New 65 Riviera owner with a question

[RivNut]

2 hours ago, crowvet said:

Can you provide a link to these threads? I am not finding them. Someone has cobbled it up. 3 wire jamb switch on the right and two wire in the left with the purple wire scotch locked into the white wire. 

The best thing I can recommend is to purchase a wiring diagram and dig into it.  I think the pots that deal with this are pretty general; only describing the different circuits.  You need something detailing what colored wires go with which circuits.  If two wires have already been spliced together,  I think that someone hs discovered a faulty switch.  I know that Steve Lorenzen has these switches for sale.  He, along with others parts vendors, advertise in the Riview.

 

Here' a link to a large laminated wiring diagram.  I have three, one for each year, and I've found them to be very accurate.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-65-Buick-Riviera-Full-Color-Laminated-Wiring-Diagram-11-X-17/362497212221?epid=713791197&hash=item5466847f3d:g:HGMAAOSwNphWXarb

 

Ed

Edited December 1, 2018 by RivNut (see edit history)

[1965rivgs]

3 hours ago, crowvet said:

Can you provide a link to these threads? I am not finding them. Someone has cobbled it up. 3 wire jamb switch on the right and two wire in the left with the purple wire scotch locked into the white wire. 

  There are 3 courtesy light circuits. Each of these circuits is switched to ground individually via 3 manual switches. The 3 switchs are the courtesy light switch at the center overhang of the dash, the headlight switch by rotating and the switch at the back of the console. When each of these switches is activated that circuit is completed to ground and that circuit will light the associated bulbs.

  All 3 circuits also come together at each door jamb switch which also completes each circuit to ground when the door is opened.

  If you touch any of the individual wires at the door jamb switch to ground the circuit associated with that wire should function.

  The center dash switch illuminates the front console side lights and the light over the glovebox.

  Rotating the headlight switch illuminates the rear sail panel lights.

  Actuating the switch at the rear of the console will light the courtesy light at that location.

Tom Mooney

[RivNut]

One thing that might help you understand the circuits and switches is that, unlike normal wiring, the switches are on the ground side of the circuit.  There is 12V going directly to each bulb.  The bulb comes on when the switch on the ground wire side is turned on and completes the circuit.  This is done so that all of the lights come on when the door is opened  or each circuit can be activated when the doors are closed using the switches Tom mentions above.  Resolving issues is a tedious process but it can be accomplished.  

 

If I were you, I'd pull out both door jamb switches and make sure those wires are disabled, tape them off.  Then using the techniques that Tom describes above, make sure that the bulbs and switches in each circuit are working properly.  Make sure that all the individual switches are off them one at a time, at each door, ground each of the three wires separately and see what happens.  if each wire going to the door jamb switch activates one circuit, you've eliminated wring problems.  The problem is in the door jamb switch, one or both.

 

 If you have the correct door jamb switches, Gord Wolfgang can repair them for you.

 

Ed

 

The correct switches look like this:

 

 

This picture shows the switch with the rubber boot.

[crowvet]

6 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:

  There are 3 courtesy light circuits. Each of these circuits is switched to ground individually via 3 manual switches. The 3 switchs are the courtesy light switch at the center overhang of the dash, the headlight switch by rotating and the switch at the back of the console. When each of these switches is activated that circuit is completed to ground and that circuit will light the associated bulbs.

  All 3 circuits also come together at each door jamb switch which also completes each circuit to ground when the door is opened.

  If you touch any of the individual wires at the door jamb switch to ground the circuit associated with that wire should function.

  The center dash switch illuminates the front console side lights and the light over the glovebox.

  Rotating the headlight switch illuminates the rear sail panel lights.

  Actuating the switch at the rear of the console will light the courtesy light at that location.

Tom Mooney

Thank you Tom,  I am gaining on this 

[crowvet]

6 hours ago, RivNut said:

One thing that might help you understand the circuits and switches is that, unlike normal wiring, the switches are on the ground side of the circuit.  There is 12V going directly to each bulb.  The bulb comes on when the switch on the ground wire side is turned on and completes the circuit.  This is done so that all of the lights come on when the door is opened  or each circuit can be activated when the doors are closed using the switches Tom mentions above.  Resolving issues is a tedious process but it can be accomplished.  

