Just Dropped The Oil Pan on My ‘26. Have some questions (With Pictures)

[DB26]

Hello everyone, Merry belated Christmas and Happy Early New Year. Tonight I took the advice of many on here and finally dropped the pan in my 1926 Dodge in order to clean out the sludge and get a baseline on engine health. I have to say, she looks pretty clean in the crankcase, but the pan has a good amount of sludge along with hard, brittle bits of I’m-not-sure-what. My main question so far is about the baffle in the oil pan. It appears to be welded in. Is that typical? And if so, I assume it’s going to be difficult to clean out. That is my project for tomorrow. (12/27)  I’m thinking of maybe trying to take it to get boiled out or something. Let me know your thoughts.

 

Oh and I forgot to add, another reason I dropped the pan was to fix the leaky oil float. It’s completely filled with oil, so if anyone has some good advice on how to repair that I would appreciate it. 

 

Here are the photos I have taken:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 27, 2018 by DB26 (see edit history)

[dwollam]

The baffle is soldered in. The pan is also galvanized. Do not hot tank it. Just wash it out good with parts washer or gas ( I didn't say that). Scrub around in it until clean. It will come clean.

Your float must be cracked. Probably best to find another one. Try Myersearlydodge.com or Romars. You may be able to use hot water and ice water to push the oil out of the float, then solder it up. You will have to research which to use 1st, the hot water or the ice water but the temp differential causes gas or oil the be expelled. I have watched it done but forgot which comes 1st. I'm thinking ice water, then hot water but not sure.

Good luck,

 

[Spinneyhill]

There is a layer of dirt inside the crankcase too, and probably inside other places as well.

[Alan Cutler]

How many miles/Km are on the motor? Are you considering a bottom end rebuild?

[nearchoclatetown]

The stuff DWollam suggested is still the best parts cleaner. If you don't want to use that try a can of cold oven cleaner. Don't be scarred. 

[DB26]

Thanks everyone. The speedometer reads 18,000 miles but I don’t think it’s accurate as the speedo gear is stripped out. After that’s it’s anyone’s guess. I wasn’t planning on doing a bottom rebuild. Just a clean and reassembly. 

[RichBad]

Hi, the sump baffle can be removed if you are good at riveting and soldering.  I started cleaning mine out with a few goes at degreasing, scrubbing and power washing.  Then decided I wanted to get it re galvanised so removed the baffle and there was still a decent layer of sludge below the baffle.  

It wasn’t that hard to refit the baffle, just 4 rivets on each side and then solder over the heads of the rivets to seal them.

[DB26]

Thanks. I ended up leaving it. Haven’t Honed the riveting and solderings skills yet. And all I have is a electrical soldering iron. Anyway, just got it cleaned out. I did the gasoline method AND finished off with oven cleaner. Seems like I got most of it out. Enough to make me happy. Finish was junky looking so I wire wheeled it and gave it a coat of black high heat paint. Somewhere down the road it’ll all come back out for a proper restoration. And correct colors. 

[David_Leech]

Took me a few hours of power washing to get all the muck out from under the baffles in my 28. High flow high pressure industrial power washer. Solvent tank wouldn't touch it. The stuff was like clay. 

[DB26]

15 minutes ago, David_Leech said:

Took me a few hours of power washing to get all the muck out from under the baffles in my 28. High flow high pressure industrial power washer. Solvent tank wouldn't touch it. The stuff was like clay. 

I guess I lucked out. Once I put the gas in it the stuff turned to soup. 

[dwollam]

You can buy cold galvanize in a spray can. Works pretty good.

[DB26]

Okay, I’ve run into a bit of a problem. I have everything installed and did my first test run today. I’ve got a pretty sizable leak at the rear flywheel housing. I haven’t taken the flywheel cover back off yet, but there’s a good steady steam coming from the weep hole below the flywheel. I thought I did my felts correctly but I’ll explain to you how I did them. The smaller shorter felt was placed on the bearing cap and held there with some gasket sealant. The larger longer felt was placed in the oil pan trough and cut to length. Bringing the top of the felts to the same level as the new oil pan gasket. What could I have done wrong? 

