Terry Wiegand

AND THEN THERE WERE THREE

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This is going to be a start over of my original thread.  I accidentally deleted the whole original thread while trying to clear the message and start over after not being able to post a photo.  I am sorry about this.  I will just have to pick up where I left off with the posting of new photos.

I simply do not understand this business of making photos lower resolution to satisfy some silly requirement that has been put in place.  I will continue to post one photo at a time like I have always had work before.  Again, I apologize for wrecking the whole thread.  There were some really interesting photos that have probably been lost.  Keep in mind that I am just a lowly tool and die person who is capable of extremely high precision machine work.  I don't do computers really well at all.  I called Matt Hinson to see if he could help me with this and I have not heard back from him as of yet.  

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Here is a question for the early Buick experts.  The photo shows the clutch spider for the D-45.  The thrust bearing has what looks like formed covers on each side.  These covers are free to move and/or rotate in the spider hub.  My question is this - what is holding the bearing in the hub?  Have any of you ever taken one of these apart? If so, please tell me how the bearing comes out of the hub.  There is no bearing number visible on the open side.  It could possibly be hidden in the hub side of the spider.  Caution is the word of the day here.  Thank you for any and all information.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

PB280335.JPG

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Really ! 

 

I cannot believe that in this day and age a whole thread can be deleted accidently or not !

Surely there must be some sort of safeguard against this.

I sure would hate for something like this to happen again to any other thread. I am thinking specifically of the excellent restoration thread of Gary's 1937 model 48.

Forums like this are an excellent resource for budding restorers of cars, bikes, vintage machinery, musical instruments, furniture ( add your hobby/interest here ) worldwide, and properly protected should last forever.

Hopefully the moderators can restore the original thread and put in place a process to prevent it happening ever again.

 

David.

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If you start a thread, you can delete it. Before you delete it, you will get a pop up box with a question asking if you want to delete it. If you click yes, the forum software will do what you asked it to do and delete it. If it is deleted, there is no way to restore it. If you are trying to delete anything, be careful. It would be much safer to "edit" rather than "delete" a post in a thread that you start. Computers are very fast and efficient at doing what you ask them to do, even if it is not what you intended to do. 

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10 hours ago, Terry Wiegand said:

please tell me how the bearing comes out of the hub

Terry,

     Most bearings like this can be pressed out from the back side.  If none of the bearing is exposed from the back, it will be ruined when driven out with a screw driver or other drift inserted in the middle of the bearing and driven out from the back side.

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Since we are back to showing progress, I had a friend help me install the head on my car, and the transmission, and pull up the rear axle.  The transmission has been out the car for 55 years so it is really nice to start getting some big parts off the work bench.   So much easier to do this with the body off.  A good number of the high head bolts were in a coffee can with no labels from when the transmission was removed and using the book of parts I was able to find where they all went.    Hugh

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Since the former thread is gone here is a photo of the cylinder block before the thermal cleaning was done.

 

Terry Wiegand

Doo Dah America

PB240329.JPG

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The block has been cleaned and the cleaning process left the inside of the water jacket looking almost like what you see on the outside.  The casting has some problems as you can see in the photo also.  The guys told me that there is always the possibility for this type of problem to become exposed.  Three manifold studs were also a casualty of the heating process.  The high temperature in the oven was well over 700 degrees.  The next step is to get the casting up to Noland Cylinder Head Service in Kansas City.  I spoke with Mr. Noland this morning about the problem.  He has spoken with Brian Hager of Precision Machining in Jefferson City, Missouri about what is going on with the casting.  The repair is a process called Lok-N- Stitch.  There is absolutely no heat involved with this and Mr. Noland tells me that when the repair is completed and the surface of the casting is dressed, one will never know that anything has ever been done.  The INSIDE of the water jacket (read that as cylinder walls) is solid and free of any issues.  The block was magnafluxed all over checking for cracks everywhere.  I was also told that the cracks were more than likely caused from the coolant freezing and not necessarily a thin casting wall condition.  This wasn't what I was wanting, however, things are very fixable and the block is headed up to Kansas City next week.  I might add that the cost for the cleaning was $125.00 and I thought that was very reasonable.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

