65VerdeGS

Power vent window troubleshooting on ‘65

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What would cause considerable ‘play’ in a power vent window?  How much play is normal?

 

Would excess play be caused by a missing or loose bolt connecting the motor to the vent post?  Or would this be due to worn out gears in the motor?

 

How is the vent window motor removed?  Does it unbolt from the outside once the door skin is off?

 

Is there an adjustment that can be made to relieve binding at the vertical post?  Would repositioning the 3 vent window motor mount bolts help?

 

Anything else that goes wrong with the power vent windows that you can share?

 

Thanks for illuminating the mysteries of the power vents!

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What exactly are the symptoms?  When and in what position is the window when there's play in it?  Could be a number of things.

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Hi Ed,

 

The driver's power vent won't close all the way.  The motor reaches the end of its travel but the vent is still open about 1/4".  I can't make it close any further by pushing on the vent by hand.

 

The vent will open all the way - no problem there.

 

Also, there is a now quite a bit of 'slack' in the vent.  I can move the glass with my fingers over an inch back & forth.  Previously there was some play evident, but not nearly as much as now.

 

Could the bolt holding the vent window post to the motor have come loose?  Or the gears are getting chewed up?

 

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Hi KongaMan,

 

Yes, if it slipped a tooth then is there a way to fix that?  Would this involve taking the motor apart? 

 

I guess the best would be to replace the gear.  Where would I get one, and how difficult is it to replace the gear.

 

Thanks,

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The slop is caused by the gear wearing and/or the backing plate the gear riding on popping loose.  It's a potmetal housing with a steel plate and eventually they just work loose.  Plan on buying gears as if you have not already replaced them, they will need it either way. Sometimes you can drill/tap the potmetal housing and reattach plate w/ screws. That's if the potmetal has not totally disintegrated.

Edited by DualQuadDave (see edit history)

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In my '63, the last tooth on the pot metal gear was broken.  The motor would close it all but the last 1/2"  I could do that by hand.  I'd also have to start it by hand before the motor would take over.  BUT in my case, the motor would continue to run but not engage anything.

 

Someone out there sells replacement gears that are made of bronze rather than pot metal.

 

Ed

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for whatever it's worth, if you have to replace the whole thing the ones on ebay advertised for 58-64 chevy bolts right in. Wire plug is different though.

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5 hours ago, 65VerdeGS said:

Hi KongaMan,

 

Yes, if it slipped a tooth then is there a way to fix that?  Would this involve taking the motor apart? 

 

I guess the best would be to replace the gear.  Where would I get one, and how difficult is it to replace the gear.

 

Thanks,

 

IIRC, the gear fits over the motor shaft and is fastened with a set screw.  You don't need to disassemble the motor to replace the gear.  Although if you have the motor out, a little R&R should get you another 50 years. ;)  

 

These gears are notorious for going bad.  As noted earlier, replacements are available.  CARS has them, and I think other places do as well.

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Makes sense that my power vent gears are worn, causing the excess play. 

 

I found a pair of bronze gears on eBay for $130, including shipping. Cheaper than CARS at $89.50 each, plus shipping. So, I’ve ordered them and will dig into the motors to replace both sides once the new gears arrive. 

 

KongaMan suggested I refurbish the motors at the same time as I replace the gears. What’s involved in doing that?  At least I can re-grease the guts. What’s the best way to get the old dried-up grease out?  Solvent?  What sort of grease would I put back in?  I have some lithium grease in a spray can, but I’m thinking this will be too thin for long term use.  While I have the motor out, what other maintenance should I perform?

 

Thanks again for sharing your expertise!

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That's $89.50 for a pair of gears from CARS.  If you just want one, it's $59.50.

 

Lube the motor with white lithium grease (the goo in the tube).  You can scrape the old stuff out, or heat it a bit first to soften it.

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I've never done it as I've not had the opportunity to do so, but I was told to just remove & replace the gear backwards as the whole gear isn't used to begin with. IF you look at the gear you will probably see one or two teeth are not even worn.

 

Tom T.

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3 hours ago, 65VerdeGS said:

Makes sense that my power vent gears are worn, causing the excess play. 

 

I found a pair of bronze gears on eBay for $130, including shipping. Cheaper than CARS at $89.50 each, plus shipping. So, I’ve ordered them and will dig into the motors to replace both sides once the new gears arrive. 

 

KongaMan suggested I refurbish the motors at the same time as I replace the gears. What’s involved in doing that?  At least I can re-grease the guts. What’s the best way to get the old dried-up grease out?  Solvent?  What sort of grease would I put back in?  I have some lithium grease in a spray can, but I’m thinking this will be too thin for long term use.  While I have the motor out, what other maintenance should I perform?

