1940Super

1940 Buick Super Restoration

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1 hour ago, 1940Super said:

I have a short video of it running but not sure how to upload

 

You can upload it to You Tube and just imbed the link here.  With only 9MB limit, your video clip will be only one or two seconds if you upload it directly to the Forum.

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Posted (edited)

Matt,

Regarding your low (25psi) oil pressure, here is the standard fix.

Pull the pan and drop the pump (2 bolts), and pull the bottom plate on the pump.

I made a new gasket for where the pump bolts to the block out of a manila file folder and used no sealant.

On a good FLAT surface, start with 60 grit emory, and move to 120 grit, then 240 grit and get that bottom plate SMOOTH.

The dark parts in my picture is where the pump was leaking.

Clearance from the gears to the plate should be NO MORE than .005"

Apply a THIN layer of Permatex around the perimeter, and screw her back on.

Also clean the bypass plunger and passageway and spring of any "gunk".

When I did mine, I used an old used car lot trick, and stuck a 1/4" spacer behind the pressure relief spring.

She now has 65 at cold start up, 40 at a hot idle and 50-55 at cruising speed on a hot summer day.

 

Oh, and when you have the pan down, set it up on some wooden blocks and hammer the bolt holes flat.

It takes a whole lot less gasket sealer that way.

 

And here is your oil filter cross reference chart.

 

 

Mike in Colorado

 

 

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Edited by FLYER15015 (see edit history)
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15 hours ago, FLYER15015 said:

Matt,

Regarding your low (25psi) oil pressure, here is the standard fix.

Pull the pan and drop the pump (2 bolts), and pull the bottom plate on the pump.

I made a new gasket for where the pump bolts to the block out of a manila file folder and used no sealant.

On a good FLAT surface, start with 60 grit emory, and move to 120 grit, then 240 grit and get that bottom plate SMOOTH.

The dark parts in my picture is where the pump was leaking.

Clearance from the gears to the plate should be NO MORE than .005"

Apply a THIN layer of Permatex around the perimeter, and screw her back on.

Also clean the bypass plunger and passageway and spring of any "gunk".

When I did mine, I used an old used car lot trick, and stuck a 1/4" spacer behind the pressure relief spring.

She now has 65 at cold start up, 40 at a hot idle and 50-55 at cruising speed on a hot summer day.

 

Oh, and when you have the pan down, set it up on some wooden blocks and hammer the bolt holes flat.

It takes a whole lot less gasket sealer that way.

 

And here is your oil filter cross reference chart.

 

 

Mike in Colorado

 

 

 

15 hours ago, FLYER15015 said:

 

 

Thanks Mike, i'll take it into consideration. Nice job of straightening the pan. 

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Video of it running on 

 

my friend Joe controlling the carby

 

 

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Being back at work has slowed progress, will probably be until the weekend before I can do any more. 

 

Here are some photos of simple little bits I made up for the engine. 

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Flywheel housing inspection cover. Was missing and thought I'd never find one so I made one from the looking at the 2 bottom pictures of an original posted on Billy's 39 thread. Just a bit of sheet metal and used a press, vice and file to shape it and glued on the prongs that hold it in place.

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Inspection cover in place

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Clip that holds the cap on the distributor. The original had a broken hinge and would not hold down the cap.

520769349_20170409_165149(2).thumb.jpg.7c176511b1b09c8a629cdbb77ae42e36.jpg 

I was missing the 3 clips that hold together the vacuum, fuel and vacuum advance piping together. From photos I could see they were a C type clip. I used an original clip (top one) holding the 2 x 1/4" front brake lines over the steering box as a reference and had to make one side a bigger as the fuel line is 5/16th". These clips are probably available somewhere but they would end up costing $20 just to ship them out here. Also made clips to support the fuel line at the thermostat housing and oil pan and a wiring clip at the carburator

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I'm getting the steering column reading for painting. Does anyone know what the original brown colour is called?