PB300338.JPG

Edited by Terry Wiegand
ADDED MATERIAL (see edit history)
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Here is a photo of the water pump side of the block.  There are steel stampings all over the top of the block.  Each and every cage counterbore is numbered.  The bottom side of the cylinders are number stamped also.  Before this casting goes under paint, I am going to go all over the outside with a Dotco and dress it up so that it will look real good with the paint on it.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

PB300339.JPG

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Hugh,

Everything is looking very good.  All of us working on these cars know just how much effort and time it takes to get things done on some days.  It really looks good with what you have so far.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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19 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said:

Since we are back to showing progress, I had a friend help me install the head on my car, and the transmission, and pull up the rear axle.  The transmission has been out the car for 55 years so it is really nice to start getting some big parts off the work bench.   So much easier to do this with the body off.  A good number of the high head bolts were in a coffee can with no labels from when the transmission was removed and using the book of parts I was able to find where they all went.    Hugh

505674839_2018-11-2916_24_19.thumb.jpg.860c6b3cfe7c7f06a81b88b38b2b3779.jpg1294538907_2018-11-2916_51_23.thumb.jpg.e92ee1d958d2e289eca122548d1e4fd4.jpg

 

Great progress, need more pictures! 

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Hugh that is beautifully done. Your really going to have a one of a kind example of what that car looked like right off the factory assembly line great job can’t wait to see it completed..

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I have been having success with the running in of my 1925-25 engine. I just have to figure out how to set up a link to see the videos.

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2 hours ago, dibarlaw said:

See if these links work for the videos.

 

 

 

Sounds great! 

 

It seems to me that if you are doing initial running, and breaking in the cam, it would be benefitial to supply the carb using gravity feed from a gas can.  That way it might help rule out a carb issue, while allowing the engine to run and warm up without going lean and stalling. 

 

After the engine is run in, sort out the vacuum tank issue, if that's indeed what the problem is. 

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https://youtu.be/4dnV6NsYQks

Problem has pretty much been worked out now that it is timed correctly. I will adjust as Brian Heil has outlined. I have things pretty well buttoned up. Now just some tweaking and replacement of oil line to gage as it has a crack. Also make up a bit longer coil wire to route under the spark plug cover. 

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I need to take a ride!

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Larry, 

       Really glad to hear that you have Buelah up and running.   I wish I was close enough to go for a ride.  

The nuts used on the 1/8 and 1/4" tubing for oil/vacuum/and fuel lines are called "brass threaded sleeve nuts".  I went looking for them the other day, and it took forever to find them without knowing the correct term.   I think I found these with the search term  "1/8 tubing sleeve nuts"      Hugh

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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I bought some of those from Blackhawk Supply not terribly long ago (about a year).

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Looks and sounds really good Larry.   What do you think the problem was,  why it wouldn,t  keep running.. 

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Here is a photo of the removed clutch cone.  I am going to take it out to my John Deere Dealer for some further high pressure cleaning before it gets shipped for the new lining.  I am here to tell you all that the leather is as hard as a rock.  Andy Wise will get it back to me at the Chickasha Swap Meet in March.  This is the transmission side looking into the flywheel.  I'll post a photo of the other side also.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

PC080347.JPG

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Terry;  The best repair I've done is to reline the cone clutch in new leather.  The clutch is the best feature of my car now, I can move it inch by inch if needed without bucking and snorting.  Good luck with your rebuilds everyone.

 

Regards, Gary

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The cylinder block is going to Noland Cylinder Head Service in Kansas City, Missouri in the morning for the crack repair.  I am thinking that it will be sometime after the first of the year before it will come back home from what they have told me.  In the meantime the new throw-out bearing is on the way.  That is a story that could take two pages to describe.  The International Bearing Interchange gave a few sources for New Departure Hyatt and the only number was a company by the name of Rollway.  I had never heard of this company before, but, they had the bearing in stock in a warehouse in Tennessee.  I am going to look into the thrust bearing that is in the spider in the first photo in this thread next.  Gotta keep moving forward.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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