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Advice / input on buying a late 20's - early 30's car


Brooklyn Beer

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Love the Franklin and always wtd one of those air cooled cars. Will say parts arent that easy to get, but your car looks to be very complete and in nice shape.

also not much of a mkt for resale, if that matters. So many Franklins for sale and not enough caretakers. they are reasonably cheap to buy. Very well made cars.............. from Syracuse NY>

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4 hours ago, mercer09 said:

So many Franklins for sale and not enough caretakers. They are reasonably cheap to buy. Very well made cars...

 

Here is the link to Franklins for sale at the website

of the H. H. Franklin Club.  There are 3 good-looking ones

within Brooklyn's price range:

 

http://www.franklincar.org/forsale/#carsforsale

 

 

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I don't know if anything that I have to say will strike a chord, but decisions that I made many years ago have help define who I am, and what I own. I own a number of cars, from all eras, but when it comes to the years you are interested in, it is all Studebaker and Pierce Arrow. I was a Studebaker owner before I became interested in the "Classic Era" cars. That was more then fifty years ago, so it was easy to slide into the cars that I chose to own. 

 

I'm not trying to sell you on either of my choices, even though I think that they would be a good choice. It's the independent car companies that I would urge you to consider. From styling to engineering innovation, it was often the independents that led the way during this period. Ask yourself if owning a car that you can take to any cruise night, or car show, where you will find other similar cars and owners, with the same interests that you have, is what you want, or whether you willing to tell the story of what you have, over and over again. I made that choice so many years ago and never looked back. Showing, driving and sharing some of the knowledge that I have picked up, over the years, and the eyes that have been opened, has been an opportunity that I wouldn't have missed for the world. For me it's always been important to be willing to answer a question without coming off as a no-it-all. There has never been the need to search out an audience, because real car people really want to understand. It's not always easy, because telling the story can interfere with enjoying the car show, but it's an obligation that I don't take lightly. Good luck, I laud you in your choice of era, now just choose what suites you best.-Bill

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4 hours ago, John_S_in_Penna said:

 

Here is the link to Franklins for sale at the website

of the H. H. Franklin Club.  There are 3 good-looking ones

within Brooklyn's price range:

 

http://www.franklincar.org/forsale/#carsforsale

 

 

 

WoW!!!     The $15k (this 1929 is a bargain IMO) and $25k (1931 the dash is very similar to a Chrysler 77) Franklins are just wonderful.

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Franklins are air cooled cars which would have me question one where I live because in my part of TX summer comes in around May 1st and mid 90's stick around June through September.  Upper 90's - 100+ in August every day. So I would be curious to hear from anyone about how these cars handle heat. Even after dark our lows in July might be 85.

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8 minutes ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

Franklins are air cooled cars which would have me question one where I live because in my part of TX summer comes in around May 1st and mid 90's stick around June through September.  Upper 90's - 100+ in August every day. So I would be curious to hear from anyone about how these cars handle heat. Even after dark our lows in July might be 85.

 

I can't speak directly about Franklins but air cooled VWs did quite well in the Arizona desert heat when I was growing up.

 

Come to think of it, Tom Hubbard was a Franklin collector in Tucson and at one point I think he may have had the largest single collection of Franklins around. I don't recall the desert heat being considered an issue. His house and garage have now been turned into a Franklin car museum. https://franklinmuseum.org

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1 hour ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

...where I live because in my part of TX summer comes in around May 1st and mid 90's stick around June through September.  Upper 90's - 100+ in August every day. So I would be curious to hear from anyone about how these cars handle heat. ...

 

Actually, Brooklyn, that's a good question to ask about

ANY make of antique car.  How well do they perform in

intense heat?  Early cars may be more prone to overheating

or vapor lock.

 

From what I've seen written by AACA regions in hot and sunny

Florida, the antique car activity slows or stops in the heat of

the summer.  People may even rent storage for the 6 hottest

months and enjoy their cars when the weather is pleasant--

just the opposite of Northern practices.  Whether it's for their

own comfort in non-air conditioned cars, or for the cars' benefit,

warm-weather collectors can tell.

