Smartin

Garnet Red 57 Roadmaster 75

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Nice  Thanks for sharing the photo. 

 

I got the car off the trailer today and investigated the trans problem a bit.  It will not go into park at all.  And it is making a gear-like noise when the car is pushed around.  I jacked up the car and removed the shift linkage, made sure it was in park all the way, and the linkage still lined up perfectly.  So it's not that.  I removed the inspection cover and all looks good in there.  It looks like this is a pretty major mechanical problem inside the transmission.  It will have to wait until I can get it in one of the garages so I can yank it out and send it to my transmission guy.  Bummer...my hopes of an easy fix have vaporized. 😐

 

I did try to start the car again, and it was making the same gear skipping noise, like it wasn't quite engaging a sprocket.  Oddly enough, the speedometer was moving.  So something was moving inside there at hte tailshaft.  I hope the splines aren't stripped in the yoke or driveshaft.  Although, I do have a complete parts car sitting in the yard.........

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If it's like the 56 there is a second adjustment of the linkage inside the transmission pan.  I have never done it myself.  But if I read it right, there are two levers that sit side by side, with a bolt at one end that allows them to be spread apart for a fine adjustment.  IT sounds to me like maybe that bolt came undone if it's the same as the '56.  This is on the side of the valve body so it may be accessible with just the cost of a trans pan gasket. 

 

However the speedometer moving with out the car going does sound like a second problem.  Maybe someone pulled the drive shaft out of the housing to allow it to be moved around?

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Maybe I’ll drop the pan before I blow the car apart to remove the transmission.

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49 minutes ago, Smartin said:

Maybe I’ll drop the pan before I blow the car apart to remove the transmission.

Sounds like a good idea.  At the least, you’ll know if there are any chunks in there.

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Regarding my post last night, The section of the manual that I am referring to is  5-23, Assembly of Dynaflow Transmission From Major Parts and Units ,  sub section "g".  It is page 209 in the 56 manual.  It deals with the control valve which is on the bottom of the Valve and Servo body.  This adjustment is made after the parking pawl is in, and two things are mentioned that may be relevant. 

 

In the few paragraphs before section "g" it is mentioned that there are two sized bolts for the valve body.  1/4 " with a final torque of 11-15 ft, and 5/16th bolts with a final torque of 15-20ft.  In addition, there is one copper washer which goes on a specific bolt (#10)  in the sequence.  Incorrect assembly may result in binding of the control valve.  

 

I imagine the gear clicking you hear is the parking pawl just a tad out of adjustment.  And a stuck control valve in drive may be why the trans was  turning when you started the car. 

 

 

Edited by JohnD1956 (see edit history)
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16 hours ago, Smartin said:

Oddly enough, the speedometer was moving.

There is probably nothing wrong with the transmission!  Mine did that when an axle shaft broke...look first at the driveshaft or axle.

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16 hours ago, Smartin said:

Nice  Thanks for sharing the photo. 

 

I got the car off the trailer today and investigated the trans problem a bit.  It will not go into park at all.  And it is making a gear-like noise when the car is pushed around.  I jacked up the car and removed the shift linkage, made sure it was in park all the way, and the linkage still lined up perfectly.  So it's not that.  I removed the inspection cover and all looks good in there.  It looks like this is a pretty major mechanical problem inside the transmission.  It will have to wait until I can get it in one of the garages so I can yank it out and send it to my transmission guy.  Bummer...my hopes of an easy fix have vaporized. 😐

 

I did try to start the car again, and it was making the same gear skipping noise, like it wasn't quite engaging a sprocket.  Oddly enough, the speedometer was moving.  So something was moving inside there at hte tailshaft.  I hope the splines aren't stripped in the yoke or driveshaft.  Although, I do have a complete parts car sitting in the yard.........

Adam,

 

You should post about this in a separate thread, I bet you will get more diagnostic advice / help that way. 

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A broken axle or driveshaft won’t make noise with the transmission in park, though.

 

I will start another thread.

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I shuffled a few cars around today to get this one (hopefully) fixed and back on the road ASAP.  Here is the noise I’m hearing.  It’s coming from the rear u-joint area I think.  I’ll try to have it taken apart sometime this weekend to confirm.

 

 

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Well here we go.  I couldn't wait, and my plans for this evening never materialized...rear end is out and driveshaft is off.  I knew there was an issue when I could turn the driveshaft and the wheels didn't spin.

