Mark Kikta

1922 Oil pan removal

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ATF and acetone don't mix. It makes no sense. No matter how hard you shake them before you pour it, the acetone separates out and floats on the top, and quickly evaporates. So all you have left after 10 minutes is ATF. What's the point of soaking in ATF/acetone mix for a week when the acetone is gone after 10 minutes? Use toluene instead of acetone, it mixes with ATF and is an extremely strong solvent of hydrocarbon resins, almost as good as acetone (nothing is as good as acetone).

 

Better yet, just use PB blaster. I don't know what's in it, but it's incredible. It even smells good.

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Ok thanks Morgan,

 

So far I have tried some Marvel Mystery oil first (which actually leaked by every piston), PB Blaster next which leaked by all the pistons also, straight ATF which has not leaked by any piston and yesterday ATF and Acetone which I have not checked on yet.

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Well I used the plastigage tonight and I believe the Rod bearing was .002 and the main bearing was .003.  Seems like since the rod bearing was just over 2 inches in diameter and the main was larger at 2.5 inches and maybe the bearings are not too bad.

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You will be fine with those clearances.   Be sure to check that the piston wrist pin bolt is tight.  These early Buicks are known to have the bolt loosen and the wrist pin score the cylinder wall.

 

Bob Engle

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Mark, 

     Look up Pegasus drilled head bolts.  I barely had a lock washer in one of my wrist pins.  Wiring these in place is an easy upgrade.   You can't get a torque wrench in here.  They just need to be tight.  As for the main bearing caps, the person that line bored my engine said no more than 100 ft lbs.    Hugh

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Thanks Hugh,

 

That looks like a good idea.  I still have my safety wire pliers so this would be an easy upgrade. Do you remember what size you ordered?  I haven't taken any of those off.

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Mark, 

   item # AN5H-12A    5/16-24 x .813 Grip airframe bolt, 1.34UHL, Drilled head.  I also used new grade 8 lock washers.  I do not reuse any of these old lock washers.  They are pretty inferior.   Hugh 

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2 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said:

Mark, 

     Look up Pegasus drilled head bolts.  I barely had a lock washer in one of my wrist pins.  Wiring these in place is an easy upgrade.   You can't get a torque wrench in here.  They just need to be tight.  As for the main bearing caps, the person that line bored my engine said no more than 100 ft lbs.    Hugh

IMG_6969.thumb.JPG.ba4e8b1f9d0cb445e97e52843c9f7c77.JPG

 

I like that idea.

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Took the oil piping off today and cleaned it.  Also took the oil pump off and cleaned it.  Number of screws holding the filter on were broken or rusted off.  Also screen on the bottom side is in bad shape.  Any ideas where I might find more of this screen material?

 

oil pump looks Ok I think too

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Mark,

From what I can see in this last photo, the oil pump bottom plate looks to be in pretty good shape.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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McMaster Carr for screen.

 

Pump cover looks great. 

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The cover looks great, however, you should platigage the space between the cover and the gears to find the actual clearance and if necessary, reduce it to spec.

However at the very low oil pressure, i'd expect it to be fine - but it pays to know.

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Mark, 

     Kevin Roner sent me a piece of screen which was exactly what I needed.  Larry DiBarry told me to use 50/50 solder and the solder flowed well.  I bought this big roll off ebay  (the smallest roll I could find).  I can put a piece of this solder in an envelope to you if you need it.      Hugh

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Ok great Hugh

I don’t have any 50/50 solder.  Did you use a small torch or large soldering iron?

 

thank you

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Used a torch, but keep the flame directed at the edge and away from the center of the screen.  It can burn a hole.  

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Hugh,

do you remember what mesh you used?  I'm thinking the 30x30 mesh with 0.021 opening and wire diameter of 0.012 wire dia would work.

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Mark, 

     The mesh I have is made from .005 brass wire.  It is 32 x38 wires per inch.  The mesh size opening looks like .021 x .021.  Strange that I can't seem to find a mesh like this.  I think what you have found would work well.   Hugh   

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Question on the stuck engine.  Does the crankshaft rock at all? even just a tiny bit?  The amount of wiggle can help determine what is seized. I don't know what drives your camshaft, but the mid 20's and up Buick used a fibre timing gear and if the cam shaft, lifters or a valve are stuck, often the cam gear dies in the process of freeing up the engine.

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After checking to ensure my water pump was free, I tried to rotate the crank,  It was difficult but I did turn it maybe 1/8 of a turn and I believe the camehaft turned just a bit, maybe 1/8 of an inch.  It seemed to get stiffer so I stopped.  Valves and rockers are free.  After disconnecting the rod end cap on #1 cylinder, I was able to move the piston 1/4 inch or more with a couple light taps using a piece of wood and hammer. I’m considering trying to move each cylinder just a bit. I’ve been soaking lifters and pistons now for a month or more.

 

mark

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Work on the pistons until they glide in the bores. It sounds like a lot of rust or dirt is stopping things. Is the cam frozen? Is the transmission or clutch seized? 

Edited by JFranklin (see edit history)

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Don’t know about transmission yet.  Working my way that way.  All I know is that it is neutral, because the car will roll.

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Sounds like a good Idea to move the pistons individually to find the tight ones and give them attention.   Usually it will be the pistons on the upstroke or associated with cylinders with open valves that will be more stubborn 

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