can be done!
By the way, because of the mishapen of the man, both rear fenders had to be repainted...

92 First drive.jpg

93 First drive.jpg

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I have never been a great fan of large American cars. Your posts, and the work you have done to restore yours, are making me appreciate them more and more. I am enjoying your posts. The last photo shows a big difference to earlier photos, when you were dealing with all the 'golden body lightener' (rust)!

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Once the car was ready, it was time to enjoy it. Unfortunately, it did not went that way: I had trouble with the engine: when it was cold or just warm, no problem. I could drive a long distance, as long as the speed was high enough. If I wanted to restart the engine after one hour, he would come immediately, but he had no power. One day, the engine even stalled while driving at about 50 miles/hour!
I believed that it was vapor lock and all my efforts to solve the problem were made in that direction. I even let install an electric fuel pump, without much improvement. 2 of my friends owning '56 Eldorados had no problem with them; I had myself no difficulties with my '56 Sedan de Ville; just this damned Biarritz was a nightmare.
In 2006, I had enough. I asked a garage in the region if they would help me to find a solution. as they deal mostly with Packards, I was sure they could help.
At the end, they found that the intake manifold was sucking false air, then  the new ignition coil was bad as well as the battery! Since the repair, I drove a long distance under a difficult situation without problem. Now, I can really enjoy it! Really?

During the restoration work, I bought a Pertronix ignition system. One year, when I took the car out of its hibernation, I had a similar condition as when the intake manifold was warped. Same problem again? I asked around if that issue could come back; among them I asked Daytona products. I got a very interesting detailed answer; something was interesting. “It may happens that cars fitted with a Pertronix system may develop a similar condition” The next few days, I installed again point and condenser: the engine ran never that well! I immediately throw away that electronic system and never thought at it again.

Some pictures from the finished car are attached.

1 redim.jpg

2 redim.jpg

3 redim.jpg

4 redim.jpg

5 redim.jpg

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Not too surprised reading about your Petronix issues. I belong to the VCCA (vintage Chevy club) and personally own a 31’ 4dr sedan that I restored. I run the original ignition system with 6volts as designed. I have read many horror stories of others changing out their ignition to Petronix only to change them back after many problems. A good set of points adjusted correctly with good condenser and coil works wonderfully in these old cars even though some believe it’s old technology.

 

By the way, the Caddy is beautiful and it sounds like Mike is finding a soft spot for that big American car!

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17 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

Unfortunately, not so detailed as Mike's thread!

 

I am not surprised! If I had to write an article about a car I finished restoring 19-years ago I would find it impossible, let alone to write it in another language. Thanks again for sharing it with us.

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Thanks Chris! Yes, I still have it; however, if somebody is coming and want to buy one of the 2 cars I still have (this Biarritz and the '57 Brougham), I would let it go without regret. The work on those cars was what interested me at the first place; to drive them with our crowded roads is not always pleasant; this is the reason why I put between 100 and 500 miles on them each year. I drove much more in the eighties when my '56 Sedan de Ville (now sold) was ready. I was younger too!

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  • 1 year later...

😀Hi roger!

You have done great job and used huge amount of hours in your garage, searching parts and know-how around the world!

I just bought a same kind of "jobsite" as your -56 Biarritz was ...

The best thing in my project car is, that all the parts seem to be there.  (some of them useless junk) but it has been parked and left waiting "something" for 20...30 years (rough guess)... And the other side of the coin is, that when nothing has been restored, there is no payment of things like "resale red" kind of special delicatezzzies...

 

Do you have parts left over from your  -56 Biarritz project, or knowledge of good source for model specific parts in Europe?

 

Best Regards,

 

Kari

 

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Hi Kari

Thanks for your comments! Yes, as you saw, I had about 10 years to restore that car. Some cash was also needed...Al was done before Internet, complicating the matter, but, as you could see, it was possible!

