Jump to content

1954 Dodge Royal Coupe with 9,872 miles


Jeffltd

Recommended Posts

Hey folks,  

A friend of mine has offered me his father’s car. It is a true time capsule car with only 9,872 miles on it. It’s been sitting for 50 years and before that, they hardly drove it. It has the hemi engine, power steering, power flight 2 speed automatic. It’s sitting on its original tires, cracked but holding air. It’s complete. In the glove box I found, original bill of sale, temporary paper driving tag, a personal letter from the dealer. Not a speck of rust. This car is a real deal time capsule. I realize there are many unknowns, but could someone give me an idea of it’s worth being it has such low mileage, assuming what I’m saying is indeed factual?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is an idea:  

 

https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1954-dodge-royal

 

Probably somewhere between $7500-$10,000 would be my guess, based on the information given.

 

Edit, I did not the original post correctly.  If it has actually been sitting for 50 years, that knocks it way down, until/unless you can get it running and driving (not on those tires of course).

 

Edited by 39BuickEight (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Value will depend on the degree of damage done from sitting for 1/2 century, and the care you take to avoid further damage. Do you understand the proper sequence necessary to wake this sleeping beauty up ? Perhaps you could take the first step now where the car is being stored. That would be draining ALL liquid fluids out. As you are there with a wrench in hand, take advantage of the easy access to Hemi spark plugs, and pull them. If you have or have access to a 'scope or camera, and have the experience to know what you are looking at, examine the cylinder walls. If the car has spent all 50 years in very low humidity, and very stable temperature, (it may have been - "not a speck of rust" - not even any surface rust ANYWHERE  ?), you may skip this step. But 50 years is a very long period for dormancy. 

 

You will get all the expert help you need for each and every step of resurrection here. But you may well have that skill your self. Let us know so we can tailor the discussion to your needs. We all here enjoy following along on each other's projects. From hunting them to fixin them to driving them, that's what we do and share. You are in great hands, and most welcome here! So PLEASE let us know your experience level. There are several things to do now that the plugs are out. Careful lubrication coming up.        Looking forward to seeing your progress,     -   Carl 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hopefully no moisture damage on  the trans or rear end gears.

Was it in good dry garage most of it's life?

Cars that sit long periods of time in cold moist conditions can have high $ repairs because of rust pitting on gears and bearings, stuck valves etc....hopefully this is not the case here.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you, Carl. Expert advice. Yes, I’ve been working on cars my whole life. I’ve restored many. I drive a 54 XK 120 as an everyday driver. I know the "not a speck of rust” seems impossible, but I jacked the car up and made a thorough inspection. I’ll know more once I get the dust off it. I will certainly heed your advice and won’t be bashful asking for advice here. I’ve been primarily a foreign car guy, although I did own a Chrysler 300 F once and a 1960 Face Vega HK500, it had a Hemi Engine. I’ll be certain to post updates. Thanks again!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They come up on ebay if you search all of ebay not just the manuals section.  Often originals in good shape.  I prefer a little worn but intact.  Perfect examples bring more but you hate to use them and get them dirty.  I would imagine 10 to 20 would be an average range.  They are not hot cars in general and literature for them rarely brings any kind of money. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

George,

I’m in the process of buying it. Just wondering if I paid too much. Don’t think I did. Picking it up on Friday. I’ll start fiddling with it on Saturday. And Auburnseeker, I found a manual on eBay. Paid a bit more for it but I got that huge 1000 page Dodge service manual. I’m guessing its pretty comprehensive. I’ll have no excuse if I screw things up now.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A MoToRs auto repair manual covering your 1954 car is also a good investment for not much $$$.  It was written for non dealer repair garages where access to specific dealer tools might not be possible.  It together with the shop manual will be quite helpful.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, TerryB said:

A MoToRs auto repair manual covering your 1954 car is also a good investment for not much $$$.  It was written for non dealer repair garages where access to specific dealer tools might not be possible.  It together with the shop manual will be quite helpful.

 

I may have a Motors manual that would cover this year. I would have to look.

Just the cost of shipping.

I picked up three or four manuals from the trash so they aren't much for condition. But the content is there.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jack,

I’d love to get a manual. My email address is jseymour878@gmail.com. If you send me an email I’ll forward my mailing address. Thanks so much and I’m happy to cover the shipping costs.