 

If I were you, I'd pull out both door jamb switches and make sure those wires are disabled, tape them off.  Then using the techniques that Tom describes above, make sure that the bulbs and switches in each circuit are working properly.  Make sure that all the individual switches are off them one at a time, at each door, ground each of the three wires separately and see what happens.  if each wire going to the door jamb switch activates one circuit, you've eliminated wring problems.  The problem is in the door jamb switch, one or both.

 

 If you have the correct door jamb switches, Gord Wolfgang can repair them for you.

 

Ed

 

The correct switches look like this:

 

 

This picture shows the switch with the rubber boot.

Thank you Ed, Yes my switches look like that only one is a two terminal and one is a three. My drivers door works with the exception of the dash light at glove box. The passenger side doesn't work, but if I pull the wires and ground them two will turn on the lights again with the exception of the one near the glove box. However I have power to the glove box light, and if grounded at the light itself it works. So I believe I have two issues. One being the passenger switch and the other being the ground circuit to the glove box light. Thank you guys for the help, I think I  can nail this down now. I like those laminated wiring diagrams Thanks for the link.

[RivNut]

Sounds like you're on the right track. If you're not an ROA member yet, send me a PM and I'll give you the contact info for Steve Lorenzen for three prong switches.  Bestoffercounts has repos of the rubber caps available on eBay.

[RivNut]

22 minutes ago, crowvet said:

Thank you Ed, Yes my switches look like that only one is a two terminal and one is a three. My drivers door works with the exception of the dash light at glove box. The passenger side doesn't work, but if I pull the wires and ground them two will turn on the lights again with the exception of the one near the glove box. However I have power to the glove box light, and if grounded at the light itself it works. So I believe I have two issues. One being the passenger switch and the other being the ground circuit to the glove box light. Thank you guys for the help, I think I  can nail this down now. I like those laminated wiring diagrams Thanks for the 

Drop the panel above the radio where the accessory switch is. Use a jumper wire to by-pass that switch. See if the light comes on.  Then, if so, the switch is the problem in the ground circuit.  The great thing about this is that you'll have a great appreciation of your skills when you get this all sorted out. .

 

 

[65VerdeGS]

On 11/28/2018 at 9:26 PM, jsgun said:

The 67 Vette is one of my all time favorite cars. Absolute pinnacle of design, IMO. 

 

I didn't know Riv's came with air shocks. I have them on mine, but i'm certain they're aftermarket. Where i'm from originally, air shocks were white trash, you put them on your camaro to raise it up enough to get the super wide tires to stop rubbing the fenders.

 

I installed air shocks on my '65 many years ago and they still work just fine.  But instead of placing the filler valve in the trunk, I installed it underneath the rear bumper on the metal bar that runs behind and beneath the bumper. I didn't even have to drill a hole because there are holes in this backer bar already - I just used one of these holes (slightly left of center) for the valve assembly, using a couple of 3/4" washers to take up the extra diameter of the stock hole.

 

The advantage of this location is you don't have to open the trunk to top up the air shocks.  The disadvantage is you have to bend over and reach behind the bumper to access the valve.  Make sure you put a valve cap on the valve so dirt doesn't get into it if you install the valve in this more exposed location. 

[RivNut]

On one of my El Caminos, the valve for the air shocks was behind the gas filler door. Easy to get to and out of sight when the door was closed.

[crowvet]

Got all the courtesy lights working properly today. Thank you all for your help.

 

[Ocotillo Bandit]

Hello all.

I have my two switches rebuilt by Gordon Wolfgang, he did an awesome job fixing them.  I hope you guys can give me a hint to start diagnosing this issue I found after installing them. Both switches work fine turning on and off as supposed to,  however the switch from the passenger side is heating a little more than normal, it doesn't burn to the touch but it's definitely too hot, that same switch came off melted and separated from the door jamb when removed to be fixed,  I have it removed for now until I figure the problem. 

All lights work except the sail panel ones, I have cleaned and installed new light bulbs on those. 

Any ideas or tips that will help me fix this over heating issue will be greatly appreciated. 

Thank you all.

Oscar.

[arnulfo de l.a.]

You need a multimeter that can read at least 10 amps of dc current. Once you get one check the current on each wire to ground. If one is much higher than the rest that is most likely your problem. Also loose connections at the switch itself can be a problem.