scott12180 Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 I have a new distributor cap for a 1930's Packard that I stupidly dropped off the table. When it hit the ground it broke into several pieces. Oh well. It happens sometimes. But has anyone found a glue or some other method to repair a cracked or broken distributor cap so it won't arc? I hate to give up on it without trying something. Thanks -- Luke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 Look at glue / epoxy for Bakelite repair as a possible method. I have NEVER tried this but if I were it would be where I would look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Friartuck Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 (edited) Bite the bullet, get a new cap. Ask yourself, how much is the tow home going to cost versus buy another cap? Edited December 13, 2018 by Friartuck (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Wolfe Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 Look at Amazon for The Last Glue, I've had very good luck repairing broken tool housings with it, I used it to glue bakelite dist. cap for a 1930 Chrysler. Not a cheap glue, about $30 an ounce. How much is a new cap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Wolfe Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 Forgot to add that I would contact the mfg. tech. dept. to advise on how to use it for this purpose before buying it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterc9 Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 (edited) It may work if none of the repaired cracks touch the contacts or come close to them. Thirties cars don't have as high a spark voltage as a modern car. Edited December 3, 2018 by misterc9 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 You can TRY to glue it back together, but I'd lay another cap in, and use this repaired one as a spare. For the internal cracks/repair lines, you need to seal them. I've had good luck with cracked rare caps, again on the inside, by opening the crack with a dental pick, Dremel-drilling each end of crack or repair to stop propagation, then laying on five coats, one day apart, of epoxy fingernail polish (color not important on the inside). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 Right, typically a crack in a distributor cap collects carbon dust from the arc and the carbon center terminal wear. If you smooth the crack so it isn't there, carbon can not lay in the line and cause a short. Same on outside to keep dirt out of crack that also may be conductive. Glue, smooth both sides and give it a try. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 9 hours ago, Frank DuVal said: Right, typically a crack in a distributor cap collects carbon dust from the arc and the carbon center terminal wear. If you smooth the crack so it isn't there, carbon can not lay in the line and cause a short. Same on outside to keep dirt out of crack that also may be conductive. Glue, smooth both sides and give it a try. Smooth it yes, but don't sand it. Sanding scratches will do the same as leaving the cracks unfilled. They can collect and contribute to carbon tracking. Fill and smooth it with cut-to-fit pieces of thin cardboard, manila folder, or business card stock, to fill and level the glue in the crack. And stay away from fast cure epoxies. The faster they cure the sooner they let go. Slow cure marine grade epoxies are the best for strength and longevity. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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