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Please don't take this as criticism but I can't help but ask why you took it apart? I know to restore but it looks like a great car to begin with.

Maybe I've just never been lucky enough to start with anything that looks that good.

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Lots of work to restore properly and completely.  Taking the body apart, especially off frame can be problematic since it's a uni-body and often it doesn't fit back like one would like.  Going this far you would want to replace things like all the wiring harnesses and brakes complete  as well as shocks and exhaust.  when you have it apart it's a lot easier to do these tasks.  Also motor, trans, differential, front end......like building a new car!   And remember if you're rebuilding to sell that doesn't always work too well with the cost of parts and the amount of time.  But a great hobby and a proud project once it's completed.  Do document each step of the restoration in photos and comments.  Good luck!

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On 12/20/2018 at 11:37 AM, JAK said:

Please don't take this as criticism but I can't help but ask why you took it apart? I know to restore but it looks like a great car to begin with.

Maybe I've just never been lucky enough to start with anything that looks that good.

the car was a 10 footer
This was my dads all time favorite Lincoln so I am doing it in his honor 
I am leaving the body on the frame but dropping the suspension

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Best of luck!  I am finishing my car knowing my father is watching.  He did so much work on it.  I’m even using his tools instead of mine.   I have his car now too, a 1967 Nova that he wouldn’t allow a fly to land on.  I’m doing my best to keep it clean.  He had just clay barred it this summer, just because—it certainly didn’t need it.

Edited by 39BuickEight (see edit history)
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Hi very nice car, I would only suggest that our 12 cyl Lincolns which are severely under valued, and the safe way to preserve investment is either

100 point restoration, or big money hot rod----Your car was beautiful when you started, and then this picture of a silver painted 

engine with wrong heads will stick out like a sore thumb. (its your car and none of my business). The attraction of this automobile is 

style and status and the 12 cyl gleaming engine. (in my opinion). 

---Get some correct green paint, get some polished aluminum heads now while engine is out..or at least paint engine green,

heads can be fake aluminum....

v-12.jpg

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I am still going through all the mechanical components of my car but I eventually I will to get to the body.  I have some pretty big holes that will need to be filled.  Just curious what all is entailed to fix the holes and how you go about matching the paint and where to find it.

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On 3/7/2019 at 11:01 AM, Mssr. Bwatoe said:

Hi very nice car, I would only suggest that our 12 cyl Lincolns which are severely under valued, and the safe way to preserve investment is either

100 point restoration, or big money hot rod----Your car was beautiful when you started, and then this picture of a silver painted 

engine with wrong heads will stick out like a sore thumb. (its your car and none of my business). The attraction of this automobile is 

style and status and the 12 cyl gleaming engine. (in my opinion). 

---Get some correct green paint, get some polished aluminum heads now while engine is out..or at least paint engine green,

heads can be fake aluminum....

v-12.jpg

what a picture!!
Actually I plan on painting the engine green since I already have the paint-

 

Edited by 2nevets (see edit history)
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I am in the process of sandblasting and stripping the car
One question that I am getting conflicting answers about
Should I remove the old lead and see whats underneath? 
That would mean I would be replacing it with plastic
 

0601191016_HDR_resized.jpg

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I'd leave old lead alone!  You can certainly sand it if it's exposed, just make sure  you have a proper respirator if your messing with it.  Lead poisoning is more a problem for young children, but still not something you want to inhale.  In the old days they heated lead like a plumber who sealed pipes to fill crack and holes in body work, then sanded it smooth and finish painting it.  It was a hard lead but still lead.  It never really adhered like Bondo does in more  modern body work, and sometimes it would split away from the seams in body repair.  It was dangerous to say the least, and hot lead is nothing to mess with!  I've seen Bondo put over lead patches, sometimes that doesn't work if the lead isn't solid.  Any paint/body work is hazardous to your breathing, it's always best to avoid as much of it as possible.  Good luck!!

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On most of these cars I've seen "naked" the lead was factory, usually to fill the seams where a body was put together.

Quite common in the classic era

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