Terry Wiegand 1,490 Posted June 4 The intake manifold is in place. Now, it's on to the water pump/starter/generator shaft. That is going to take a bit of doing, so likely won't be done for a few days. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry Wiegand 1,490 Posted June 8 Things are still moving forward. This morning the Starter/Generator unit was re-installed. Before the S/G went into place, I coated the flywheel reduction gear with LocTite LB 8012. This is an extremely 'sticky' grease that I believe has graphite in it. With all of the talk as of late about timing, I double checked that the crankshaft and camshaft gear were in their proper orientation. Before I put the timing case cover back on, I will apply assembly grease all around ALL of the gears. I hope to have the water pump shaft back in later this afternoon. One thing in particular that I am very happy about is the fact that the camshaft gear is steel. It is this person's humble opinion that a fiber gear will run 'quieter' than a steel gear is nothing but a load of hogwash. With all of the valve train running out in the open, somebody is going to have to prove to me and convince me that they can hear camshaft gear noise coming from the front of the engine - ain't gonna happen. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ben P. 305 Posted June 8 Terry, What is the coating on the pushrods? (My apologies if you already noted that somewhere - I have this way with not finding the same thing twice.) Ben P. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry Wiegand 1,490 Posted June 8 Ben, They are Black Oxide coated. Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry Wiegand 1,490 Posted June 10 The water pump shaft and pump are in place. Having the front cover off was just the ticket to set everything together. The Oldham ring and the coupling will be greased and the tapered pin can be tapped into place. I am going to remove the nylon-tipped set screw in the impellor. That was used to locate the impellor on the shaft for the staking operation. I don't want that working loose and causing problems. The shaft packing will be put in in all three places. Before the radiator is set back in place, I am going to get clear plastic tubing from the hardware store and attach that to the inlet and outlet points and flush the daylights out of the cooling system. I know that the block is clean, but, I'm not taking any chances with that beautiful condition radiator. The next thing is to get the number one cylinder set to top dead center for the ignition setting. This is really getting to the fun part now. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry Wiegand 1,490 Posted June 10 Here is the last photo for today. Timing gear cover is back on, front mount securely in place, and the back motor/frame bolts tightened down. I think we can say the engine is securely back home. I will get the starter shaft coupling finished up tomorrow and then it is start thinking about the transmission and getting it ready to go back in. Terry Wiegand Out in Doo Dah 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
raydurr 140 Posted June 10 Terry I know that you are far ahead of me on these Buick engines but the water pump impeller looks to be turned in a passive direction. Im not trying to alarm you at all. Im sure you have it right. It just looks strange to me. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry Wiegand 1,490 Posted June 11 Raydurr, that is kinda funny that you said that. I thought the same thing too when I saw one of those for the first time. It is correct though with the vanes in this configuration. My good friend, Dean Tryon, who is the editor of our 1915 - 1918 Early Buick Newsletter, had these cast a few years ago using a very nice original piece as the pattern. It turns out that Buick used several different variations of these impellors through the years. Some had straight vanes and some had vanes on both sides of the center section. This is one of the fun aspects of messing with these old engines - a person learns something new every day. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry Wiegand 1,490 Posted June 11 I need to make a correction to the posting that I made on June 04. I stated that I was going to set the valve clearance at .007" on a Hot engine. After careful reading of the 1916 Models Reference Book, it states that the push rods should be adjusted to .005" on a cool motor. With that in print right in front of me I will set the valve clearance at .005" with the engine cool. I really do not think it would be the smart thing to do to go against The Buick Motor Company Engineering Department. After all they designed and built the car. This is getting to be more fun by the day. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry Wiegand 1,490 Posted June 12 A little more progress was made yesterday afternoon. The plug wiring tube is now in place. The NOS AC Titan Spark Plugs were gapped and installed. The water return pipe on top of the block was installed permanently. The Marvel Carburetor is just in place for the photo. I will take it off so that the steering column can be re-installed. Barbara helped me get the timing set. We gapped the points at .020". That was where the three hands really helped with the feeler gauge. It's getting there. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry Wiegand 1,490 Posted June 16 The water pump has been plumbed in and the packings are in place. I will get the plug wiring installed next. As far as the fuel system goes (vacuum tank and carburetor) I will take care of that once the steering column is back in place. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry Wiegand 1,490 Posted June 20 I got all of the plug wires in place this afternoon. I think the next order of re-assembly is going to be getting the transmission back in place. I have a little bit more cleaning to do on the outside of the case and I am going to flush the case out with Kerosene. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas 9 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary W 1,391 Posted June 21 Beautiful work of art, Terry! Happy Father's Day! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry Wiegand 1,490 Posted June 21 Gary, Thank you for the comments about this old Buick. As I tell everyone - I am really trying hard to get this just right. We hope that you had a Great Father's Day also. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, kansas 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry Wiegand 1,490 Posted June 22 I went through the motor-driven horn and got it cleaned up and set back in place. Karla Maxwell restored the tag for me. She does a beautiful job on everything that she does. This horn even has a serial number on the tag. Russ Furstnow made the leather fan belt for me. I was just messing around last night during the rain and polished out the copper oil can. I have gone just about as far as I can go with the engine, so, it's get on the transmission now and finish getting it cleaned up. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas 6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
27donb 375 Posted June 22 56 minutes ago, Terry Wiegand said: Karla Maxwell restored the tag for me. She does a beautiful job on everything that she does. Terry, can you elaborate? My 24-45 horn tag is barely readable... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry Wiegand 1,490 Posted June 23 Don, I have sent you a PM. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Terry Wiegand 1,490 Posted Sunday at 07:33 PM I want to let everyone know who is watching this rebuild that I have been summoned for jury duty. I have absolutely no idea how this is gonna play out. So, this is probably going to put a dent in the Buick activity for at least a little while. I'll post updates if and when I can. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dibarlaw 1,553 Posted Monday at 03:15 PM Don: Mine was just about the same condition as yours. 12A on the Master 12B on the Standard This is how mine came out after some careful, cleaning back spraying with several light coats of lacquer. Then wet sanding with #600 to the lettering relief. Then clear lacquer top coating. Not perfect as they were both scared and worn but they do look considerably better. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
