drewdrew26 Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 Hi guys, I am new to this forum. Have any of you built cars using Dynacorn's reproduction bodies? I am interested in building a 1969 Camero. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 (edited) I've had several vehicles with Dynacorn bodies (a '67 Mustang and a Bronco) and the quality was quite good. The guys who built them said that it was nice having all virgin sheetmetal to work with and that for the most part, the quality was good. Their biggest complaints were that sometimes OEM or repro parts from other manufacturers don't fit very well--it seems that Dynacorn uses Dynacorn parts for their tooling so your NOS fenders or hood might not fit without some tweaking on the reproduction body. The second thing--and they ALL griped about this--was that they had no idea how many little parts they would need to buy to make it complete. When you start with a complete car, you have all the little clips and fasteners and tacking strips and what-not that you will need to put it back together. When you start with a bare shell, you get none of that, so not only do you have to track all that down, you don't have a guide to even tell you what you need. An assembly manual can be invaluable in this regard, but they still said that they spent more time and money than expected tracking down all that little stuff that they needed and it added up to a substantial chunk of change that they didn't expect to spend. Even if you're not going 100% stock, you'll still need a lot of those little parts, which definitely add up. The guy who did the Bronco said he'd probably just use a factory truck in the future, no matter how rusty, just because he can fix the rust for less than it cost to buy all that stuff that he would have gotten with a complete vehicle. Of course, a Bronco is made out of flat sheets of metal, so rust repairs aren't as big a deal as with something more complex like a Camaro. Anyway, the quality is good, the virgin steel is nice, but be prepared to do some parts hunting and an extra expense that you may not have considered. Hope this helps! Edited December 24, 2018 by Matt Harwood (see edit history) 10 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 35 minutes ago, drewdrew26 said: Hi guys, I am new to this forum. Have any of you built cars using Dynacorn's reproduction bodies? I am interested in building a 1969 Camero. A piece of advice. When you go to register it, you might want to spell it correctly... 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 I once had a chance to buy a complete body shell, on rolling frame, 1955 Chevrolet. Body done and painted, no engine or trans, no interior, nothing, and I mean nothing, but rolling frame and body shell, with fenders and hood. No trim, no glass, nothing. When I started adding up all the big and little pieces needed, as mentioned, the finished cost would have been way over value of car then. Matt gives good advice. Find a good original car to start with and you'll be ahead of the game..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Block Posted December 24, 2018 Share Posted December 24, 2018 even bad original car might make a great parts car for all the odds and ends you need to make it right. I just check it out and they have 1967/68 Mustang fastback I loves and drove from 1970-1979. less hood scoop. Look like a 67 Shelby style scoop to me. Sure make be wonder about building one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewdrew26 Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 23 hours ago, Matt Harwood said: I've had several vehicles with Dynacorn bodies (a '67 Mustang and a Bronco) and the quality was quite good. The guys who built them said that it was nice having all virgin sheetmetal to work with and that for the most part, the quality was good. Their biggest complaints were that sometimes OEM or repro parts from other manufacturers don't fit very well--it seems that Dynacorn uses Dynacorn parts for their tooling so your NOS fenders or hood might not fit without some tweaking on the reproduction body. The second thing--and they ALL griped about this--was that they had no idea how many little parts they would need to buy to make it complete. When you start with a complete car, you have all the little clips and fasteners and tacking strips and what-not that you will need to put it back together. When you start with a bare shell, you get none of that, so not only do you have to track all that down, you don't have a guide to even tell you what you need. An assembly manual can be invaluable in this regard, but they still said that they spent more time and money than expected tracking down all that little stuff that they needed and it added up to a substantial chunk of change that they didn't expect to spend. Even if you're not going 100% stock, you'll still need a lot of those little parts, which definitely add up. The guy who did the Bronco said he'd probably just use a factory truck in the future, no matter how rusty, just because he can fix the rust for less than it cost to buy all that stuff that he would have gotten with a complete vehicle. Of course, a Bronco is made out of flat sheets of metal, so rust repairs aren't as big a deal as with something more complex like a Camaro. Anyway, the quality is good, the virgin steel is nice, but be prepared to do some parts hunting and an extra expense that you may not have considered. Hope this helps! I am most likely going to make this Camaro a street ride that can also be driven on a track (on rare occasions). I would prefer not to deal with rust, which is why I am leaning towards using Dynacorn reproduction bodies. How much do you think I am expected to spend? Would this build be around $100,000? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 If you have $100,000 to spend, buy a finished car. 10 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lump Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 On 12/25/2018 at 6:11 PM, Matt Harwood said: If you have $100,000 to spend, buy a finished car. Well said, Matt! I DEFINITELY second that advice. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lump Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 (edited) Another thought about these all-metal aftermarket bodies... I've seen steel repro bodies assembled by OTHER companies at cheaper prices...with terrible results. For example, one Camaro body which I went to look at for a friend-of-a-friend who was having trouble and asked my opinion. That car's passenger side door bottom had so much clearance between the door sill and the door that you could see light right through it. I have no idea what he must have done to solve that problem. In my opinion there are still so many original Camaro cars and bodies out there for sale at reasonable prices, and there are several competent professionals who can take out ALL the rusty components and replace them with very good quality sheet metal. Then you end up with a legitimate, unquestionable title and an original VIN on the car, plus all the minor pieces which Matt mentioned above. You will still be able to start out from there with no rust. Edited December 30, 2018 by lump (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lump Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 (edited) Over a long career in and around the muscle car hobby and the industry which serves it, I have often wished that I could fully communicate one critical fact about reproduction sheet metal body panels: THERE ARE MULTIPLE MANUFACTURERS OF A LARGE MAJORITY OF THESE PANELS, and MANY DIFFERENT LEVELS OF QUALITY! The fact is, hobbyists often set themselves up for disappointment when they order these parts, BECAUSE OF THE WAY THEY SHOP! EXAMPLE: Joe Shopper wants a new replacement cowl-style hood for his first generation Camaro. So, he finds ads in HEMMINGS or online, and starts calling around checking prices. After calling about a dozen sources, he finally finds the lowest cost for the part itself plus the shipping. But when his new hood arrives he is disappointed with the quality. Then you can hear him griping about the quality of ALL reproduction parts. This drives me crazy! What Joe Shopper failed to understand is that right now, there are AT LEAST 5 different manufacturers of that same hood. Quality varies significantly. But since Joe bought based on final cost alone, he got the worst version on the market. Had he done some research, he would have learned that at least two manufacturers out there make a much better Camaro Fresh Air hood than the others...although their prices are not the cheapest. The same is true about so many reproduction parts for many types of more popular collector cars (I refer to Chevy's and some GM cars, plus Fords from the fifties thru the early 1970's, and Mopars from the early 60's thru the early 70's, etc). Items like emblems, upholstery, weatherstripping, sheet metal, glass, etc, are available from different makers at different levels of quality. Before you make major purchases of reproduction parts, join a club which is focused on your car type, and start asking for advice and opinions, including brand names. Another recommendation is, once you have found a retailer that you feel you can trust, ASK them if there is more than one brand available of the part you are seeking, and ask them if there is a difference in quality. Retailers aren't really to blame for selling the lower quality parts, when you see things from their perspective. You see, when Joe Shopper calls around checking prices, a retailer knows he will lose the sale if he can't quote a really competitive price. In truth, retailers often will actually make a little more profit when they sell the better quality parts (with slightly higher prices), since the percentages are often the same. But, too many folks like ol' Joe Shopper just call lots of places and then place their order the lowest price. Retailers are afraid they might lose an entire large order because the price they quoted for a major item like a Camaro hood was higher than their competition. You can't really blame the manufacturers either. They know that there are some customers who are price-driven, period. Some guys just want to do a "mop-n-glow" job