20190113_111749.thumb.jpg.694afd593afab12e193e8ea137526bfc.jpg

The upper darker brown is what someone painted the interior with. The lower lighter coloured brown is original. I actually think its a rather ugly colour but I want to keep everything original. 

Does anyone know how to correctly paint a steering column? I assume the brown colour down to the where the column enters the steering box. What about the steering box? Chassis black or natural cast iron? i think all the other components such as gear levers aluminium or plain steel?1540244949_20190113_203524(2).thumb.jpg.c61d5d41d59170843d13961acfe8aa7f.jpg

 I ordered a steering column jacket from CARS(on right) but its very different to what was was there(on left). The colour is close to the original but it doesn't cover the hole in the firewall wall all the way. Why would the say this is the correct jacket for my model car?

 

 

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The '37's called for "Marsh Brown" on the column.  (...and some other components)

I painted mine "Savoy Brown", mixed non-metallic only because I liked the deeper color next to my wood grained parts.

 

But the Marsh Brown is proper for the '37 Buick.  

I used SEM "Trim Black" on the box to match the chassis components.

 

1958222666_1937Colors.thumb.jpg.6719e70b4eb5ab31a9a06783395f2acd.jpg

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15 hours ago, Gary W said:

The '37's called for "Marsh Brown" on the column.  (...and some other components)

I painted mine "Savoy Brown", mixed non-metallic only because I liked the deeper color next to my wood grained parts.

 

But the Marsh Brown is proper for the '37 Buick.  

I used SEM "Trim Black" on the box to match the chassis components.

 

 

Where did you find that chart? I have 9 books related to 1940 Buicks and not one states interior paint detail except for trim and seat fabric

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Back in June, 2017, I got my steering column / box back from Lares.  I was just in the process of sanding, prepping.....

 

Matt Hinson sent me a link from the July-Aug 2016 Toque Tube II:

 

From Matt:

"The colors for most of the interior components are listed on the 1937 Buick Paint Chart. You can find it reproduced on page 4 of the attached issue of the Torque Tube II.

VOL 9 No 4 JULY-AUG 2016.pdf

 

Of course, this is for  1937, but maybe the '40's are similar?  I don't know the "original source" for the chart though. 

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I would suggest you find a 1940 DuPont Buick Paint Chip brochure. I don't have experience with 1940 but both the 1937 and 1938 Paint Chip brochure has the information regarding interior and trim paint colors as well as the exterior paint colors. 

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The steering column jacket has been a problem for me also. I would contact Doug Seybold, or Dave Techney for a solution on this. Save the old one, as they will probably need to use your existing one for a core to rebuild this. Steele Rubber sells the same thing and for the price it really is a disappointment. If you find a better way around this, please let me know.

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I had Kris Arneson revulcanize my old one.  The original had deteriorated like everyone else's but was still a good pattern.  The seal is made up of two different pieces of sheet metal with the rubber holding them together at roughly a 30% angle. It is backed by insulation and is slipped onto the steering column before the turn signal assembly is installed.  I recall there being two screws holding the piece onto the horizontal portion of the firewall.

 

I do not recall what it cost me to have this part revulcanized as I also have my stone guards done at the same time.

 

http://www.runningboardrubber.com/contact_us.html

 

 

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On 1/13/2019 at 8:08 AM, 1940Super said:

1540244949_20190113_203524(2).thumb.jpg.c61d5d41d59170843d13961acfe8aa7f.jpg

 

 

 

 

This is what mine looked like (below).  I wonder if someone cut yours short?

IMG_6418.JPG

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Mine was thrown away by the "restoration shop". Whatever you do, don't discard the one you have, there is not a suitable aftermarket solution. 

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17 hours ago, kingrudy said:

The steering column jacket has been a problem for me also. I would contact Doug Seybold, or Dave Techney for a solution on this. Save the old one, as they will probably need to use your existing one for a core to rebuild this. Steele Rubber sells the same thing and for the price it really is a disappointment. If you find a better way around this, please let me know.