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I have heard that Franklin went to a lot of trouble to test their cars in hot weather in the desert including Death Valley. From my experience of air cooled VW cars and vans I would not hesitate to buy a Franklin in a hot climate provided certain precautions are followed.

 

Be sure the cooling system is exactly as it left the factory with no missing pieces, missing seals or gaps in the cooling shrouds. I have seen VWs killed by this. You wouldn't drive a water cooled car with water leaking out every which way and an air cooled engine can be just as sensitive to air leaks.

 

Try and keep the engine clean, a buildup of grease and dirt can block the cooling fins and reduce cooling.

 

Use good oil as recommended by the Franklin club. On a modern car I would say synthetic but I don't know if synthetics agree with the Franklin oiling system.

 

Keep the revs up so the cooling fan pushes lots of air. If the engine slows down too much on a hill on a hot day it is easier on the engine to shift down to second. The engine will do its work easier and get more air.

 

You may want to add an oil cooler, I would be guided by the Franklin club on this. I would definitely add a good heat gauge. On VWs there used to be an aftermarket heat gauge that worked off a special spark plug washer, this gave combustion chamber temp very accurately. If you had another gauge for oil temp you would be covered for any eventuality. If it gets too hot you can pull over and let it cool down, by letting it rev at a fast idle or shut it down for a half hour or hour.

 

Oh and one more thing. I have found mouse nests inside the shrouds, blocking the cooling of VWs that have been off the road for a long time. Worth checking for if you can.

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
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I had a 1931 Franklin I drove over 40,000 miles - the annual Franklin Club meet is in August and was located nearly 300 miles from me here on long island. the annual meet is held in August and for decades I drove my car there and back in 80+ degree heat. Never any issue of over heating and there were some very long grades and hills on Rt. 17 along the southern edge of NY state to get there , all done with no effort what so ever. I did not have to keep the engine "revs up" for any reason (?!?) , the car was running hotter then any water cooled engine could ever realize anyway and the Franklin never had any sign of over heating - no Franklin owner ever ( this is from 35+ years of attending the Franklin club event and driving there) complained of one needing to rev the engine to keep it cool, even in traffic.  Not sure where that idea comes from as the Franklin Company took that into consideration when they designed the car! 

Yes, Death Valley Scotty did drive Franklins all over Arizona etc to prove that they would not fail in incredibly hot weather. On a Franklin test drive in that area of the USA a Franklin was locked into 1st gear and drive all over to prove that it would not over heat.

There are many Franklins discovered over the decades and none that I know of had a huge amount of dirt accumulated/stuck to the fan nor the cooling fins on the cylinders. Sure keep it all clean but dirt and muck is not really an issue. The steel shrouds that form the air passage boxes to cool the cylinders are all bolted in place , are not sealed by any gaskets, so once secure really don't need attention as everything is securely held in place with lock washers. Some Franklin owners do add oil temperature gauges but I never heard one mention it was ever really needed or "saved" the day due to unexpected issues. Oil coolers were fitted to the V12 Franklin of 1932-34 between the V in the cylinder bank, if it didn't need it when new then likely does not need one now. Extra plumbing and cost , and engineering for ?

I have pulled a number of Franklins out of long storage under less then ideal conditions over a period of 40+ years and yes, you can get some rodent nests in them but like any other car mostly found in the exhaust system ( muffler) , although I did find one in the headliner above the windshield wiper motor when I restored my 1931 Derham bodied victoria , petrified, and quite stiff. He never interrupted the performance of the car. The best advice posted on this topic is that if you are interested in a Franklin the talk to someone who owns and drives their cars. My comments above are all mostly personal experiences on the 1930-34 era "side draft" models ( side  draft is a term used by Franklin owners as to how the air flows across the cylinders. ) My former 1931 Franklin is now owned by a good friend in Pa., the engine was rebuilt in the 1970s and has seen almost no service since except for things like new spark plugs , grease, oil change etc. Once these cars ( like any old car) are sorted out completely and correctly the first time, then they just need maintenance .

