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Kestrel

'51 Buick cylinder head wrench

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I'm looking for a cylinder head wrench adapter in the event I have to remove the head on my '51 Super. The book says to use a KMO 187-1 attachment with 3/4" box end. Anyone know if this one would work ? A see a few on eBay. Thanks !

 

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You won't be able to get enough torque on the head bolts to get it off with any kind of box wrench.  Take the rockers off so you can use a decent ratchet.  

 

Besides, you are going to have to do it when you put it back on or how are you going to use a torque wrench.

 

The rockers will be the least of your worries taking the head off.  Wait till you try to pick it up.

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Those tools were used to retorque the head after the engine had been run for a bit...I bent my own that worked OK, but if you plan to remove the head, you'll definitely want to remove the rocker shaft first.  It's not hard, and you won't have to fight the pushrods that way.  You will need an engine hoist or two pals to help you lift that head off; it's a monster.  

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Okay. I was going to try to re-torque the bolts first to see if it corrects the coolant weeping I mentioned in a previous post. My plan was to remove and replace  one at a time, cleaning each hole and thread, reapplying thread sealant on the left side bolts, and regular torque lube on the others, then replace each one before moving on to another in a reverse torquing pattern. I'd mark each bolt first to see if the 2nd torquing made any difference.

 

The shop manual says to remove the rockers for head removal. I assume if the correct wrench adapter was available, sufficient torque could be applied with rockers in place for final torquing down. At least that's what the shop manual says....and has a picture 

even. 

 

I have the time to try this anyway and a shop crane if the head has to come off. (I wonder if the original thread sealant failed and that's why the weepage is only on the left side where the bolts pass through water passages ) Thanks guys !

 

On 12/1/2018 at 8:37 PM, Fr. Buick said:

Try to torque down the head bolts per factory instruction, and seeing if that solves the problem.  Keep an eye on the oil.  If there is a sign of water contamination, it needs a new head gasket for sure...

 

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If you plan to retorque the head, do it one bolt at a time in the order suggested by the shop manual, and break each bolt loose first (in order, one at a time).  If you try to simply tighten each bolt, you will have to overcome its breakaway torque value, which could give you a false reading.  The danger of retorquing in your case is that you may disturb the sealer on the driver's bank of bolts, but it sounds like you don't have much to lose by trying it.  Good luck!

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