On another note; the fellow I’m buying the car from is having trouble finding the keys. If he can’t find them, what is the best way for me to get a set of keys made? Are there codes on the locks? Anything that would be helpful?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 You can remove the distributor and then the distributor drive gear and oil pump shaft (one piece) and then use a drill with the proper extension and lube the engine with the oil pump before turning over. The intake manifold may have to be removed and re-timing of the oil pump drive to the camshaft. Not for the amature machnic!

 

 Also fill the cylinders with a light oil and maybe penetrating oil mix, first without the spark plugs in. Let it soak for a few days for the oil to go past the end gaps on the rings.

 Suck out extra oil before cranking.

 You might also try to turn the engine over a little. both ways with a power bar on the crank nut.

Edited by Roger Walling
Changed lube, to "fill" cylinders. + penetrating oil and use a power bar. Not for the amature machnic (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tell the counter person it is a book, so Media mail. When they get back with a high price, repeat Media mail, it is a book.

 

Oh, and look up the price at usps.gov first, before you go!😉

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jack,

Please feel free to us the first class flat rate. They offer 3 sizes. I think the most expensive one is 12 bucks. I’ll be happy to pay it. You’re kind enough to let me have it for free and I’ll get it sooner. How can I transfer the money? Venmo, PayPal?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Please reread my post with additional warnings.

 While it may be technically possible to remove the oil pump drive like I mentioned, but it may not be practical in everyday life.

 I don't want to get a home hobbiest in a lot of trouble, so if you do not know Hemi's, don't do it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Folks,

So I’ve taken possession of my 54 Royal Coupe. Where do I find parts, like a hood spring, a spring for the front brake shoes, rebuild kits for my brake systems, carburetor, fuel pump, etc.? Are there any specialty outlets that handle these cars? Or I’m I just going to NAPA, Pep boys, Auto Zone and hoping they can reference them in their books?

Also, I need to create a set of keys for the doors, ignition, glovebox and trunk. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been buying most of my brake stuff off ebay.  Alot of it in kit forms like all 4 wheel cylinders (yours has 6 I believe) master and rubber hoses as one package.  Depending on how original you want it to be you may want to get NOS ones and rebuild them.  I would personally just buy new and keep the originals.  You can probably find an NOS brake spring on there as well.  If not you could try the local stores.  They should be able to come up with something.  I have used a place called Roberts as well in MA?  they stock alot of what you need.  

The hood spring you may be able to find NOS.  There is also Andy Benrbaum?  which I think sold recently that has alot of NOS stuff.  Again I just search ebay alot.  Some people don't like it,  but once you figure out how to narrow searches alot of stuff is available. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 A locksmith that has been around a while should be able to cut your keys if you give him the number or possably come out and make one. Frequently the numbers can be found on door handles, at least with old Buicks. Otherwise you might need to send a lock into a locksmith to have one made. Jesser's is a specialist in old car keys;  http://www.jessersclassickeys.com/

 

Carl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Things like brakes, carburetor, fuel pump, fan belts, spark plugs etc can be bought from your local NAPA store if you have the right parts man. If you have a dusty old parts store manned by old bald headed or gray haired clerks standing behind a rack of parts books, that is the place. The shiny new Autozone manned by a kid with purple hair and a snot ring probably won't be much help.

 

I have also had good luck with Rockauto although, it can be hit or miss on some older cars.

 

The point is parts for fifties cars are generally available IF you can get a good part number to look it up. I mean mechanical parts, body parts, chrome, trim are a different matter.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Roberts Motor Parts and Andy Bernbaum (now some other name that escapes me) and Then and Now auto parts as mentioned by West were good sources.  Kanter auto parts too.  And yes even the local NAPA if they are willing to help you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just want to say congratulations on acquiring the new old Dodge, and thanks for posting the pic of the nice old Jag. You obviously know what nice old cars are all about, so I'm sure the Dodge lives up to your assessment. NAPA won't have the hood spring. Why do you need another one? If it's because of corrosion, then be cautious of corrosion elsewhere, as others have said. The internet and ebay are the best bet for a lot of the parts you mentioned. On the other hand, NAPA has often surprised me for what they've had in stock that will work on my '54 Ford Ranch Wagon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I certainly will. In the meantime, could someone give me the skinny on dropping the oil pan on the Red Ram 271 Engine? I’ve removed the starter and crossover exhaust pipe, and all of the bolts on the pan. The manual says to, "disconnect the steering linkage at idler arm support bracket and allow linkage to settle away from the oil pan."

What is the, “ Idler arm support bracket?” and is this the best way to drop the pan?

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...