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Believe it or not she actually came straight up and out. Hired a shop to do it since cheaper than buying a cherry picker for 1 use - I made out on that because they did run into a snag getting the trans. out of the way. All floorboards had to come out and then the differential had to be slid back 3”. Did it for the same price even though it took a full extra day to consult with people deciding how to do it. LOL.

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2 hours ago, Terry Wiegand said:

I finished getting all of the valve cage assemblies and rocker posts installed this morning.  I removed my 'shop aid' frame spreader and the body has be bolted back down on the frame.  Raising the whole body about an inch and a half at the firewall was just the ticket to slip the engine back into the frame.  Removing the steering column was most helpful also.  Hopefully things will be a lot easier going back together.  I slipped the NOS AC Titan Spark Plugs in just to get an idea what they will look like when installed for good.  This is really getting to the fun part of this rebuild.

 

Terry Wiegand

Out in Doo Dah

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Terry i consider myself a Post War Buick lover with a huge interest in Pre War Buick's and i have to say that your engine both in and out of the car has to be one of the best looking pieces of machinery i have seen. I have always loved the open valve train engines. Best of luck with it

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I got a little bit more done today before calling it quits to start on the weekly yard work.  I sent the manifolds out to Finish Line Coatings in the Portland, Oregon area for Ceramic Coating.  The intake is cast Aluminum and that came out looking almost like it was plated or polished out.  I'll try to get some photos of that posted soon once it is in place.  I wanted to get the push-rods in place before the starter/generator unit is put back in place.  I am going to set the valve clearance at .008" COLD before the initial start-up.  After the engine has run for a bit, I will then go back and reset the clearance to .007" HOT.  Don, I'm sure that your '27 is not that much different than what I have here.  I had the cylinder block removed from the crankcase when that was taken out of the frame and that was a really tricky job lifting it out without tearing up anything.  I had helped my Dad go through the complete front end on this car in the Winter of 1963, so I knew what to expect in dealing with the steering column removal/re-install.  All of the parts and pieces that have been gone through and set aside are paying off in time savings now.  Gotta love it when a plan comes together.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Marty, Mark, and All,

Thank you for your compliments.  It is very rewarding when others can see and appreciate what a person is trying to do with a restoration.  In my case, I learned from the Master.  My Dad was the consummate perfectionist and restorer of John Deere 2-Cylinder Tractors.  He taught me at a very early age how to use tools properly and to never take any short cuts.  I lost my Dad almost 23 years ago and I know that he has been watching over me with this engine rebuild.  About the only thing that has me a little concerned at this point is the initial start-up.  I really want to have a video of when that day comes and I simply cannot blow that opportunity - it only comes around once.

 

Terry Wiegand

Out in A HOT Doo Dah

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The intake manifold is in place.  Now, it's on to the water pump/starter/generator shaft.  That is going to take a bit of doing, so likely won't be done for a few days.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Things are still moving forward.  This morning the Starter/Generator unit was re-installed.  Before the S/G went into place, I coated the flywheel reduction gear with LocTite LB 8012.  This is an extremely 'sticky' grease that I believe has graphite in it.  With all of the talk as of late about timing, I double checked that the crankshaft and camshaft gear were in their proper orientation.  Before I put the timing case cover back on, I will apply assembly grease all around ALL of the gears.  I hope to have the water pump shaft back in later this afternoon.  One thing in particular that I am very happy about is the fact that the camshaft gear is steel.  It is this person's humble opinion that a fiber gear will run 'quieter' than a steel gear is nothing but a load of hogwash.  With all of the valve train running out in the open, somebody is going to have to prove to me and convince me that they can hear camshaft gear noise coming from the front of the engine - ain't gonna happen.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Terry,

What is the coating on the pushrods?

(My apologies if you already noted that somewhere - I have this way with not finding the same thing twice.)

Ben P.

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The water pump shaft and pump are in place.  Having the front cover off was just the ticket to set everything together.  The Oldham ring and the coupling will be greased and the tapered pin can be tapped into place.  I am going to remove the nylon-tipped set screw in the impellor.  That was used to locate the impellor on the shaft for the staking operation.  I don't want that working loose and causing problems.  The shaft packing will be put in in all three places.  Before the radiator is set back in place, I am going to get clear plastic tubing from the hardware store and attach that to the inlet and outlet points and flush the daylights out of the cooling system.  I know that the block is clean, but, I'm not taking any chances with that beautiful condition radiator.  The next thing is to get the number one cylinder set to top dead center for the ignition setting.  This is really getting to the fun part now.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Here is the last photo for today.  Timing gear cover is back on, front mount securely in place, and the back motor/frame bolts tightened down.  I think we can say the engine is securely back home.  I will get the starter shaft coupling finished up tomorrow and then it is start thinking about the transmission and getting it ready to go back in.