 

Thanks again for sharing your expertise!

 

I refurbed my window motors, I believe it's much the same as the vent window motors. I used a flat blade screwdriver to scrape the grease off the gears (it was hard like wax), and lacquer thinner to wipe the grease off that and the shaft and bearings. My communicator contacts were dirty, wiping them down and a light brushing with 1000 grit sandpaper made them look new. Remember to clean in between them with a toothpick to prevent any crap from getting into the brushes. I used moly axle grease on my bushings and gears. Getting the motor back together is tricky because of the brushes. Use toothpicks to manipulate them, and move slow, and it falls back into place. It's a simple setup, it'll make sense once you see it.

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The gears are made left and right, the teeth are not cut all the way around . 

 

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Again, I haven't done any. How about swapping left to right & right to left???

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22 hours ago, KongaMan said:

That's $89.50 for a pair of gears from CARS.  If you just want one, it's $59.50.

 

Lube the motor with white lithium grease (the goo in the tube).  You can scrape the old stuff out, or heat it a bit first to soften it.

Well that sucks!

 

I checked the CARS website first and assumed (wrongly) that their price was $89.50 PER GEAR, not both. 

 

Their website listing is confusing.  On the top it says in bold type: "Vent Window Motor Gear 1963-65"   Note the use of the singular word "Gear".  Then in smaller type below it says "Power Vent Window Gears (L&R)"  plural.  When I went to enter the number to order it says "each", not "pair".  Again, confusing.  But looking again, they do sell individual gears for $59.50.

 

image.png.b9a9f4db9b30bed781bd2c39cd2f57a0.png

 

Oh well, live and learn...

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19 hours ago, jsgun said:

 

I refurbed my window motors, I believe it's much the same as the vent window motors. I used a flat blade screwdriver to scrape the grease off the gears (it was hard like wax), and lacquer thinner to wipe the grease off that and the shaft and bearings. My communicator contacts were dirty, wiping them down and a light brushing with 1000 grit sandpaper made them look new. Remember to clean in between them with a toothpick to prevent any crap from getting into the brushes. I used moly axle grease on my bushings and gears. Getting the motor back together is tricky because of the brushes. Use toothpicks to manipulate them, and move slow, and it falls back into place. It's a simple setup, it'll make sense once you see it.

 

Thanks for the tips jsgun!  I'll do as you suggest when I open my vent window motors up to replace the worn gears.

 

Cheers,

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You can't swap left to right, right to left. The teeth are cut so when you are at the end of travel on the gear the vent window is in the closed position. 

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42 minutes ago, 65VerdeGS said:

 

Thanks for the tips jsgun!  I'll do as you suggest when I open my vent window motors up to replace the worn gears.

 

Cheers,

Your response sound as if you think the gears are internal within in the case.  The vent window gears are external and are not as easily clogged with hardened grease.  The window motor gears are exposed when removed from their mounting bracket.  To cces the brushes, etc. You'll need to crack the case open.

 

I did my widow motors a little unconventionally.  I cleaned the old grease out per say but I hooked the 18 volt battery from my lawn blower and ran the motor forwards and backwards for an extended period of time.  The 18 volts spun the motor fast enough that I feel the brushes and armature cleaned themselves.  Regreased the gears per say and everything works great.  

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The gears are easy to change. Just make sure you test them before you put the door skin back on. I had to loosen the screws holding the case together because I had a little bind on the motor. 

 

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4 hours ago, RivNut said:

Your response sound as if you think the gears are internal within in the case.  The vent window gears are external and are not as easily clogged with hardened grease.  The window motor gears are exposed when removed from their mounting bracket.  To cces the brushes, etc. You'll need to crack the case open.

 

I did my widow motors a little unconventionally.  I cleaned the old grease out per say but I hooked the 18 volt battery from my lawn blower and ran the motor forwards and backwards for an extended period of time.  The 18 volts spun the motor fast enough that I feel the brushes and armature cleaned themselves.  Regreased the gears per say and everything works great.  

 

Hi Ed - if the motor case doesn’t need to be opened to change the vent gear then what’s the advantage of going into the motor if it is working fine?

 

Do I need to grease the new vent gear?  What lube did you use?

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4 minutes ago, 65VerdeGS said:

 

Hi Ed - if the motor case doesn’t need to be opened to change the vent gear then what’s the advantage of going into the motor if it is working fine? None

 

Do I need to grease the new vent gear?  They're not enclosed. I don't remember them being greased. What lube did you use? N/A

 

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)

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12 minutes ago, 65VerdeGS said:

 if the motor case doesn’t need to be opened to change the vent gear then what’s the advantage of going into the motor if it is working fine?

 

So it works better for longer.

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