While I bought it from CARS it's actually made by Steele Rubber. A big waste of money

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15 hours ago, kgreen said:

 

This is what mine looked like (below).  I wonder if someone cut yours short?

IMG_6418.JPG

Those screws must screw to the pedal removable sheet metal? I'll check it mine has holes there

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I hate it when people state the obvious, but I will. If I were in your position, I would resolve the floor column plate issue before installing the steering column. Once the column is back in the car, there is not a good way that I know of to install the column plate. 

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6 hours ago, kingrudy said:

I hate it when people state the obvious, but I will. If I were in your position, I would resolve the floor column plate issue before installing the steering column. Once the column is back in the car, there is not a good way that I know of to install the column plate. 

Yes which I why I ordered a replacement to go on column now while its pulled apart but It looks like I'll be reusing the old one. I would have liked to have ordered a new firewall insulator too but I would not like to see the shipping cost of one of them to Australia. 

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image.png.1cf604ad0c5e3d96c46ebd5dc3075cbd.png

Old one above, new one below

918601521_Steeringcolseal.thumb.jpg.5bba76b5c6a19968fbe14c80d3295918.jpg

 

The new one is a little different at the base, but I'm accepting it as close enough.

 

 

 

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Ken, I would be more than happy with what you came up with. Although not perfect, it does look good. 

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18 hours ago, kingrudy said:

Ken, I would be more than happy with what you came up with. Although not perfect, it does look good. 

Considering that the older one I show is in Terry Boyce's car and the one I had was hardly recognizable, yeah I'll take it.  

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Bought some new pitman shaft bushes. The new bushes are tight on the outer wall and will need to be pressed in. The old ones are loose on the outer wall. The old bushes had a hole in the lube channel which suggest they are ment to move freely. Can't find anything in the manual, anybody have an answer?

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On 1/18/2019 at 8:29 PM, 1940Super said:

Bought some new pitman shaft bushes. The new bushes are tight on the outer wall and will need to be pressed in. The old ones are loose on the outer wall. The old bushes had a hole in the lube channel which suggest they are ment to move freely. Can't find anything in the manual, anybody have an answer?

20190119_121234.thumb.jpg.4076191e454976f2536cffdf14ce5d82.jpg

 

I've worked on this part and might be able to help.  I couldn't find bushings so I went to a bushing supplier and got piston pin bushings for a 1920's Reo truck engine as replacements.  I had the bushings pressed in, you are right, mine were floating in the housing which doesn't seem correct.  I also drilled the holes in the bushings which are to let lubricant penetrate to the shaft face.  I will check that when I get home tonight.  On the bushings, I got the two bottom bushings, but could not find the bushing for the top of the pitman shaft.  Where did you find it?  As for the thrust bearings, I could find new races for $15 or so but the roller bearings were nearly $200 each.  I called a couple bearing suppliers and couldn't get most to even admit to having access to the bearings.  Mine are in good shape so I will reuse them.

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The bushing at the top of the pitman shaft and pressed into the gearbox cover was not loose.

 

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I also attempted to determine how much wear I have on the pitman shaft and steering shaft worm gears.  I attempted unsuccessfully to mic the width ofd the gear at its' center.  Greg Johnson says that overly worn out steering gear was subject to tightening adjustment that tended to wear the center neutral steering contacts in the worm gear.  What you would then notice is normal steering straight ahead but the steering would bind going left or right.  If you loosened the adjustment, then the car would sort of float around the center neutral point, but be nice and tight left or right in any turn.

 

I'll get more pics tonight of the bushing.  The bushing that you show for the top of the pitman shaft looks too big.  Is it an optical illusion?

On 1/18/2019 at 8:29 PM, 1940Super said:

 

 

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Just looked at my steering box and the bushings are pressed in with the spacer located between them.  I also have oil holes in the bushings but they do not go to any oil passage or relief in the steering box case.  Not sure what to tell you though I have taken two apart in the last year and both were the same as described above.

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Is there an oil reservoir around the bushes, so the oil can get in through the holes? My Dodge has it like that.

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