 

Terry Wiegand

Out in Doo Dah

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Terry I know that you are far ahead of me on these Buick engines but the water pump impeller looks to be turned in a passive direction. Im not trying to alarm you at all. Im sure you have it right. It just looks strange to me.  

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Raydurr, that is kinda funny that you said that.  I thought the same thing too when I saw one of those for the first time.  It is correct though with the vanes in this configuration.  My good friend, Dean Tryon, who is the editor of our 1915 - 1918 Early Buick Newsletter, had these cast a few years ago using a very nice original piece as the pattern.  It turns out that Buick used several different variations of these impellors through the years.  Some had straight vanes and some had vanes on both sides of the center section.  This is one of the fun aspects of messing with these old engines - a person learns something new every day.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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I need to make a correction to the posting that I made on June 04.  I stated that I was going to set the valve clearance at .007" on a Hot engine.  After careful reading of the 1916 Models Reference Book, it states that the push rods should be adjusted to .005" on a cool motor.  With that in print right in front of me I will set the valve clearance at .005" with the engine cool.  I really do not think it would be the smart thing to do to go against The Buick Motor Company Engineering Department.  After all they designed and built the car.  This is getting to be more fun by the day.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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A little more progress was made yesterday afternoon.  The plug wiring tube is now in place.  The NOS AC Titan Spark Plugs were gapped and installed.  The water return pipe on top of the block was installed permanently.  The Marvel Carburetor is just in place for the photo.  I will take it off so that the steering column can be re-installed.  Barbara helped me get the timing set.  We gapped the points at .020".  That was where the three hands really helped with the feeler gauge.  It's getting there.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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The water pump has been plumbed in and the packings are in place.  I will get the plug wiring installed next.  As far as the fuel system goes (vacuum tank and carburetor) I will take care of that once the steering column is back in place.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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I got all of the plug wires in place this afternoon.  I think the next order of re-assembly is going to be getting the transmission back in place.  I have a little bit more cleaning to do on the outside of the case and I am going to flush the case

out with Kerosene.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Gary,

Thank you for the comments about this old Buick.  As I tell everyone - I am really trying hard to get this just right.  We hope that you had a Great Father's Day also.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, kansas

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I went through the motor-driven horn and got it cleaned up and set back in place.  Karla Maxwell restored the tag for me.  She does a beautiful job on everything that she does.  This horn even has a serial number on the tag.  Russ Furstnow made the leather fan belt for me.  I was just messing around last night during the rain and polished out the copper oil can.  I have gone just about as far as I can go with the engine, so, it's get on the transmission now and finish getting it cleaned up.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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56 minutes ago, Terry Wiegand said:

Karla Maxwell restored the tag for me.  She does a beautiful job on everything that she does. 

 

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Terry, can you elaborate? 

 

My 24-45 horn tag is barely readable... 

 

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I want to let everyone know who is watching this rebuild that I have been summoned for jury duty.  I have absolutely no idea how this is gonna play out.  So, this is probably going to put a dent in the Buick activity for at least a little while.  I'll post updates if and when I can.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Don:

Mine was just about the same condition as yours.

DSCF8192.thumb.JPG.70455edd5fbb2b4040b4d8f477c74263.JPG    12A on the Master

 

DSCF7993.thumb.JPG.f55c76473f8f909c2c4bc14269917650.JPG  12B on the Standard

 This is how mine came out after some careful, cleaning back spraying with several light coats of lacquer. Then wet sanding with #600 to the lettering relief. Then clear lacquer top coating. Not perfect as they were both scared and worn but they do look considerably better.

