Wheel Balance - mid 20's Buick

[Hubert_25-25]

The demountable rims have a wheel clamp which is a lot of extra weight to add to one side of the rim.  On the front wheels, they added a chunk of iron 180 degrees opposite the valve stem to compensate for this.  I was a little surprised that they did not add this weight to the rear rims.  You can see the rivet head of the weight opposite the valve stem on the front wheels.  The pecking order for good wheels to bad is Front, then rear, then spare.  

[bradsan]

Hugh

I noticed the same thing!

I'm thinking the low speeds of these cars made it so the only real concerns with an out of balance wheel assembly would be on the steering axle as it would get transferred to the steering wheel and the operator woiuldn't be happy with the sensation.

Rear wheels not so much.

 

Brad

[McCargar]

If you are concerned with wheel balancing you should try ceramic balancing beads.  They are little ceramic beads that are put inside the tube and automatically find the light side when the wheel is rotated.  I used about 4oz. in each wheel on my '26 and achieved a super smooth ride. There are kits available on Amazon also videos on youtube.

 

Wayne 

[Patrick J Reeve]

Hough

We have an old Bear wheel balancer that has adapters which allows the ability to hand spin the entire wheel, rim and brake drum ( if  applicable ) as a unit as it would be driven. We us stick on weight sticks on the back of the rim; wow what a difference it makes. May be you could find one in your area. We also use the balancer as a rotary table to paint and stripe our wheels; the machine allows the wheel to be in the horizontal position for loading the assembly before turning to the vertical position to spin. Google won't allow foe adding balancer to the dictionary guess I better learn how to spell!!!!

 

Patrick

[Grimy]

My backyard / hobbyist garage procedure, requiring no specialized equipment, is as follows:

 

1. First, minimize runout by rotating each wheel with a reference point such as a tool box or short piece of 4x4 lumber positioned longitudinally at 6 o'clock, adding a little tightening to lug nuts adjoining areas which run closer to the reference point.  Buildup of paint on rims and felloes may prevent the rim from seating EVENLY and completely on the felloes, but the least possible runout generally indicates that the rim is satisfactorily seated.

 

2.  Rotate each wheel in the direction of forward rotation a number of times (I do it 10 times), recording the position of the valve stem when the wheel stops, using an imaginary clock face.  Let's say on the majority of rotations, the valve stem ends up between 2 and 4 o'clock.  Get an average stop position AFTER excluding the out-of-norm positions. Rotate the wheel so that the valve stem is at the average stop point.  Then mark the tire at the 6 o'clock (heaviest) position.  You then add weights on either side of the LIGHTEST (12 o'clock) position. Repeat as necessary.  When the results are totally random, you're reasonably well balanced.

 

Most rims have preloaded weights opposite the valve stem.  You MAY be able to add to this weight pack, if appropriate. 

[Brian_Heil]

I jacked up my front end and the same heavy spot on the wheel assembly would come to the bottom every time. Took about 5 large modern lead wheel weights added to the inner side of the rim but now it never finds the same heavy spot twice. 

 

Put the rear rims on the front and did the same. 

 

Weights were free when I told the guys at the tire store what I was doing and that was 20+ years ago.  Checked and made minor adjustments with new tires. 

 

Each Spring when I jack up the front end to grease it, I check my balance.  Still good.  

 

I clean and repack the front bearings about every 5 year ~10,000 miles. 

Edited December 11, 2018 by Brian_Heil (see edit history)