[RichBad]

Could well be the sump gasket around the oil flinger behind the rear bearing.  If the gasket in this area overhangs into the cavity it can prevent the oil flowing back into the sump resulting in a leak. 

 

Just found und a couple of pics Fromm Bob B which explain what I mean.

 

 

Edited December 29, 2018 by RichBad (see edit history)

[dwollam]

Are you sure those felts are not the ones that go on the "wings" at the rear of the pan? Shouldn't be 2 felts inside at the rear main. Nothing goes down inside a channel. I glue the felt to the main block with a dab of "sillycone" in the corners. it in turn is pushed against by a rib in the pan, so no sealer there.

 

[DB26]

15 minutes ago, dwollam said:

Are you sure those felts are not the ones that go on the "wings" at the rear of the pan? Shouldn't be 2 felts inside at the rear main. Nothing goes down inside a channel. I glue the felt to the main block with a dab of "sillycone" in the corners. it in turn is pushed against by a rib in the pan, so no sealer there.

 

This is my issue if I am reading you correctly. I called Myers and got instructions but must have misunderstood. I put two felts. One on the bearing cap and one in here:

 

 

I guess I’m back to sqare one. 

[RichBad]

Yes, that would do it as it would block the return tube resulting in oil overflowing out of the rear of the sump.  Here’s a picture of mine before the sump went on - slightly later model but I think the seal and sump gasket is very similar in this area.

 

i used sealant to ‘glue’ the felt to the rear bearing cap with a little extra in the corners to ensure it was oil tight.

 

[DB26]

Yes. That’s where I went wrong. I guess I’ll be doing this whole process all over again.  Live and learn I guess, and what’s another $50?  At least I can still move around and I really need to in the meantime  

[RichBad]

3 minutes ago, DB26 said:

Yes. That’s where I went wrong. I guess I’ll be doing this whole process all over again.  Live and learn I guess, and what’s another $50?  At least I can still move around and I really need to in the meantime  

It gets quicker and easier the second time around - trust me I know:). Think I had my sump on and off 3 times during my engine rebuild.  You may be able to re-use your gasket depending on the sealer you used.  I put a thin coating on silicone on the sump face and let it touch dry and then a coating on the block which I stick the gasket to.  When the sump is removed the gasket stays stuck to the block and comes away from the sump easily so can be reused.

[DB26]

Yes I think I can get it done in a matter of hours this time. Especially since the sludge is already gone. Haha. I just ordered my second gasket set from Myers. I’ll be doing this project after my 30th birthday in a few weeks. 

[MikeC5]

And dropping the oil pan on one of these is about as easy as it gets.  You don't even have to jack up the car....

[R.White]

When you come to replace the pan it can be a pain to keep the oil level indicator rod from dropping down.  I place a magnet by the small hole on the outside of the block to catch it if I don't have someone to hold the end of the indicator rod as it appears.  

Edited January 1, 2019 by R.White (see edit history)

[DB26]

On 1/1/2019 at 7:46 AM, R.White said:

When you come to replace the pan it can be a pain to keep the oil level indicator rod from dropping down.  I place a magnet by the small hole on the outside of the block to catch it if I don't have someone to hold the end of the indicator rod as it appears.  

Good idea. I’ll be fixing my booboo this afternoon. Wish me luck. 

[DB26]

Well, the second attempt appears to be a success. No new leaks this time. Thanks everyone for your help.

 

I do have a question about the amount of oil to add to the engine. According to the mechanics handbook it takes 5-6 quarts of oil and the oil float should be at least 1/2 inch above the flat surface:

 

 

 

And here is what my engine  looks like after adding 4 quarts of oil:

 

 

Should I run it with the 4 quarts or go ahead and add the final quart?  With the 4 everything seems to be running smoothly and oil pressure is present. 

 

[R.White]

Just my opinion (so please don't assume I know anything for sure) but I think the rod should always remain somewhere between the two rectangular markers cast into the block as guides.

 

I notice that your oil indicator rod emerges between cylinders 1 and 2 .  Mine is between 2 and 3.  I hadn't noticed that before.  You can just see the rod behind the carb.