I still have some parts from that project. I bought them maybe 20 or 30 years ago, when the exchange rate was not se favorable for me. I know no place in Europe selling parts for this model. Of course, there are some parts resellers, especially in Germany and countries like Sweden, but I never search there for my needs. 

I'm listing below what I have in excess with prices in Swiss Francs. Depending where you are living, you have to calculate in your own currency.

1 Sabre hubcap medallion, repro CHF 62.-

1 hood emblem, plastic, repro 230.-

1 base for the hood emblem, repro 140.-

V for the trunk and hood, used 40.- each. If my memory is good,  several to choose.

1 emblem for the seat, repro 215.-

2 original back-up lenses, way from perfect, 25.- each

1 NOS windshield wiper transmission 130.- This a transmission for an early '56 car, with a small pulley. Later cars had a larger pulley.

1 glove box lock with key, repro 135.-

1 molding for the top of rear fenders, made in bronze as original ones were not available. Must be adjusted, polished and chromed  180.-

1 molding for the top of rear fenders, not assembled (they were made in 2 pieces) 140.-

1 windshield washer jar, repro 75.-

1 RH front bumper end, rechromed 400.-

1 fog lamp lens, NOS 140.-

4 or 5 NOS bulbs 1044 for the fog lamps 48.- (difficult to find)

 

I may have other parts I did not listed; the storage room for my cars and parts is rather large...

 

I may have some mechanical parts; they are however easy to find except maybe crankshaft or cylinder heads (I have 2)

The above prices will seem rather excessive, but they include the cost of the part(s), the shipping costs and customs when I bought them. I may however be ready to adjust prices if I have a reasonable offer. For some parts I have pictures.

 

Have a good time with your restoration!

 

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7 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

Hi Kari

Thanks for your comments! Yes, as you saw, I had about 10 years to restore that car. Some cash was also needed...Al was done before Internet, complicating the matter, but, as you could see, it was possible!

I still have some parts from that project. I bought them maybe 20 or 30 years ago, when the exchange rate was not se favorable for me. I know no place in Europe selling parts for this model. Of course, there are some parts resellers, especially in Germany and countries like Sweden, but I never search there for my needs. 

I'm listing below what I have in excess with prices in Swiss Francs. Depending where you are living, you have to calculate in your own currency.

1 Sabre hubcap medallion, repro CHF 62.-

1 hood emblem, plastic, repro 230.-

1 base for the hood emblem, repro 140.-

V for the trunk and hood, used 40.- each. If my memory is good,  several to choose.

1 emblem for the seat, repro 215.-

2 original back-up lenses, way from perfect, 25.- each

1 NOS windshield wiper transmission 130.- This a transmission for an early '56 car, with a small pulley. Later cars had a larger pulley.

1 glove box lock with key, repro 135.-

1 molding for the top of rear fenders, made in bronze as original ones were not available. Must be adjusted, polished and chromed  180.-

1 molding for the top of rear fenders, not assembled (they were made in 2 pieces) 140.-

1 windshield washer jar, repro 75.-

1 RH front bumper end, rechromed 400.-

1 fog lamp lens, NOS 140.-

4 or 5 NOS bulbs 1044 for the fog lamps 48.- (difficult to find)

 

I may have other parts I did not listed; the storage room for my cars and parts is rather large...

 

I may have some mechanical parts; they are however easy to find except maybe crankshaft or cylinder heads (I have 2)

The above prices will seem rather excessive, but they include the cost of the part(s), the shipping costs and customs when I bought them. I may however be ready to adjust prices if I have a reasonable offer. For some parts I have pictures.

 

Have a good time with your restoration!

 

Hi Roger!

 

You have some interesting parts indeed!

I really like your style to make your own castings from more durable material!

Sometimes old method is better, than many new ones...

Do we have a way in this forum to change private messages?

I have an idea to make an offer of some parts of your collection.

 

Regards,

 

Kari

 

 

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