 

The female splines on the driveshaft that slide over the splines on the rear end are almost completely ground off.

 

I just hope this is the only issue.

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Wow.  That there's your problem!  I wonder how that could have happened...neutral drops in the high school parking lot? 

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Compared to a tranny rebuild, wouldn't you consider this to be good news?  And I don't know (and it's none of my business), but I would hope that the discount you got on the purchase for the presumptive blown transmission will more than cover this repair.

 

For a low budget fix, try a couple of wraps of Teflon tape around the splines and shove it back together. :D 

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Absolutely...that’s assuming there isn’t another problem lurking after I reassemble it.

 

I hope I can cobble the parts car back together enough to move it around the property after I swap these driveshafts.  I may have to get creative 😁

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I'm going to rehash a few photos I posted in another thread so I can keep them documented with this car.  Torque tube was unpainted from the factory, along with several paint stripes - yellow, blue, and red.

 

I'm still on the fence on whether I will be trying to preserve this, or paint it all black, and recreate the stripes.  I don't think I can get the other parts of the rear end assembly this clean, so I will probably go with black.

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My torque tube (1940) was painted semi-glass black as was expected for that year.  Mine also had a red stripe around the circumference of the tube, located near the carrier.  The red stripe was the same paint used on the axle hubs to indicate the rear end gear ratio. I've seen several 1940 torque tubes and all were painted but only one had the gear ratio stripe remaining.  I guess we need to give more credit to manufacturing inconsistencies don't we?

 

Your torque tube doesn't appear to have any surface rust on it; that's odd.  I would be giving way to wild speculation to understand what you've got.  Are you creating a show car for judging purposes?  That goal would certainly play into your choice of direction.

 

You appear to have two different color stripes.  If one was gear ratio, would the other be to identify the transmission?  I like the little rubber grommet on the emergency brake guide.  In 1940 Buick used a rubber hose inserted through the hole with wound wire crimped on each side of the guide to hold it in place.

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I'm going with black, and recreating the stripes.

 

It does appear in the photos that there is no surface rust, but it is cakes pretty bad mostly on the top side where the undercoating was not covering.  I couldn't get it to look right, so I am painting it semi-gloss black.  I will paint the pumpkin primer red as it came.

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I ordered tires from Summit since they have free shipping.  Those will go to the tire store tomorrow to get mounted. 

 

I have the two pieces of torque tube and rear end painted ready to be assembled.  I still need to spray some red primer on the differential.

 

The parts car is now in position to have the rear end ripped out.  I need to blow this thing apart anyway...might as well start now.

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Lovely car...what a find.

 

My fave is a 1960, I used to own one, but this is very nice.

 

Glad you found the problem with the transmission so quickly.

 

Adam..

Edited by Alfa (see edit history)

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On 1/23/2019 at 8:41 AM, Smartin said:

I'm going with black, and recreating the stripes.

 

It does appear in the photos that there is no surface rust, but it is cakes pretty bad mostly on the top side where the undercoating was not covering.  I couldn't get it to look right, so I am painting it semi-gloss black.  I will paint the pumpkin primer red as it came.

Did you find evidence of red primer on the pumpkin?

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After nearly a full day of shopping (sigh), I tackled the parts car and went as far as I could go before having to clean up and get ready to go out this evening.  I was able to remove the rear end/tube, extract propeller shaft, reinstall other shaft, and reinstall the rear in the car.  I will tighten everything back up tomorrow when I have some time and daylight, since I am working outside in the driveway for this.

 

So, the prop shaft that came out of the parts car is in great shape.  Splines are greased really well and u-joint has zero slop.  They look slightly different, as seen in photos.  I believe the one in the "good" car has been replaced at one point.  Hmmm...although the bad shaft did seem to lock into the parts car rear ok.  I made sure it was all the way in so it would reach as much of the spline surface area as possible.    Maybe I'll get lucky and be able to drive this car around the yard as much as I need to.

 

I'll try to get the good car back together and the new tires mounted.  I got them back from the shop today and they were fighting them all day yesterday.  I figured they would, with how they were packed.  He said they left them in the sun and a heater blowing on them all day.  $60 to mount them, though...can't complain.  It looks like tomorrow or Monday will be the only good days to wash that blue crap off, with the temperature dropping like a rock this week.

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