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89Chryslerati

Cv shaft ??

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I'm trying to replace the CV shaft on the right side.. how do I separate it from the intermediate shaft? We cannot get it to come out! Thanks in advance!

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Mount the intermediate shaft in a vice with protective covers over the clamping surfaces if you wish to protect the tube from the jaw marks. Lock it down so it shoulders against the U-Joint flange in order to keep the shaft from moving horizontally. If mounted in the vice as the shaft is laid out in the picture, this would be for a right handed person to use a punch about on inch in diameter and a good sized sledge hammer. You would be driving the housing out in a leftward direction. Place the punch against the tripod housing and swing away. The housing will slowly come out of the splines in the intermediate shaft. If you manage to move it a little, try penetrating oil into the splined hole in the intermediate shaft.

If the person swinging the hammer is left handed, reverse the mounting position of the intermediate shaft, driving the housing to the right.

Pound the tripod housing back in then out again, in, out, continue spraying more penetrating fluid on the emerging shaft which is what is stuck inside the splined hole. 

Eventually you will get the housing out.  It takes patience and perseverance so don't loose your temper. It is frankly a P.I.A, I know, having been in the business over fifty (50) years.

Verify that the universal joint is in good condition prior to reassembly.

Clean the interior surface of the hole as best you can, then apply grease on the surfaces in the hole. Put a little grease on the new shaft as it is inserted AFTER first mounting the intermediate shaft into the transaxle and bolting up the support bracket to the engine block. 

By now, I have done everything short of the labor itself. Good luck and at this time of year, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all readers.

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2 hours ago, Bill Reichert said:

Five pound hammer?  I used that for attitude adjustments on troublesome pianos.  (driving new tuning pins)😎

You are funny Bill. I recommend a hammer as heavy as the 'swinger' can manage! DON'T HIT YOUR THUMB 👍😫

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Life is too short to not enjoy.  I'm the Looneytuner on T-M and TD.  There was a guy on TD that used to make the younguns cry when they asked a silly question. Glad you are nicer!  Guess what these fit?  Need a set of titanium rods for a 2.2?

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6 hours ago, Bill Reichert said:

Is it Volvo that has a new electric compressor to mimize the turbo lag on their cars? 

For 2019, VOLVO cars are supposed to be ALL ELECTRIC. No more gasoline engines.  So when someone asks "What motor do you have in your Volvo?" A Volvo owner can say 'Electric'.and spout off the voltage and other vital specs.

 

By the way, turbo lag is not universal, if you build the engine and system right. There is NONE in my 85 Laser. 

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We hammered the sh-- out of it with no luck. I also asked this question on the TC Facebook page I think I'm going to just toss it & put in the longer shaft.

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3 hours ago, 89Chryslerati said:

We hammered the sh-- out of it with no luck. I also asked this question on the TC Facebook page I think I'm going to just toss it & put in the longer shaft.

You might not like the results.....  You will end up with TORQUE-STEER on heavy acceleration. It may not be too bad until the engine reaches 2500 RPM, that's when you will feel it.

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Bill...I don't see titanium rods, I see Koni's. BUT, I wouldn't mind seeing titanium rods. Something I've wanted for one of my builds for a long time.

 

Hemi, Volvo committed to phasing out ICE's this year, but they aren't dropping them completely until early in the 2020's from what I remember of the press releases.

 

As for torque steer is concerned, this is more of a function of sloppy suspension and a crap alignment. Yeah, there's SOME induced by a longer shaft on one side, but it's not significant if all else is good. A vast majority of the really fast TM guys run unequal length shafts. Less stuff to go wrong.

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8 hours ago, Reaper1 said:

Bill...I don't see titanium rods, I see Koni's. BUT, I wouldn't mind seeing titanium rods. Something I've wanted for one of my builds for a long time.

 

Hemi, Volvo committed to phasing out ICE's this year, but they aren't dropping them completely until early in the 2020's from what I remember of the press releases.

 

As for torque steer is concerned, this is more of a function of sloppy suspension and a crap alignment. Yeah, there's SOME induced by a longer shaft on one side, but it's not significant if all else is good. A vast majority of the really fast TM guys run unequal length shafts. Less stuff to go wrong.

Do you remember the turbocharged Dodge and Plymouth COLT cars of the late '70s? When you drove one of them, brand new, and got on it from a standing start or at speed, there was a very definite TORQUE STEER in those cars. That is what comes to mind.

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I absolutely believe you! Our cars in stock form with stock alignment do on-power torque steer pretty bad. No arguments. The equal length half shafts were an attempt to apply the same amount of angularity to each side to equal out the forces on the wheels to help this issue. It works decently.

 

Not that I suggest this for the TC, because it's a luxury GT type car, but if you use stiff engine mounts it prevents the engine from rocking around and changing the angle of the shafts. Same with the control arm bushings. Keep stuff from being able to be affected by the forces and it will minimize the changes on the wheel. Of course this adds a LOT of NVH, so...gotta pick your battles! LOL

 

The easiest and best thing to do, besides making sure the mounts/bushings are good, is a better wheel alignment. The stock alignment is garbage. I run -.5* to -1* camber and 1/16" to 1/8" total toe OUT in the front. This improves the handling and turn in of the car and helps with torque steer. Because it improves turn-in, however, the car does tend to be more reactive to road imperfections, so that can make the car feel "darty". Personally, I like it. In my Daytona with the Quaife style differential you HAVE to be aware of this if you get on it....otherwise it'll put you in a ditch FAST! It goes where the tires are pointed...period.

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I don't know what torque steer is but I have yet to notice any difference at all after putting the longer shaft in except I no longer hear that awful clicking noise when I turn. As far as suspension, I am getting new shocks & struts installed in the next week or 2 because I'm pretty sure mine are O.G. 30 year old parts & my car is a little bouncy.

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Torque steer, as most people describe it, is when you get on the power hard and the steering wheel pulls to one side or the other and you have to "fight" it to keep the car straight. Our cars (turbo MOPAR's) in general are known for pulling to the right. I have driven a 1989 Ford Taurus SHO manual car and that thing was SCARY! It would pull one direction, then the other...never predicable and could change at any second! This is how I know the magazines at the time were biased...somehow our cars were crap, but those were great?! LOL Not to mention the shifter felt like a stick in a rubber ball and the throws were so long you needed a back seat passenger to hit 2nd! LOL

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