on a car and dump it at a profit. They will only buy the cheapest parts. Other customers want the very best part they can find. So various manufacturers compete in whatever fashion they think will help them to survive and grow. It is the responsibility of we hobbyists to research and educate ourselves before we buy such reproduction car parts. Edited December 30, 2018 by lump (see edit history) 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 (edited) Got to share a story with everyone that I think you’ll get a laugh out of. I’ve got a very decent 60’s era low miles car in my front yard that I’m selling. While it’s not rust free it has some small areas of rot in the very bottom of one rear quarter and some pin holes on the door skins. Had a guy stop to look at it and he told me he restored a lot of cars then proceeded to tell me the car was junk claiming the whole rear quarter and the doors needed to be replaced. I immediately questioned why would he want to replace almost perfect OEM doors because of a few pin holes and replace a full quarter when only a small area below the very bottom crease needed a patch welded in.(this car doesn’t have a dent or a ding on it anywhere) He preceded to explain that I didn’t really understand the work involved in restoring a car. So I politely said I felt I did understand and that nothing is as good as an OEM door and repops are not even close. A little tig welding of the pin holes and some light body work was easy compared to all the work required in a aftermarket door. Same thing on the patch. When he continued to say how he’s worked on many cars and there was a ton more work than I thought, he repeated that I just didn’t understand and only some one who’s restored a car would know. So, I told him to follow me into my garage and explained to him that I had a pretty good idea what a restoration entails. I described and showed him the work I do and suddenly he tried to become a little more friendly and admitted he was basically looking to get a deal on the car and that he’s not that skilled in the finer points like welding and installing metal replacement panels. He said that his offer technique often scares the sellers into giving a better price and said “I know you know what I mean if you play with cars”. So it turns out he likes no rust so he can simply switch out components that can be replaced and he has no issue in trying to scam a person possibly out of money they really need. Yes, I like a good price but I’m also ethical about how I go about making an offer, especially with a seller who might not know what they have. He then preceded to show me a few pictures of the cars he’s done and sold. One was a car that his relatives wanted when he was done but he told them that the car wasn’t for them and admitted that he simply put bondo over the rusted out areas and his restoration was only a “good for 6 months” one! And this guy was telling me I know nothing about restoring a car! As what’s been said, starting with an original car is always the best. Edited January 1, 2019 by chistech (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy Zimmerman Sr Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 Now let me think about what I've read here. He doesn't know how to spell Camaro but he's going to build one. He doesn't want to have to work with rust, probably because he can't; and out of the blue he wants to know if a 100 grand will build his Camero/Camaro. Now I'll admit that I'm only 70 years old, so I know I am still young and yet without understanding; but something tells me that we are dealing with a very young dreamer here. Most, even young car guys know how to spell Camaro by the age of 13 or so. You keep on dreaming dude, the hardest part is going to be producing the 100 grand. However, dreams do come true if you stick to your guns and make them happen. I'm sure every car guy on this forum has a dream parked in his garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avanti Bill Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 I think you should lighten up on the guy a little bit. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 " has a dream parked in his garage. " - no, just toys. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy Zimmerman Sr Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 I'm sorry Avanti, it wasn't my intention to ruffle anyone's feathers. I just found his statements humorous. It actually reminded me of me when I was a kid. My dad raced professionally & I had 3 older brothers, so I was reading car magazines ever since I learned to read & I've been a car guy long as I can remember in my childhood. It just didn't add up to me as adult comments & I kinda got a kick out of it. His comments reminded me of something I might have said along about the age of 12 or 13. I thought his comments were humorous & intended mine in a like manner. (I.E./ I'm 70 years old & I know I am young & yet without understanding). It wasn't my intention to offend you, him or anyone. We all see life in different ways & I suppose I've always looked at a lot of life as humorous. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy Zimmerman Sr Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Yeah Padgett, those dreams when I was young became my toys as I got older & could afford them. My kid's & grandkids know they are going to inherit my toys when I pass on & sometimes it makes me wonder if they are checking on me to make sure I'm okay or are they checking on me to see how close they are to their pick of the car litter. LOL.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 FYI, this thread is 18 months old... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommy Zimmerman Sr Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Well you & everyone here gave drew drew good advice far as I'm concerned. I just happened upon the forum today & this was the first conversations that popped up. It put a smile on my face & brought back some good memories. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Studemax Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 1 hour ago, plymouthcranbrook said: So you are saying the OP by now already has his $100000 Camero? Not a chance. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Kingsley Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 I think somebody should make "Camero" badges and see if anyone notices at car shows. Perfect for repro bodies! Of course, I can be a little devious sometimes. 1 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Camero? Wasn’t that the guy who played the joker in the original Batman series, Caesar Camero!🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1912Staver Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Another distortion of reality that effects younger or newer to the hobby people are the car oriented TV shows. Often a very distorted look into the process of building / restoring hobby cars. Greg in Canada Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 20 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said: Where did you get that image Matt? Looks like one from the protests. 😏 The guy in the car was just trying to get to work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 (edited) On 6/15/2020 at 4:04 PM, Avanti Bill said: I think you should lighten up on the guy a little bit. Why, if you can't even spell your "dream". You can look up correct spelling on line easier the (should have read than) {Thanks to Avanti Bill for the notification} it used to be to look up an unknown spelling in a dictionary. Edited June 17, 2020 by Guest (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avanti Bill Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 7 hours ago, Tinindian said: Why, if you can't even spell your "dream". You can look up correct spelling on line easier the it used to be to look up an unknown spelling in a dictionary. I assume you intended "then" instead of "the", unfortunately spell check can't fix everything! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 1 hour ago, Avanti Bill said: I assume you intended "then" instead of "the", unfortunately spell check can't fix everything! Mea Culpa, Mea Culpa, Mea Maxima Culpa. Thank you for your observation and correction Avanti Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Luddy Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 I've seen a few Dynacorn builds and they look pretty good to me. A friend is building a Chevelle convertible now after doing a Camaro coupe and he loves them. Being here in Ontario Canada rusted cars are a huge problem. I'm on the fence right now with my current 70 Chevelle. As I type this my hands are quite sore and more than a few cuts from freeing up rusty bolts and removing rusty parts. Found more hidden rust than I hoped for. Not so much fun as a senior! But as I was scoping out the cost of a Dynacorn I found a decent 71 shell and frame this week that needs far less than mine. Going to ponder that one for a few days while my hands heal up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OntarioRetiree Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 > A friend is building a Chevelle convertible now after doing a Camaro coupe and he loves them. Being here in Ontario Canada Ed, I tried to message you but I'm new, so sorry about replying to such and old thread. I'm planning my first retirement project, and its a 1965 mustang fastback. I don't want to deal with rust, so leaning towards a replica/rebuilt via Dynacorn. There's been some confusion online as to the last MTO registration handbook details on registration: i.e. : 2016 ESC (Electronic Stability Control) requirment for "manufactured" vehicles after sep 2011.http://www.svao.org/kitcars.html hasn't had an update but the general consensus online seems to be "manufactured" is defined as "produced on a large scale using machinery." From what I can tell a full Dynacorn replica will be either a home built or kit car in Ontario and will get VIN based on that, and since these are home built they should be exempt from the ESC requirements as it is not a "manufactured" vehicle. What did you friend do to register their dynacorn replicas? Any headaches with MTO or insurance? I'd hate to build this thing and find out after the fact its not registerable or insurable in Ontario. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1912Staver Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 The majority of the ones I have heard of use an existing, usually very rusty or seriously crash damaged , Mustang as a starting point. The Dynacorn body is treated as a replacement part for the existing , registered car. Definitely a bit of a gray area if you can replace the entire body shell and have it still legally considered the same car. It has been done many times in the past , but I doubt motor vehicles is 100% aware of what has taken place. Not just things like Dynacorn bodies. Tons of seriously rusted , valuable British cars have been rebodied over the years. Take a very rusty , Toronto ,1967 Mini Cooper S , buy a regular , rust free , standard Mini 1000 in Texas for example . Bring them both home to your shop in Ontario and completely dismantle both. Reassemble using the Texas shell , and all the correct Cooper parts from your rusty S. It has been done many times. Shelby Mustangs, Ford Lotus Cortina's , and many others. You don't just send a 1966 Shelby in for scrap because it is rusty to the point the shell is breaking in two. The car is rebodied , and lives for another 56 years. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rivguy Posted April 2, 2022 Share Posted April 2, 2022 I don' know why it bothers some people when a thread is resurrected. Threads aren't automatically deleted after a time, so a search will bring up an old thread and put front and center after a new comment is added. I hadn't seen this thread until today. You can only read so many threads in a day. I imagine that trying to build a complete new body car would be challenging. I worked in an auto assembly plant and there were miles of assembly lines with stations adding thousands of parts. I suppose some professional builders start with a production example as a blueprint There's a shop s/o San Jose in Morgan Hill that builds up new/old Mustangs. I suppose that they have built up a bank of experience. It's my understanding that complete new parts/ construction vehicle would have to be registered in Ca. as a kit car or if the original VIN was used from a totalled car it might have to be a reconstructed salvage car. Either title would not be that attractive to a buyer. I would not mess with using a VIN from one car, on another, I'm too old to spend any time in prison! I think that the first thing to do is talk with the VIN officer at your local office of the CHP (or whatever agency has jurisdiction in your state) before you would even start the process. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1912Staver Posted April 3, 2022 Share Posted April 3, 2022 There have been several hundred Westfield 7 and 11 kits made . { Lotus 7 and Lotus 11 } The kit is designed to use a MG Midget donor car. The rebodied car just assumes the identity of the donor car. Several other body / chassis kits use the same method. Look at these cars on Bring a Trailer, nearly always the write up will state the car is titled as a 1960' s / 70 's MG . Same as the better MG T series replica's . They normally use a rusty MGB as a donor. And they will almost always use the identity of that MGB , virtually never titled as a new construction. A 1950's looking car probably couldn't even even be titled as a new construction for safety and emissions reasons. Same as all the Fiberglass 1960' s / 70's kit cars. They are almost always titled as the TR3, Austin Healey, or MGA starting point car used in their construction. Some retain the British chassis , but many have a fabricated frame and upgraded suspension. It's been done hundreds if not thousands of times. Like I said in my previous post, in some States it may be a bit of a gray area of the law. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1912Staver Posted April 3, 2022 Share Posted April 3, 2022 31 minutes ago, John Smeltzer said: So I found this 69 Camaro at the local junkyard is it a fixer or a donor car for a replacement body Could easily be either. All the sheet metal is available , piece by piece as a fixer. Or a Dynacorn body would do the same in 1/2 or less time. Mostly comes down to a person's ability and if they want to be able to legitimately claim the finished car isn't a re- body. If the car is a particularly rare version , a factory C.O.P.O. for example most people would want to keep as much of the original shell as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Luddy Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 On 4/1/2022 at 3:07 PM, OntarioRetiree said: > A friend is building a Chevelle convertible now after doing a Camaro coupe and he loves them. Being here in Ontario Canada Ed, I tried to message you but I'm new, so sorry about replying to such and old thread. I'm planning my first retirement project, and its a 1965 mustang fastback. I don't want to deal with rust, so leaning towards a replica/rebuilt via Dynacorn. There's been some confusion online as to the last MTO registration handbook details on registration: i.e. : 2016 