Mark Kikta Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 So after taking the front wheel off I was expecting to see some sort of bearing cage. Instead I saw these large ball bearings that were not in a cage. I can see how to get the front ones out, but I was hoping someone could tell me the best way to get the rear ones out without trashing what appears to be a flat washer with the felt behind it. The old grease that I scraped out of the cavity was like tar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 (edited) Mark, Old school installation and holding the felt in place by staking the metal retainer. I used a slide hammer and internal 3 jaw puller on mine. It bends the metal up, but you can reflatten the seal parts with a hammer. If you stay with felt, then you have to go thru this process each time you repack the bearings. The alternative is to install a modern lip seal. The lip seal photo is compliments of Kevin Roner and his 1925 Buick Master. You destroy a modern lip seal removing it, but just purchase a new one. Alternatively on installation if you stayed with felt, you could use a Permatex product to hold the old lip seal in place instead of staking it. If you are lucky, the races are still good. I was able to find one NOS inner bearing assembly for my Standard on Ebay (the other was good), but the outer races are no longer available. Your early 6 cylinder is a Master in Buick Speak, so it takes different wheel bearings than for my Standard . For reference I am attaching the bushing that I made, and the roller bearings that I will be using to replace the outer ball bearings. Be cautious purchasing these wheel bearings. There is a company in Europe that claimed to have bearings as I sent them a quote and they responded back saying they had 2 of them. I looked up their company name and they are a scam. If no one has your bearings in the US, they are likely not in Europe either. Hugh Edited December 27, 2018 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Kikta Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 Hugh, In can see the staking in 3 locations. Would happen to have a seal part number that work? I would much rather switch to a modern lip seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 (edited) Mark, I edited my posting above. You can read the dimensions on the seal that Kevin used. See my seal and search using the dimensions 60/100/10 (then verify this is correct before you order.) For my seal, I have to add a pass or 2 of electrical tape as I have an odd size. Hugh Edited December 27, 2018 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Mark, This is my technical paper to help you out. I had started on this but never finished it because I have not put my wheels back on yet. I still need to pinstripe them. It has been a long time since I started on this, and I think there are more good notes in this that will help you out. Hugh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Mark, This would really be a good time to convert the front hubs over to Timken Tapered Roller Bearings. My Dad did that in the Winter of 1963/64 when he rebuilt the whole front end on the 1916 D-45 that I have now. He used the big felt seals like the original ones were because he was able to get 2 NOS ones from the old Maupin Auto Salvage here in Hutchinson. Just something to think about. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cxgvd Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Mark; Terry is correct, replace with modern tapered bearings, no good reason not to and these steer the car, think safety. I've done this upgrade twice. The first time I brought the spindles and wheels with hubs to a restoration shop and they did the whole job. Engineering the job, finding the bearings and seals and the machining to make the front axle ready for the road. Fairly expensive though not outrageous. The second time I brought the spindles and wheels to a local bearing shop and they measured all the parts and matched up the modern tapered bearings from available supply. I had to have a bearing sleeve made to fit the each hub. I also replaced the old with new modern roller bearings in the driveshaft and rear axle as well but that is another story. Just something to think about, Gary 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 (edited) Here is a link to an older post of mine on wheel bearings. I last packed these bearings for my 1500 mile tour to the 2017 BCA National in Milwaukee, BCA PWD After Tour and return drive home around Lake Michigan. (We never had an issue, wheel bearing or otherwise) and these front bearings looked great in 2017 when I inspected and packed them. Edited December 27, 2018 by Brian_Heil (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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