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As I said my experience was with air cooled VWs. They had a problem especially with the vans, of overheating if the driver did not keep the revs up but then, they were designed different from American cars, they had a 4 speed trans and the driver was supposed to use the lower gears, unlike American cars that were designed to go everywhere in high gear. I knew a guy from Arizona who cured his overheating problem in a VW transporter by driving around in 3d in real hot weather. He also cured a vapor lock problem by squashing half a grapefruit on the fuel pump but that is another story.

 

Best to be guided by the experience of other Franklin owners, my point was that air cooled cars can be just as reliable as water cooled cars in any weather possibly more reliable provided they are maintained and operated correctly. By the way I have seen mouse nests inside VW engines cooling shrouds when I took out the spark plug wires, and also in the heating ducts. I always got them out with a vacuum cleaner and air hose without dismantling the engine.

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The hotter a Franklin gets the better they seem to run.

 

You can run a Franklin with very few modifications from new - when the car was built they obsessed with pre-heating fuel and that really just does not work today.  Original fuemers should be disconnected (a pre-heating device inside the carb that works on the starting circuit that is no longer a good idea as the gas is more combustible today) - most already are disconnected but ..., and as gas formulation changed we we relocated the  relocate the fuel line from exhaust heat sources,  wrapped/ insulated the fuel line, and wrapped the exhaust.  We also installed an electric fuel pump to prime and as just in case also is nice - but in 2005 we were still not running the electric pump for anything other than starting purposes.  You do need a good mechanical pump on a 1929-1934 and you need your vacuum tank in order for pre-1929.   As to other modifications, via our 1930, I think all we had a modern insert rod bearing and a modern seal on the fan to crankcase cover.   Our car from new had a larger diameter taillpipe (2") from new (car had original exhaust) - I assume this was done to reduce back-pressure and gave it a few more horsepower (as other club members noticed and tried it also they were very impressed with results of doing same to their 30/31's). 

 

1930 is the only year they put on an oil pressure gauge - the best advice we ever received was countless club members that said "ignore it" as it is not how much pressure you have it is that you do have pressure and as a result you have volume going to the needed places.   You can bump the oil pressure up a little by installing a reducer in the timing chain oil piping, but that is not even necessary.    Franklin did play with oil coolers toward the end (around 33-34), but they certainly not needed.  I thought the car was a little hard on oil, but we drove it plenty (think of it as an early airplane verses a car - change the oil via hours running time and conditions verses mileage.

 

No need for a heat gauge either - just drive and drive and have a great time.

 

There are plenty of Franklin Club members that have run up substantial miles on their car, some daily drivers, and ....

 

Also, full elliptical springs result in a dreamy ride !  The wood frame cars are equally as impressive. 

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The 1927 Franklin is a series 11, engine is not the same or as powerful as the 1930-34 cars. That doesn't not mean they do not run well or can't be driven, just means best speed is about 40-45 mph . I have not looked at the photo but if it is a nice solid complete car, runs well and you do not suffer from the all wood frame sagging at the cowl, sounds really good.

John has it correct re the oil seal at the fan in the front  on the 1930-34 cars and most when now restored see the connecting rods machined to accept insert bearing shells instead of poured bearings. Some decades ago it was discovered that Nash Ambassador rod bearing shells were a good replacement and easily located, well most of those are now gone and in rebuilt Franklin engines ( sorry Nash guys) .

Ignition parts are very easy to get ( ask for or order 1950-54 Chevy cap, condenser, rotor , points) new.

At the Franklin meet 30+ years ago they used to invite former employees that were still alive to lunch and have time to share their memories of working for the Franklin company. I was heavily involved with that and recall test drivers telling us that they were told to go to the bottom of Lord's Hill on a route near ( south I believe) of the factory and put the Franklin in high then accelerate and slip the clutch to go up a steep hill  to test it out , I remember very well that I was told with a great pride by Howard Carey one of the test drivers that by the time he got to the top of the hill he was doing 50mph.