ESC (Electronic Stability Control) requirment for "manufactured" vehicles after sep 2011.http://www.svao.org/kitcars.html hasn't had an update but the general consensus online seems to be "manufactured" is defined as "produced on a large scale using machinery." From what I can tell a full Dynacorn replica will be either a home built or kit car in Ontario and will get VIN based on that, and since these are home built they should be exempt from the ESC requirements as it is not a "manufactured" vehicle. What did you friend do to register their dynacorn replicas? Any headaches with MTO or insurance? I'd hate to build this thing and find out after the fact its not registerable or insurable in Ontario. My friend sold his cars with all the original documents of the donor cars, VIN tags and Dynacorn paperwork that came with the new reproduction body. Both went out of province to the USA I think. I'm still hammering away on my original body! It's getting close to drivable, then sellable. I'll never do that again. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenie Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 I guess if you’re in Kansas you can now rivet the VIN plate right on that Dynacorn body and go. Seriously, there have been a few occasions where high dollar muscle cars have undergone this treatment and then offered for sale as restored original cars. There will always be ways for knowledgeable folks to detect this- so check with your State’s MVA first- and be upfront with any potential buyer. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8E45E Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 On 6/15/2020 at 11:01 PM, Billy Kingsley said: I think somebody should make "Camero" badges and see if anyone notices at car shows. There are re-pop Buick hubcaps with the 'U' in 'BUICK' inverted to evade copyright issues. Maybe you can make re-pop Camaro scripts with an 'e' instead of an 'a'. Craig 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAKerry Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 I guess this will go on as an age old question. At some point even as close as the next owner a rebodied car will become legit. I replaced the quarter panels on my car and dont consider it truly an original car. If I ever get to my next project in line it will need everything. BUT, I think that the car is worth putting back on the road. A full body would be nice but I can afford one piece at a time and I would know that its a replacement. Doesnt make sense in my head either way, but what the heck. I doubt I will ever be in the market to purchase a high end car but I would do the best I could to ensure that it was originally put together by GM or Ford or whatever. I have heard the comment on the auction shows 'all original sheet metal', but rarely. I would suspect most of the cars have more new than old in them. As far as body swaps, there was a 69 trans am for sale a few years ago that literally looked like it had gone through the crusher. BUT it came with the vin tag and title. Asking price was something like $50K. I am sure that it is a brand new condition car by now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 On 6/15/2020 at 5:38 PM, Tommy Zimmerman Sr said: I'm sure every car guy on this forum has a dream parked in his garage. I am pretty sure I have known some 70 and 80 year olds who never had a dream in their life. Been pretty good at staying well away from them and encourage the youth to do the same. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8E45E Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 4 hours ago, TAKerry said: I replaced the quarter panels on my car and don't consider it truly an original car. If I ever get to my next project in line it will need everything. BUT, I think that the car is worth putting back on the road.. Many years ago, I was in a Mazda showroom, and the staff were applying "RX-3" stripes on a brand new coupe on each side between each wheel well; a few inches of the front fender, the door, and the rear quarter panel. They used thin masking tape as a guide to properly ensure the height was parallel with the rocker panel molding a few inches below where these stripes were being applied. Once they applied the stripes on the passenger side, one of the staff peeled off the masking tape, and some of the new paint came off the rear quarter and the door with it. One of them said, "this must have been the car that was repaired after if was damaged in Vancouver.", referring to the loading docks. Apparently, the right door was replaced, and a minor repair was done to the quarter panel before it got shipped to the dealer. Even an unsold new car can have replacement panels on it. Craig 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrumBob Posted April 7, 2022 Share Posted April 7, 2022 On 12/24/2018 at 3:25 PM, joe_padavano said: A piece of advice. When you go to register it, you might want to spell it correctly... Bruce Springsteen made the same mistake when he wrote the song, "Racing In The Streets." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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