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I have decided that the steering column is going to be the next thing to be put back in place.  I helped my Dad when he went through the front end on the car during the Winter of 1963.  This was just a matter of washing things up again and getting ready for the re-assembly.  The ground balls on the Pittman Arm and the steering knuckle show minimum wear.  When I was washing these parts up 57 years ago, I didn't pay a whole lot of attention to details like that.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Since this is the 4th of July and this date marks the last time that our Buick was driven, I thought it might be kinda cool to let everyone see what the car looked like back in 1976.  One of my parents neighbors took this photo and gave the photo to my Dad after they had the film developed.  This was literally the last day that this car was driven.  44 years is way too long to let a Buick set idle.  We're pushing as hard as we can to get that situation corrected.  We hope that everyone has a great 4th of July.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Posted (edited)
On 12/7/2018 at 2:12 PM, Bloo said:

I bought some of those from Blackhawk Supply not terribly long ago (about a year).

I needed a couple of those too.  The place that said they could order them in said his wholesaler told him they are obsolete but did have 5.   I was looking for two along with the 1/8 X 1/8 elbow that threads into the oil gallery beside the dipstick.   That he couldn't get.  That doesn't matter because it's NPT into the block oil gallery and the other side of the elbow fitting can be the more modern ferrule style compression fitting.  It's the other end of the oil pressure tube off the back of the gauge that really matters that I have the old style compression fitting ....."brass compression sleeve nut".....it turns directly into and seals the tube to the oil pressure gauge.  I have what I need to make it work but if I would have spent more time at it I'm sure I could have found the elbow fitting too.   I really wanted a new fitting for under the dash in case the old fitting wouldn't seal properly because it was used.

 

 

Edited by 1937McBuick (see edit history)
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On 6/8/2020 at 2:18 PM, Terry Wiegand said:

Ben,

They are Black Oxide coated.

 

Terry Wiegand

Doo Dah America

 

Did you get a black oxide producing product from maybe a gun shop, or did you cook or heat the pushrods in oil to get them to black oxidize? I'm still trying to find the best technique of black oxiding things. It's way better than paint because it never flakes off.

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I had them done at Metal Finishing in Wichita, Kansas.  There are two different processes for Black Oxide coating.  One will have the parts rusting in about two weeks.  These folks use the good process and the result is well worth the extra cost involved.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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I probably should explain the comment about the cost for the push rod processing.  I had a lot of things done a few years back as I finished up the machine work.  Metal Finishing charged me $25.00 to do the 12 rods.  They ran them in with other parts and pieces and this allowed for a lower cost per piece to me.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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8 hours ago, Terry Wiegand said:

I probably should explain the comment about the cost for the push rod processing.  I had a lot of things done a few years back as I finished up the machine work.  Metal Finishing charged me $25.00 to do the 12 rods.  They ran them in with other parts and pieces and this allowed for a lower cost per piece to me.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas


I'd still like to know what they did. My push rods were black oxide coated already, from being covered with oil for 100 years, but I cleaned off my valve cage nuts so they needed black oxide. I took a cast iron skillet and put the nuts in and filled it with synthetic motor oil because it's clear enough to see through. I heated them to around 200 or 250 until they turned black. I probably could have used corn oil because that is what made the skillet black oxide seasoned.

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Got the vacuum tank back in place this morning.  John Wolf out in Ohio went through the tank for me and I am very pleased at how that turned out.  The fuel shutoff valve I found on evilBay a few years back.  I took it all apart and soaked the pieces in Lime-Away for about 10 days.  I then took a soft bristled, Brass wire brush to the parts and you can see the result of that.  Getting the plumbing hooked up will come a bit later.

 

Terry Wiegand

Out in Doo Dah

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I got the vent line for the vacuum tank polished out and back in place.  This is the ORIGINAL vent tubing that the car left the factory with.  I am trying to keep this car as true to original as is possible.  I was almost thinking that this was something that had been cobbled up way back when.  It was pointed out to me that I needed to look at the Illustrated Parts Catalog and check out the vent line.  I almost fell over after finding out that this is original to the car.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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On 7/11/2020 at 7:45 PM, Terry Wiegand said:

I got the vent line for the vacuum tank polished out and back in place.  This is the ORIGINAL vent tubing that the car left the factory with.  I am trying to keep this car as true to original as is possible.  I was almost thinking that this was something that had been cobbled up way back when.  It was pointed out to me that I needed to look at the Illustrated Parts Catalog and check out the vent line.  I almost fell over after finding out that this is original to the car.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

 

 

 

Mine has the original long vent line as well. I think maybe after my year they started using a short maybe 1 inch vent line.

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