I took it upon myself in the early 1970s to contact every former employee by mail that I could find - enclosed a questionaire, an SSAE and a personal note to please answer my questions about the days they worked for Franklin. I still have over 60 + answers to those plus the follow ups I did after that. Most I have never worked into a story as of yet. At the time, as  someone in their early 20's age wise it cost me quite a bit to have the questionaire photo copied ( this was in the days before personal computers folks) plus buy envelopes, stamps etc. I went without lunch several days a week to have the $ to do that. W. Chapin (Chape) Condit a former employee and Franklin Club stalwart helped me get as many addresses and names as possible. I felt it was something I had to do to honor those employees who were in their late 70s or 80s age wise at the time. Some of the storys as to how things were done are absolutely amazing.

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Not mine - this is on HCCA website (looks like a super super solid car in presentable condition) https://hcca.org/classifieds.php?cars# 

1927 Franklin 11B Touring

1927 Franklin 11B Touring

Click photo for MORE Photos

This is an amazingly well-preserved original Franklin that has not been restored but rather carefully maintained and conserved

  1. Odometer reads 56,339, which is believed to be original
  2. Retains its original firewall mounted data plate
  3. Chassis # 170032-1
  4. Original side curtains, top, upholstery and paint with striping
  5. Even has a MASCO exhaust heater!

Perfect candidate for HCCA, AACA and CCCA tours-- Preservation Class entry at any Event and only $30,000

More pictures on request
Contact: Silverstone Group Ltd
   St. Louis, MO,
Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)
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7 minutes ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

Question on the Franklin (I really do like the open touring listed) is if you are not moving, how does air circulate around the cylinder banks?  I did not know how long that designed lasted but if it lasted that many years there must have been a good reason.  

The 20's cars are called "downdraft" cars (air by fan is blown down over a finned cylinder) and the 1930 -1934 cars are called "sidedraft" cars (air by fan is blown across the finned cylinder).   The cylinder design is different per each.  The Fan is bolted to the crankshaft - self sufficient and you can let a car sit and idle for hours (if wanted).

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)
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4 minutes ago, Rusty_OToole said:

Re the Franklins with wooden frame rails - it is possible to replace broken or weak frame rails without taking the car completely apart. They are made of ash boards and the Franklin club has blueprints for making new ones. It's a big job but not the kiss of death.

Not that I have ever seen (other than minor repair work) you have to pull the body off, engine out, suspension off, and then de-attach maybe 100 or so little parts - to then be at a place to remake the wood.  There are a huge number of cars running around with original wooden frames (they stopped the wooden frames some time in 1928).

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31 minutes ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

Question on the Franklin (I really do like the open touring listed) is if you are not moving, how does air circulate around the cylinder banks?  I did not know how long that designed lasted but if it lasted that many years there must have been a good reason.  

 

There is a crankshaft driven squirrel type fan at the front of the engine, that as a previous poster notes draws air down around the cylinders in most of them up to 1930 or so, and then after that blows air across the cylinders. Even at idle it is moving quite a bit of air.

 

Unlike a Volkswagen say, where the fan is driven by belt, these fans are turning as long as the engine itself is turning.

 

Roger

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1 minute ago, theKiwi said:

 

There is a crankshaft driven squirrel type fan at the front of the engine, that as a previous poster notes draws air down around the cylinders in most of them up to 1930 or so, and then after that blows air across the cylinders. Even at idle it is moving quite a bit of air.

 

Unlike a Volkswagen say, where the fan is driven by belt, these fans are turning as long as the engine itself is turning.

 

Roger

Introduction of 1930 is the change year for crossdraft (aka 1929 is downdraft).   REALLY BIG FANS on any 20's through 34 Franklin.

