Smartin

Garnet Red 57 Roadmaster 75

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As a follow-up to John's post, I also nabbed a few shots of the '57 Roadmaster coupe displayed at the Portland Nationals, 2014:

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@Centurion Well, Ed's pictures makes the car look a totally different color.  But it is a beautiful combination!  

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Both stunning vehicles. Really like the color combinations. Wagons only had 2 tone below the sweepspear, but it still looks fantastic with that paint job.

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Tomorrow, this car is being used for a photo shoot  for a pinup model, and some vintage stuff with my wife.  So I had to brave the crappy weather today to clean off the blue crap from the white walls and hose off the extra scuzz that has been on the car since I brought it home.  It sure would be nice if we had a sunny day once in a while!

 

Looking at the photos, I don't like how high the rear sits.  It has coil-over shocks, and I'm sure that is a contributing factor.  I was in a hurry to get the car on the ground when I swapped the driveshaft, so that project got sidelined.

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I told the exhaust guy I wanted it QUIET.  He obliged.

 

 

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It went very well!....here are a few shots.

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Great shots and wonderful find, Adam!

 

I put new original spec springs in my 58 Roadmaster and it sat up a bit upon installation.

(Eaton-Detroit Spring)

However,  they they settled in to correct ride height after driving a couple hundred miles.

Maybe, PO put new ones in....?

 

Glad you made it run silently.......nothing like a well tuned Buick , idling in the driveway......and all you really notice is the gentle

whine of the DynaFlow......

 

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Since the Easter show in Forest Park is coming up...on Easter...I need to get my butt in gear and get this car ready.  I took the carb off to clean it out and put a rebuild kit in it.  Everything looked really good inside, a little dirty but nothing serious.  I did find out why the car was impossible to get started without me manually engaging the choke.  After putting the carb back together, I realized the linkage at the top plate was on backwards.  I hadn't touched it when I took it apart, so it was like that before.  After turning it upside down, it works as intended.  The car starts and runs great sitting in the garage now.  I'm going to try to tackle rebuilding the master/booster tomorrow so I can have a working brake system.

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Halfway there..

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Done.  Need to I have family time...might be able to get it back installed this evening.  Probably not, though 🙄

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Rebuild fail.  Kind of...I'm not sure really.  I installed and bled everything.  Still has the same crappy pedal.  I can stand on the brakes and lock up the rears....hmmmm.  So, obviously we have an issue with fronts not holding.  I pulled the front right drum and found out what I suspected.  The shoes are contaminated with grease.  I can only assume the other side is the same.  So, new shoes and wheel seals on the way.  Also another master rebuild kit coming.  I'm going to rebuild the one in the parts car to replace this one if it still sucks.  No wonder the previous owner told me the brakes were garbage.  Under 3 weeks until the Easter show...let's see if I can make it happen.

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New front brake shoes, repacked bearings, and new seals today...cleaned and scuffed drums.  No change in pedal feel.  So, off came the booster/master from the parts car.  I spent a good portion of the day cleaning and prepping/rebuilding that.  I installed it and bled all four corners for a LONG time to make sure I didn't miss any air bubbles.  Brakes are marginally better, and I can lock up the front left wheel when I really stand on it.  I think I'm going to let that fly for a while and see if the new shoes in front break in better.

 

In other news, the car is really running well.  Starts right up, sits at medium idle until I kick it down, and off I go. 

 

I think I can put this car to bed for the time being...I have a black car to paint...and I think the owner is getting antsy to see some progress 😁

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Did you measure the ID of the drums?  I just went through this with a different vehicle.  No matter what I adjusted, the pedal felt soft.  The drums were clean, but had ~250,000 miles on them.  So I figured, "What the hell.'  The difference is night and day.

 

You might also try pulling a drum and setting a shoe inside to see how much contact they make -- or pulling the drum and looking at the wear pattern on the shoes..

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I didn't measure them, but didn't see anything alarming that would make me think twice.  I've verified the mileage on the car is in the 46k range...hoping these are the original drums.

 

You mention checking the shoe against the drum.  I did that today before I installed the shoes.  They are VERY slightly smaller diameter than the drum...which is why I'm hoping some miles will settle them in enough to start working better.

 

I have a pair of drums from a 60 sitting on the shelf...I may swap them if I get bored, or run out of other ideas.  At this point, I should probably start replacing hoses and checking wheel cylinders.

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Here is my contraption to keep a hold of the booster nut inside the car while I used a strap wrench to twist the booster off from outside.  I tried using a chisel to turn the nut first, but no go.  

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Posted (edited)

When you get a chance, try plugging off the brake light switch with a brass plug and bleeding again. A cheap one I bought from Kanter had issues with the switch that gave me a spongey pedal, like it had trapped something inside of it. Before getting rid of it altogether, I replaced the switch with one from NAPA and the pedal feel got firmer. It was even more firm when I plugged it and went to a push button. 

My most recent exchange was a leaky wheel cylinder, where upon inspection, the cylinder had pitted around the piston and was letting minute amounts of fluid past the piston. The leak was barely noticeable since the rubber boot did a good job of containing it, but after chasing a weak pedal for a couple weeks, I found the culprit. 

 

Your mufflers sound nice! I just got around to seeing the video. The exhaust guys must get sad when you ask for quiet, instead of the Flowmaster/Magnaflow 2.5" exhaust. How hard some places push, you'd think they were getting commission for the mufflers sold. What did they stick under there, Walkers?

Edited by Beemon (see edit history)

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Cool, thanks for the insight. 

 

I don't know what he put on for mufflers.  He's a real old school guy that may not be around much longer, but says he buys only quality stuff...no garbage.  System should last a very long time.

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Well, the extended test drive to the show today went fairly well.  I am going to need to address the temperature creeping up and not wanting to come back down.  I'm pretty sure I'll need to flush the system and replace the thermostat.  I found out the AC WORKS!  Ha!  Clock works, too.  I feel the car wanting to wander a little bit, but I think most of it is natural with the bias ply tires.  It was happy on the highway, though.  I just need to work on the temperature issue before OKC.

 

Brakes are still not happy.  I bought hoses for it, so that will be the next spot I work on.

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My Special did that same heating / not cooling issue way back and changing the thermostat and flushing the rad didn't cure it. I eventually had to bite the bullet and re-core it and increased it to a three core which today keeps her running normally with the 180 degree thermostat with minimal raising in city traffic.

I hope you have success with flushing as it is the easiest effort to try but be prepared...

 

She sure is a beauty and is worth the efforts!

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Posted (edited)

Try a thermostatic fan clutch.  It worked beautifully on our Caballero.  For long runs, with air, I added a temporary electric fan in front of the radiator.  The electric was necessary for long stop lights.

Edited by Caballero2 (see edit history)

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