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1922 Oil pan removal


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Well,  I decided to drain my oil pan and remove it to clean it out today. When nothing came out of the drain, I knew it would be a mess inside. Removed the bell housing and I was amazed by the size of that flywheel.  What a monster!  Removed the pan and as expected the sludge was about 3/4” think.  The mice in Florida are just as you have all said,  made a huge nest in the bell housing/clutch.  

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Good for you. 

 

I’m always amazed at the number of people who will not do this simple task on a new acquisition. 

 

Clean the pick-up screen too. And since it is a common issue, I would pull the oil pump cover and check for deep grooving of the cover by the gears.  Resurface it if needed. 

 

Look up at the cam lobes too. Check for bad lobes or bad grooves in the lobes due to bad lifter roller. 

 

If you really want to know, grab the loosest rod cap and plasti-gauge it. Watch out for those small shims at the cap split line. 

Edited by Brian_Heil (see edit history)
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Thanks for the advice Brian.

 

I plan to try to clean the crank and cam as good as I can.  Still need to find out why it is still frozen up. I will do as you said with everything.  

 

Been soaking cylinders with marvel mystery oil first and atf second.  

 

Wonder if lifters are frozen?  I haven’t checked them yet. 

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I must have missed that you are working on a frozen engine.  Apologies.  

 

Pack your patience

 

Soak, soak and soak some more 

 

Did I mention you should soak?  Ha. Use whatever your favorite brew is.  I won’t get in that discussion either. 

 

Most common is the piston to bore.  

 

Second is valves in the cages so pop pushrods out of rockers to save bending a push rod. 

 

I’ve heard of starter generators locking up, I assume because they are external and can get moisture in there.  Same thing with lifters, I’ve heard of it but in an extreme case with other things frozen first/also. 

 

Work on the bores first and pop the pushrods. 

 

Does the clutch release?  The multi disc Buick clutch likes to lock up too with corrosion. 

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Another thing that can freeze is the water pump. Real easy to check, just remove the two hoses, and remove the one bolt on the bottom of the pump, should be 9/16. If the pump is not frozen you can now move the pump around the shaft. You don't have to remove the shaft or the taper pins or anything else. Just one bolt and 2 hoses.

 

Well, for 1918 anyway.

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10 hours ago, Mark Kikta said:

Morgan,

 

Thats exactly what I did.  Removed hoses and 2 mounting bolts so I could rotate water pump housing. Now I need to isolate the starter/gen.

 

Just turn on the ignition and see if the motor spins. It doesn't engage the flywheel by itself in these cars.

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Forgive me for mentioning it, but fill the six troughs before reinstalling the pan. You can add the remaining 6 qts once the pan is in place to help make it lighter when lifting it and not have a tidal wave of oil sloshing around. 

 

Where were the pin holes?

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4 hours ago, Mark Kikta said:

23hack,  where in Western Pa do you live?   All of my family was from Western, Pa. Uniontown, Connellsville area.

 

 

 

Brian,

 

Pinholes were just in front of the rear baffle. May call you today,

 

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Mark:

 Western PA was my stomping grounds for my first 29 years. I had relatives in Uniontown. I was originally from Monongahela.

 Now for the last 34 years in Chambersburg.

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Mark, I hate to say it, but mine was stuck for almost three years.  In the end it was just a slight bit of rust between the piston rings and the bores.  The previous owner had left the spark plugs out during storage and his container had a lot of moisture in it.  Every day I would squirt in more aft/acetone into the cylinders and press/jump on the hand crank, being careful to hold on to something so I would not fall over in case it let go.  Then one day the rust just gave up and the engine as free.  It was a very happy day indeed.  I really did not care about the time it took as there was always something else to do.  I guess the moral of this story is patience and do not harm.  Good luck.

 

 

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I took one bearing cap off the crank and one off of one rod.  Still had the shims on both and they came off easily.  I think it’s just the pistons that are stuck.  But I lightly tapped on the piston under side and it moved in the cylinder slightly.90795D52-255F-4EDA-B047-4E2747A5F8A9.thumb.jpeg.e8dc4409c0f8d3671acb62a7a713118f.jpeg

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I switched from Marvel Mystery Oil to ATF and acetone yesterday.  The bearings look dry because I sprayed them with brake clean to see how they cleaned up. I hope to get some plastigage and see what I get.  Does anyone know what the clearances should be?

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ATF and acetone don't mix. It makes no sense. No matter how hard you shake them before you pour it, the acetone separates out and floats on the top, and quickly evaporates. So all you have left after 10 minutes is ATF. What's the point of soaking in ATF/acetone mix for a week when the acetone is gone after 10 minutes? Use toluene instead of acetone, it mixes with ATF and is an extremely strong solvent of hydrocarbon resins, almost as good as acetone (nothing is as good as acetone).

 

Better yet, just use PB blaster. I don't know what's in it, but it's incredible. It even smells good.

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Ok thanks Morgan,

 

So far I have tried some Marvel Mystery oil first (which actually leaked by every piston), PB Blaster next which leaked by all the pistons also, straight ATF which has not leaked by any piston and yesterday ATF and Acetone which I have not checked on yet.

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Well I used the plastigage tonight and I believe the Rod bearing was .002 and the main bearing was .003.  Seems like since the rod bearing was just over 2 inches in diameter and the main was larger at 2.5 inches and maybe the bearings are not too bad.

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Mark, 

     Look up Pegasus drilled head bolts.  I barely had a lock washer in one of my wrist pins.  Wiring these in place is an easy upgrade.   You can't get a torque wrench in here.  They just need to be tight.  As for the main bearing caps, the person that line bored my engine said no more than 100 ft lbs.    Hugh

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2 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said:

Mark, 

     Look up Pegasus drilled head bolts.  I barely had a lock washer in one of my wrist pins.  Wiring these in place is an easy upgrade.   You can't get a torque wrench in here.  They just need to be tight.  As for the main bearing caps, the person that line bored my engine said no more than 100 ft lbs.    Hugh

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I like that idea.

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Took the oil piping off today and cleaned it.  Also took the oil pump off and cleaned it.  Number of screws holding the filter on were broken or rusted off.  Also screen on the bottom side is in bad shape.  Any ideas where I might find more of this screen material?

 

oil pump looks Ok I think too

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