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For the most part I have never heard of a Franklin wood frame of the 1925-28 era breaking or needing extensive repair. Biggest issue is that at the place where the firewall and hood meet seems to be the place where after 90 years or so the laminated ash frame starts to sag and this can be seen at the bottom rear corner  of the hood at this point as a gap at the bottom starts to take place. Some owners make a repair to fix this by reinforcing ( under the bottom edge of the wood chassis) with a piece of stiff sheet metal ( kinda like a spring leaf but not a spring leaf, that reference is just to give you a visual idea of what I am trying to describe) Most owners over a long winter will take all the pieces off and have made or make themselves new frame rails out of ash. But that ash should be laminated just like the originals were.  John's comment is correct, all of it has to come off, and yes drawings are available to get the correct image of the chassis. Rusty you stated it well - a big job but not the kiss of death.

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none of the photos show the rear of the hood /cowl area at a profile from the side to see if there is any gap. You will have to contact the seller to have him take more photos and if he does have him take photos of both sides, not from above but directly from the side with the camera at about the level of the bottom corner of the hood.  the rest of the car looks great and original upholstery is a plus.

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4 hours ago, Walt G said:

Some owners make a repair to fix this by reinforcing ( under the bottom edge of the wood chassis) with a piece of stiff sheet metal ( kinda like a spring leaf but not a spring leaf,

 

I have seen one car with exactly that - a long single leaf spring under each chassis rail that is made such that upward pressure is exerted on the bottom of the wooden frame rail presumably in the area of the rear engine mounts. I don't have the exact dimensions, but it was something like 2" wide, maybe ¼" or ⅜" thick. It was fastened at each end - up near the front of the rail and down the back in front of the rear axle.

 

It's something I vaguely think about for my 11A which is suffering the dreaded sag - the hardest part I'm sure is figuring out just how strong the spring needs to be - i.e. how much upwards pressure it exerts in that area right by the rear engine mounts when it's strapped up under the chassis rails.

 

Roger

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Perhaps pose that question on the Franklin section of this forum and ask those who already have this piece of steel installed when, who  did it and to take photos of what theirs looks like. I did see this at a Franklin club trek ( what they call their annual meet) once many years ago but can not recall whose car it was.

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The one I saw was on the John Strawway/Mark Chaplin yellow 2 door Sport something or other (sorry forget exactly what that yellow car is called) 11A or B when they had it in Michigan for the 2017 Midwest Meet/Air Cooled Meet.

 

I've also seen the drawings for the Franklin dreamed up fix for this (meaning they recognised it as a problem while the cars were still young) of wire cables stretched and tensioned really tight - anchored to each end of the frame rail and then held off the frame rail by a standoff at the point under the rear engine mount. It is unknown if any of these were ever fitted, and if so just how effective they might have been - but Franklin clearly thought about it when this drawing was done in 1929.

 

image.thumb.png.ae680965307bf5f2908e03c2b2d79f19.png

Roger

Edited by theKiwi (see edit history)
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Quite true. If the wood frame gives trouble it is not that hard to replace. It is necessary to jack the car up and put stands under the ends of the axles and crossmembers then remove the bolts that hold the frame rail on. You can then remove the frame rail and put in a new one. Tighten the bolts and repeat on the other side. I believe it is necessary to remove the fenders and running boards but that is about all. So, not an easy job but not overwhelming either. The frame rails are made of ash 1/2" thick, seven layers glued together. The Franklin club has the blueprints showing length, width, where to drill the bolt holes etc.

 

But as you say, they seldom give trouble especially these days when they do not get the pounding on rough roads they did in the teens and twenties.

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17 hours ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

OK, but a problem I would just soon enough avoid.  If anyone has looked at the pictures posted of that Franklin touring can you point out the spot I would be looking at?

It will absolutely not be an issue on this touring car = I cannot imagine a nice car like this ever having a frame issues - frame issues come on severely weathered cars that require total restoration. 

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7 minutes ago, mercer09 said:

solid 1931 Pierce model 43 for sale on ebay- currently at 9100. and looks like it will sell for a bargain price. Does run and will need some sprucing up, but a Filenes Basement price!

