Cornpanzers Riv Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 (edited) I have a friend with a nicely restored 63. It has the stock four-jet carb. When the car sits for more than a day or so, it won’t start without priming. I’m familiar with the typical Q-jet leak, but have never heard of the Carter doing the same thing. Any suggestions on how to deal with this? Thx Edited December 1, 2018 by Cornpanzers Riv (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbking Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 Probably not a leak: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm#Hardstartcold Jon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 4 hours ago, Cornpanzers Riv said: I have a friend with a nicely restored 63. It has the stock four-jet carb. When the car sits for more than a day or so, it won’t start without priming. I’m familiar with the typical Q-jet leak, but have never heard of the Carter doing the same thing. Any suggestions on how to deal with this? Is the carb you're having the problem with a Rochester four-jet or the Carter you mention in the 3rd sentence? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 I was going to ask the same question as Ed. Is the carb. aluminum??? OR other??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 When I looked at the thread again, it says Rochester in the title. Confusing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornpanzers Riv Posted December 2, 2018 Author Share Posted December 2, 2018 Sorry for the confusion. It is indeed a Carter. Does anyone ever installed a electrical and if so what’s the best way to do that? Thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 8 minutes ago, Cornpanzers Riv said: Sorry for the confusion. It is indeed a Carter. Does anyone ever installed a electrical and if so what’s the best way to do that? Thanks for the help Electrical - choke or fuel pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crowvet Posted December 2, 2018 Share Posted December 2, 2018 Have him park it with the nose pointing down hill, and see if it starts then. The check valve in the fuel pump may be bad and siphoning back to the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornpanzers Riv Posted December 3, 2018 Author Share Posted December 3, 2018 8 hours ago, RivNut said: Electrical - choke or fuel pump? Fuel pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 My personal experience with both the Rochester 4GC and the Carter AFB has not indicated a severe short term evaporation problem except in very hot weather, and even then it only took a little cranking to refill the carb and start the car. Now if you are leaving the car sit for weeks between startup that could be an issue. Don't be too quick to add an electric fuel pump until you have at least checked out or rebuilt the carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fraso Posted December 12, 2018 Share Posted December 12, 2018 Carbking has the correct solution to the hard starting problem. I have a Quadrajet on my car that's had the epoxy seal upgrade when it was rebuilt. I have an electric fuel pump on my car and I added an oil pressure safety interlock on it this summer. I find that, even in cool fall weather, the fuel in carburetor will evaporate after a few days. I know this because my car will start shortly after the fuel pump kicks it after several seconds of cranking to build 5 psi of oil pressure. I plan to add a second relay so that the fuel pump is energized when the starter is engaged. If you have a mechanical fuel pump, I would add a solenoid-style electric pump that runs with the starter. This type of pump allows flow-through operation when the electric pump is not running. A vane-style pump has better lift capability but will not flow-through and requires a bypass if used for priming the carburetor. See Vapor Lock for suitable fuel pumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 I dunno. I've got a 63 with a 401 and a 4GC that hadn't been run since August. It was 20° in the garage where it sits when I fired it up last week. It was running less than 30 seconds after I first turned the key. Crank it 3-4 seconds, stop for a second. After the third or fourth repeat, pop the accelerator a couple of times. A couple more cranks, and it's off and running. That tells me that a mechanical fuel pump isn't the problem. IOW, fix what ya got. Cure the disease; don't put a band-aid on the symptom. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted December 23, 2018 Share Posted December 23, 2018 (edited) In addition to refilling the fuel bowl, cranking an extra 30 ~ 40 seconds also allows the oil pump to generate some pressure before the engine lights-off. That's not a bad thing after sitting for a few days... Edited December 23, 2018 by EmTee Updated (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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