Model 10C Exhaust

[busaf4]

My 1925 10C Demi muffler is corroded out. The 2" front pipe is good, the back 1.5" pipe is rough.

 

Is the most practical solution is to get a modern 2 inch inlet/outlet straight muffler, cut out the flanges, use modern connectors/hangers and have a muffler shop bend the now 2 inch tail pipe . The car is a driver

 

Thanks

Art Lee

 

[f147pu]

I'd go with  that.  Did it on my 147 using stainless flex for the tail pipe.  I think it will be louder than a1.5" though, so you could use a 2 to 1.5" reducer and 1.5" pipe.

[busaf4]

Thanks

 

Art

[Steve Braverman]

I bought a complete exhaust from Waldrons for our 10C a while back. I had to heat and bend the tail pipe a little, but otherwise it fit and it sounds great.

[theKiwi]

1 hour ago, Steve Braverman said:

I bought a complete exhaust from Waldrons for our 10C a while back. I had to heat and bend the tail pipe a little, but otherwise it fit and it sounds great.

 

Do you have any pictures of the pipes before you put it on?

 

I'm curious about how well they make the bends - i.e. how much are they compressed/squished as you get from push bending?

 

I'm in need of front and rear pipes for my 11A, and the 10C at the Franklin museum also needs a front pipe and muffler.

 

Roger

[Steve Braverman]

17 hours ago, theKiwi said:

 

Do you have any pictures of the pipes before you put it on?

 

I'm curious about how well they make the bends - i.e. how much are they compressed/squished as you get from push bending?

 

I'm in need of front and rear pipes for my 11A, and the 10C at the Franklin museum also needs a front pipe and muffler.

 

Roger

I do not. The pipes are not mandrel bent, and are not pretty, but they work.

[theKiwi]

Thanks Steve - I'm still pondering on what to do.

 

Maybe I'll try André's "how to bend a pipe by filling it with sand and then heating it" method.

 

Roger

[Brooklyn Beer]

Ever try an electricians conduit bender?  Bet you can rent one pretty cheap for the day.     

 

 

[theKiwi]

43 minutes ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

Ever try an electricians conduit bender?  Bet you can rent one pretty cheap for the day.     

 

 

I've quickly explored the idea - one problem is that electrical conduit sizing isn't the same as exhaust tubing.

 

Exhaust tubing is 2" OD, but electrical conduit is actually larger than 2" OD - more like 2.2 or even over 2.3", so the dies and rollers in a conduit bender won't be exactly the right size to keep exhaust tubing round as it's being bent.

 

The other thing I have wondered about is if this tubing roller from Harbor Freight could actually do it

 

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/tubing-roller-99736.html

 

It supposedly comes with dies/rollers to handle 2" tubing, but I'm not sure just how well it can do the job - there are videos on YouTube of people using them with seemingly decent results.

 

Roger

[PFitz]

For a car that is a driver, you don't need mandrel-bent tubes like Franklin used. Especially if you increase the tail pipe diameter. It's a simple job for any muffler shop to bend up a tail new pipe. And they don't need the car there. They can easily bend the new pipe using your old pipe to match to.  And they usually have someone on staff who can cut off, and then weld any pipe flanges onto the new pipe. 

 

Plus, Franklin exhaust systems area bit restrictive so as to be quieter. Going to a larger tail pipe will relieve some of the engine back pressure so you gain a little bit more power, but it doesn't get noticeable louder …… unless you use a straight-through type muffler.  

 

Note;

You will have to reshape the hanger U-bolts to more of a horse shoe shape to fit around the larger OD pipe and still get the threaded ends to fit into the pipe hanger brackets. 

 

Paul