Very interesting car but not a project I could take on. Any car I get from this time period is a total learning experience and with that much support would be needed on any major mechanical work.  I am pretty good on fixing things, repairs, etc. Very handy really IF I have a book with me or some support. Much like the issue I am having replacing the clutch on my 46 Dodge.  What it should be is not. Who would have thought. (Previous owner, "pilot bushing won't fit?  ahhh who needs one anyway") I have thread going in Dodge 46 fluid drive clutch replacement. My 49 Roadmaster gave me a starter, electric, ignition issue and was able to sort that out with everyone's help.

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Hello Brooklyn Beer , I am the fellow selling the 1929 Franklin that is on the HH franklin website.  This car has a steel frame . Nothing to worry about.  Like some of the other guys have said the Franklin club is a great club. I have nothing but praise for every member I have come in contact with. You have to join the club in order to find parts but they are out there . Just have to find the person who has it. I have two other Franklins. One that I have been working on for a while and a 1931 151 4 door sedan that came from Alabama. The Franklin guys on here will know the car.  The 29 is a good driver. If you would like more info pm me for my number. I just like talking about cars in general but especially Franklins.                                                                                                                                                                                                     To Walt Gosden, I was at a show in October with my 31 and two fellows came up to me and wanted to know about my Franklin. The one guy said he had owned one a long time ago and it was in sad shape but very rare.  I live in NJ and I know about most Franklins but this was a while ago so I did not know about this one until I started talking to him. He said it was a rare body style and he sold it to some one who then had it  restored. I started naming off body builders and he said it was a Derham .WOW  I said that it was owned by Walt Gosden but is now in Pa. with another Franklin guy. He said yes that is who I sold it to Walt. His name was Jack Edmunds.  This car show was at Tabernacle High school in Tabernacle NJ. I told him Paul Fitzpatrick restored the car and it is still a beauty. He was very happy to talk about it . I love meeting the people and hearing the stories .   Jim  

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Thanks for replying about your fine car. It is a beauty for sure. BUT don't hold up selling it on my account because right now I am in the look and learn stage of acquiring a 1927-33 era car with a purchase plan some 2 months down the road. I learn more and more every day about cars from this era thanks to good folks like yourself. Honestly I never knew of Franklins till this thread. They seem like very interesting and strong mechanically inclined vehicles.  I read someplace that around 3700 only remain?  So let me ask you this.  What is the most often thing that breaks or goes wrong?  With that, has an aftermarket solution been devised that keeps it factory appearance or are parts readily available for it?   What do you consider the high points of the Franklin and what would you say are the low points mechanical wise?  With the car I buy I doubt I will ever be able to attend any judged shows or major events. Never any down this way that I could do in a 12 hour day. Mostly local stuff and evening drives into town (6 -7 miles each way) and perhaps trailered to events maybe 2 hours from my house. So a top end restored strictly show car would not be in my best interest because it will get driven when the weather permits even just to get groceries. Don't like leaving them just sit in the garage.

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In a 1927 to 1933 Franklin, I really do not think there is any downside.  The cars are air-cooled and that is not for everyone is perhaps the downside matched to on a 100 degree day you will have toasty floors and if you have a major issue it is going to be more expensive to deal with than a Model A or T.  You would need to be a club member to successfully run one long term (there are people who are not members, but it sure is nice to pick or the phone or email for help and club members tend to be a phone call or email away). There are enough running around too that you do not have to re-invent the wheel (ie someone has been there done that, has made an extra couple parts, or ...). 

 

I also tend to preach Auburn - great cars and great club.

 

Cadillac, Lincolns, Packards, and Pierce Arrows are lovely cars for touring too.

 

And, a Model A (or a T) is easy to keep on the road.