Ray

Edited January 7, 2019 by R.White (see edit history)

[nearchoclatetown]

You are at the bare minimum with the rod at that height. Depending on the year of your engine there is either an aluminum or steel cap that belongs on top of the rod. The early ones were threaded and later ones press fit. 

[DB26]

Thank you. I have added the remaining oil. It’s news to me about the oil indicator being in different spots. I wonder why they changed the design. And I had no idea about the cap that goes onto the rod. I’ll have to look out for one. 

[nearchoclatetown]

I have some pictures of what they look like, will see if I can find them. The basically look like a little hat, flat on top, about 5/8 inch diameter. I don't think the parts book shows when they changed, but you can them in the early Books of information. 

[MikeC5]

I don't think I've ever seen the cap either...

[dwollam]

On 1/7/2019 at 3:44 PM, nearchoclatetown said:

You are at the bare minimum with the rod at that height. Depending on the year of your engine there is either an aluminum or steel cap that belongs on top of the rod. The early ones were threaded and later ones press fit. 

Is that right Doug? A cap on top of the rod? I have never seen a cap on any of the pile of engines I have or anyone else's either! Something to look into I guess?

 

[dbbob]

Found on the web . . .

 

[nearchoclatetown]

David and others, check the top of the rod, there are threads on early ones. At least until about 1918 they used the aluminum ones that threaded on. I have only seen a few. I have cast some new ones but the correct tap is impossible to find, may be 5 X 46 or 48. I forget but I know I looked in every catalog I have and no one makes the tap. I even checked into having one ground but gave up as it's expensive. After about 1918 they went to the pressed on steel one like is pictured above. They are very light in weight. I am guessing most of them vibrated loose and fell off along the road. That will be something to look for when you go for a walk. The weight is something to keep in mind when substituting with a rivet. 

[dwollam]

I don't have any 1918 or earlier engines or cars so no issue there! I will do some looking in my parts and pieces and in books and see what I can find. Thanks Doug.

[Mpgp1999]

I am replacing the oil pan gasket. I have 5 pieces plus the rear bearing felt. I am not sure where the three long felts go 

[stakeside]

Great help for my rebuild. I have a 1929 DB DA-6 and the rear sump looks similar to RichBad thread comment.

Edited March 25, 2020 by stakeside
E (see edit history)

[DB26]

12 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said:

I am replacing the oil pan gasket. I have 5 pieces plus the rear bearing felt. I am not sure where the three long felts go 

If I’m not mistaken. Those extra Pieces are for the one piece Oil pan on older models. With the flywheel / clutch inspection cover cast with the pan instead of a separate piece. If your inspection cover is separate you don’t need these felts. 

[Mpgp1999]

Great thanks. I installed it yesterday. I used shellac gasket sealer to hold the rubberized cork on the pan and on the rear main felt. I put some oil on the block so the gasket can come off easily next time.

[stakeside]

After a closer look at my DA-6 engine it appears different then RichBad photo. The rear main appears different. 

I was given a 5/16”x5/16”x8” felt strip. Does it fit in the 1/2” groove. Note the 1/4” wide edge on the oil pan.

 

 

[RichBad]

Matt will probably have a few photos showing this as he’s just assembling his engine (although at the rate he goes it’s probably due for its first oil change now:)).

 

i don’t think the felt goes in that groove but may be wrong - I think the 6 still has a knife edge flinger on the back of the crank and you’d want that to be clear.  I think the felt goes on the bearing cap and seals on the thinner lip in the sump.

 

This photo shows a cross section

 

 

[Mattml430]

That’s exactly where it goes Rich. 
I had to trim it slightly to fit but going by the manual it must be glued to the bearing cap. You’ll also see on the sump where there is some Tin on its edge that fits tightly into the felt strip as you do the bolts up on the oil pan. 
I used permatex gasket silicone. 

[Mark Gregush]

Suggest only gluing the pan gasket to ether the pan or the block not both. A smear of grease on the other side should be good enough to seal. In the Ford Model T world, there is a felt seal between the transmission cover and back of block. What many of us do is; work something like right stuff or other gasket silicone into the felt before installing.