David_Leech

Towing a trailer with an antique Dodge

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My opinion. Cool old trailer but I don't think it would track very well at road speed.

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I was just out for dinner and spotted this on the wall. 

Pretty similar to the look your after I think.

Sorry about the reflection on the glass.  

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8 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:

There's a good reason you don't see them on the road

What is the geometry of 4-wheel truck trailers that makes them work?

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I can't say that I know that. But I have  never seen a camping or utility trailer with a steering axle. I have pulled plenty of farm trailers with a steering axle that will push you off the side of the road when they zig-zag. 

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It’s all really about load carrying capacity. To many fixed axles will put to much load on the axle Stubbs when turning. A front steer axle will also follow the towing truck or vehicle a lot better without cutting the corner as much. You don’t see them on general purpose type trailers because the towing capacity of a car can generally be carried on a single or tandem axle. 

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3 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:

when they zig-zag.

So what makes them zig-zag? Load distribution? I know single axle trailers will snake and can tip you over if there is not enough weight on the drawbar. I was nearly hit by a caravan doing that one time when they passed me.

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51 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

So what makes them zig-zag? Load distribution? I know single axle trailers will snake and can tip you over if there is not enough weight on the drawbar. I was nearly hit by a caravan doing that one time when they passed me.

Your pretty spot on there. Draw bar weight is important. The golden rule is in the range of 5-10% of the trailers weight on the ball. All my trailers are built with the axle behind centre of the body of the trailer. The bigger the trailer the further behind centre it goes. So if I build a 5.5metre trailer the axle centres would be placed about 150mm behind centre.  If a trailer ever starts to wobble you just take your foot of the accelerator and slow down. Don’t ever try speeding up to pull the wobble out. Manually applying the brakes through the controller if they are electric is the best option. 

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This type of trailer is still used, it's frequently used in heavy trucks, Google "type A convertor dolly". This rear trailer with convertor is essentially the same as a farm wagon with steerable front axle, just hauling quite a bit more weight at quite a bit higher speed. They don't sway if the weight is distributed correctly. Tongue weight theory still applies here. If one of the trailers start to sway, it becomes amplified through the second. 

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Edited by David_Leech (see edit history)

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OK, let me put it another way. Before he wastes any time restoring this trailer he better hook it up and take a video of trying to back it up. I'd like to see that. Triple trailers like David Leech shows are only used on the highway here in the US and in  very few states. Only doubles are allowed in PA. at this time and only on certain highways. The car  the OP described for his daughter probably weighs about 30 pounds so weight is not an issue. 

Edited by nearchoclatetown (see edit history)

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The wagon fell through. Old guy selling it decided to keep it and restore it. Just picked up a complete front end from a model T with beautiful wood wheels. How'd I do on price? $150 Canadian. The spokes don't have so much as  a crack in the grain. All strong and tight. It's too dark now for a picture, but this is from the ad. The steering is already locked, I think it has been a trailer in the past

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Dodgin' Brother David

 

There's plenty of guys with opinions on Dodge's and Trailers already in this thread.

 

Here's a picture of a single axle (Dodge Brothers of course) "Parade" Trailer built in 2005, from parts left over after completion of the restoration of our 'Family Heirloom' 1923 D-B Screen Side.

 

The original Budd Co. Box is from a '23 Screen Side (Parts Truck), the frame was custom built with 2 x 2 Steel Tubing and a standard 2" Ball-Hitch. Built with an original 1923 Front Axle, shackles, springs and wheel spindles and bearings,,

mounted with re-built wooden ("Hickory") spoke wheels and new BF Goodrich tires. Original D -B fenders were 'bobbed & wire-hemmed' to eliminate the unsightly running board bracket, The fold-down Stake' sides were re-purposed from a

Military 2-1/2 Ton Truck.using clear-grain Oak for the wooden seats & backs and Truck bed. This trailer is "One-of-a-Kind" and was featured in an article in the Dodge Brothers News Magazine.
 

If anyone is restoring a 1922 - 1924 Screen Side and looking for a complete front axle w/ wheels & tires and a pick-up type box for their restoration - You may want to consider this unit.

 

If anybody is interested, the trailer is located in Central California and is offered FOR SALE.

 

Call for additional pictures or information.

 

Keep-on-Dodgin'

 

Donn Marinovich

(209) 533-3663

donncharles1@gmail.com

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The old guy with the farm wagon did you a BIG favour by deciding to keep it. Those old wheels and hubs were never designed to stand up to highway speeds in spite of them having  bearings. (ask me how I know :( ) The T axle and wheels you found will be much better for your project and you will have parts that are capable of safety and modest speeds. Should be an interesting project to design and build. Best of luck!

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Just picked up a couple rough T fenders that I can repair. Will work nicely for my build. These were $75 Canadian dollars for a set (one shown). A few dents and other damage, but still solid enough for a trailer

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Minimum trailer lighting requirements per local regulations

 

A red tail light

A white license plate light

Two red reflectors

 

This working kerosene tail lamp and two of these glass reflectors pretty much covers it

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21 hours ago, 36 D2 Coupe said:

The old guy with the farm wagon did you a BIG favour by deciding to keep it. Those old wheels and hubs were never designed to stand up to highway speeds in spite of them having  bearings. (ask me how I know :( ) The T axle and wheels you found will be much better for your project and you will have parts that are capable of safety and modest speeds. Should be an interesting project to design and build. Best of luck!

 

 

I am much happier with the direction my project has turned. 

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David this is what I did with the sedan , the cheek plates go on the outside of the frame under the bumper brackets and the cross bar goes to them between the spring and frame . you can still remove the spare tyre with a trailer on . Bob

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