 

There are countless other makes too - though the further you move off the beaten path the better your parts hunting skills need to be, as well as your access to "problem solvers" and machinists, and 

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Not many downsides to the Franklin. They are very well built cars. One thing they did have a problem with on some of the cars was the T2 Stromberg carb made out of pot metal. They break down over time. Most have been replaced by now. Parts are available. I went to my local NAPA and got 4 wheel cylinders the next day.  I had a trans rebuilt in the other car and all gears were still available. I had an engine rebuilt and found all the parts needed . None of my cars have ever left  me stranded.  There are many parts available from the club itself. Mechanical wise no low points. the engines are bullet proof.  You cant go wide open all day but you know what I mean .Keep the oil changed.  All my cars get driven. That is the only way. Be prepared to talk when you stop for gas though ! Good luck in the search.  I would highly recommend a Franklin though. Jim  

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4 minutes ago, 29 franklin said:

Not many downsides to the Franklin. They are very well built cars. One thing they did have a problem with on some of the cars was the T2 Stromberg carb made out of pot metal. They break down over time. Most have been replaced by now. Parts are available. I went to my local NAPA and got 4 wheel cylinders the next day.  I had a trans rebuilt in the other car and all gears were still available. I had an engine rebuilt and found all the parts needed . None of my cars have ever left  me stranded.  There are many parts available from the club itself. Mechanical wise no low points. the engines are bullet proof.  You cant go wide open all day but you know what I mean .Keep the oil changed.  All my cars get driven. That is the only way. Be prepared to talk when you stop for gas though ! Good luck in the search.  I would highly recommend a Franklin though. Jim  

Saw this:  

December 7, 2018.
Series 12 and 13 new replacement Zenith updraft carburetors.

Designed to replace the original potmetal Stromberg T-2 on all Series 12A and B, and all potmetal T-2, U-2 used to mid production Series 13. After many decades the original potmetal carbs are cracking and becoming unsafe to use as a result of intergranular corrosion. The potmetal used in the 1920's and early 1930's is porous. It is slowly corroding from within and expanding/cracking. 

These are new manufacture, diecast updraft carburetors have the correct size venturi and jetting for all Franklin Series 12A, B, and Series 130. Plus a model is available for the larger Series 135/137 engines. 

Features

  • Bench set and ready to bolt-on updraft that uses all the original hand and foot controls.
  • Simple and decades-proven design.
  • Original air filter fits right on.
  • Adjustable idle speed, idle air/fuel mix, and high speed fuel jet, that work the same as the tuning procedures covered in the Franklin Operator’s Manuals.
  • Fuel-proof rubber tipped float needle for leak-free sealing when the engine is shutoff.
  • Same 1/8 inch pipe thread as original fuel line inlet fitting.
  • Vacuum controlled accelerator and power enrichment circuits.
  • Dust seals an throttle and choke butterfly shafts.
  • Comes with new mounting gasket, nuts, and lock washers.


Note, these are not stationary/industrial engine carburetors, like many that are turning up installed as replacements in the past. With these there is no need to over-adjust the main jet too-rich for cruising conditions so as to compensate for being too-lean during acceleration and hill climbing because previous replacement types lacked those fuel circuits. These are specifically designed and sized with all the correct fuel circuits needed to smoothly handle all Franklin driving conditions with the proper air/fuel ratios. 

For more info contact,
Paul Fitzpatrick
Email: airiscool@frontiernet.net
607-674-9432

Parts

Parts

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23 hours ago, theKiwi said:

The one I saw was on the John Strawway/Mark Chaplin yellow 2 door Sport something or other (sorry forget exactly what that yellow car is called) 11A or B when they had it in Michigan for the 2017 Midwest Meet/Air Cooled Meet.

 

I've also seen the drawings for the Franklin dreamed up fix for this (meaning they recognised it as a problem while the cars were still young) of wire cables stretched and tensioned really tight - anchored to each end of the frame rail and then held off the frame rail by a standoff at the point under the rear engine mount. It is unknown if any of these were ever fitted, and if so just how effective they might have been - but Franklin clearly thought about it when this drawing was done in 1929.

 

image.thumb.png.ae680965307bf5f2908e03c2b2d79f19.png

Roger

Railroad cars with wood frames used tie rods with block standoff’s much like this to support the wood frames on the early wood cars.a

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