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Correct color MT 401???


kreed

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A few years ago I bought a couple of 66 Riviera part cars . One of them had an MT code engine which is a 401. Since all 66 Riviera's had 425 's ( MW or MZ) , this engine obviously did not belong in the parts car ( numbers didn't match either) . I disassembled most of it today . It is currently red and had the finned valve  covers ( again wrong for a 401 ) . There was a little touch of green in the valley pan . The heads and engine casting numbers are appropriate for a 64-66 Buick  . I have searched the Internet but remain confused as to what color to repaint this motor as I go through it - green or red ?.. I seen a little of both on the 66 Wildcat , Skylark and Electra . Appreciate your thoughts on what I suspect is an obvious answer but Injust can't confirm .

KReed

ROA 14549 

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MT is a 325 hp 401.  M is 1966, T is a four barrel 401.  If it were an MU, MR, or an MS then it could have been a ( on paper) 400 that would have been painted red and found in one of the Skylark series cars.  Chances are it's a 401 from  Wildcat, or an Electra.  Buick Green would be the appropriate color.  I don't know nor can I find right now what the codes are for a two barrel 401. But if it's not the MW from a Riviera or a 400 (401) from a Skylark GS, then it should be green.

 

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C 6 105807

 

Looks to me like there are 5 numbers missing from the front.  Anyone else have something different on decoding a 66 VIN?  And the ones stamped are not in the same order.  I decode this a C - Built in South Gate, GA, 6 - 1966, and the last six are the numbers unique to this car.  Anyone else?

 

 

Commonly referred to as the VIN NUMBER, this series of numbers and letters is stamped on a plate attached to the left front door hinge pillar, and stamped on the engine block.
FIRST DIGIT: Identifies the GM Division (4=Buick)
SECOND AND THIRD DIGIT: Identifies the series
SERIES
CODE
V-6
CODE
V-8
Special
Special Deluxe
Skylark
Sprotwagon
Sportwagon Custom
Skylart Gran Sport
LeSabre
LeSabre Custom
Wildcat
Wildcat Custom
Electra
Electra Custom
Riviera
33
35
43
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
34
36
44
42
44
46
52
54
64
66
82
84
94
FOURTH AND FIFTH DIGITS: Identifies the body style
BODY STYLE
Sport Coupe, 2-Door, Pillar Post
Sport Coupe, 2-Door, Hardtop
Station Wagon, 4-Door, 2-Seat
Hardtop Coupe,2-Door
Sedan Hardtop, 4-Door
Sportwagon, 4-Door, 2 Seat
Sport Coupe, 2-Door
Sportwagon, 4-Door, 3-Seat
Convertible, 2-Door
Sedan, 4-Door, Pillar Post
Sport Coupe Hardtop, 2-Door
07
17
35
37
39
55
57
65
67
69
87
SIXTH DIGIT: Identifies the model year (6 = 1966)
SEVENTH DIGIT: Identifies the assembly plant
ASSEMBLY PLANT
Flint, MI
South Gate, CA
Fremont, CA
Kansas City, KS
Wilmington, DE
Atlanta, GA
Baltimore, MD
Kansas City, MO
Bloomfield MI
Oshawa, Ont., CAN
H
C
Z
X
Y
D
B
K
V
I
LAST 6 DIGITS: Represent the basic production numbers. Starting number 100001/up.
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The '66 that I had rebuilt had the water crossover manifold with a lifting loop built in.  It also had a lifting loop cast into the rear of the block.  I don't know if this was the same for the 401 but take a look at the back of your block and see if it has a lifting loop cast into the rear of the block.  Did you get the water crossover manifold with this engine?

 

Ed

 

Addendum:  

Kind of hard to see but the rear lifting loop is to the left of the distributor on top of the bellhousing and the back of the block (It's in the shadow)

step0001.jpg?1546481116608

 

 

Lifting loop on the water crossover manifold.

 

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100_4913.JPG

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
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Yes the crossover manifold ws there - No lifting loops front or back . I got half of the block down to bare cast iron tonight and it was definitely a factory green everywhere . I think someone tried to dress it up as a 425 by painting it red and putting on the finned valve covers thinking no one would know the differences if the MT was covered with paint and  a little well placed grease gob ! Anyway I am having a good time going through it and educating my self - almost as exciting as doing exploratory belly surgery - always something different and you always learn something no matter how long you've been doing it. After I get back together , I plan to set it on a cradle and rig something so I can start it . The timing cover was absolutely stuck to the block by two rusty bolts that I ended up breaking off trying to get them out and now have to drill them out and retap so... If anyone has a good timing cover for a 401/425 , I would be interested .  Thanks 

KReed

ROA 14549

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