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How buttercup got her groove back


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13 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

So my temp sender broke off in the blocit. Even with the engine out I've been unable to remove it. Thinking I may need to put some high heat or a drill to it. Anyone done this before?

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 Remove the valve cover and check if a rocker shaft stand bolt goes into it right there. Does on the straight eight.

 

  Ben

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So I popped the casting plugs out and shes not as rough inside as I expected. I guess the water pump and timing cover took the brunt of the crud somehow.

Still not sure what the black goo in the system is....maybe some sort of organic like mold or bacteria? Doesnt smell like oil, smells like old coolant. Also not milky like a water/oil mix would be. I was also able access the temp sender from the plug in the back of the head. Still pissed I broke it though.  I've contacted Russ for a full gasket set (might as well while its out) and a cast plug set.  I do think I'm going to have the water pump done by that company that puts the high flow impeller in though, can't see that from outside anyhow! I should probably use my 5-blade A/C fan. That shouldnt be a deduction if it is an original piece that was an option back then should it?

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Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

Also noticed a big difference in the 54 and 55 frames...

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Just ask any woman how much extra support is appreciated for those large dagmars!  😁 

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Well, I'll be separating the transmission and tearing down the engine this weekend.  Entire new gasket set is on the way, head gaskets to main seals.   Little pro tip.... drive your cars, don't let them sit!!!

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20 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

drive your cars, don't let them sit!!! 

 

ouch, but tha's OK, I deserve it, no good excuse to have let it sit torn down that long. BADD, it's a terrible disease.  But why are you having to go to that extent, are you sure you're not over doing it?  The car was running great when I started the extreme engine detail job and has been stored in the dry barn with duct tape over the carb and water passages, juice in the cylinders, a quilt over the engine and a cover over the car. People pull cars out of barns and fields, shoot some juice in their cylinders and off they go, running fine for years. Your blue Century was in a leaky warehouse since the eighties, she did fine right? So what did I do to ef this one up that requires a full engine tear down do you think.

 

 

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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3 hours ago, MrEarl said:

 

ouch, but tha's OK, I deserve it, no good excuse to have let it sit torn down that long. BADD, it's a terrible disease.  But why are you having to go to that extent, are you sure you're not over doing it?  The car was running great when I started the extreme engine detail job and has been stored in the dry barn with duct tape over the carb and water passages, juice in the cylinders, a quilt over the engine and a cover over the car. People pull cars out of barns and fields, shoot some juice in their cylinders and off they go, running fine for years. Your blue Century was in a leaky warehouse since the eighties, she did fine right? So what did I do to ef this one up that requires a full engine tear down do you think.

 

 

It's just been sitting A lot,   even before you got it. 13k miles in 65 years....   I had planned on doing valve cover  an oil pan gaskets just to try to keep her from ruining the new paint but the major build-up of crust in the water pump and timing cover area have me worried about the head gaskets because those were metal and there are certain passages that the head gaskets purposely block off. If those specific passages rust through  I could hydrolock an engine. And while yes the same things could have happened on my blue century, that car had a hundred and fifteen thousand miles on it, so if something happened it was probably near time for a rebuild anyway. In this case I have this perfect engine already out of this car  if I repainted it all stuffed it back in  and then blew a head gasket  you better believe I would be  parking at somewhere  and getting out of the hobby. I also know that that rear main seal is only rope and having sat for as long as it has I bet you it is very crispy rope.  So its not just you...  it's just the fact that it's a low-mileage car over all these years and the engines already out of it.

Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)
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Engine is all torn down.  No major surprises. Some sludge in the pan but overall pretty good. Pressure washed out all the mud in the cooling passages.  Degreasing and waiting on gaskets....

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Looks great and like you're heading in the right direction.

 

 

1 Fuel and vacuum lines -  Buick Engine Green (as heavy overspray).

2 Pulleys - Generator, Water pump, Power Steering, - No Paint (cad)

3 Harmonic Balancer - Buick Green paint.

4 Engine bolts - Per Dave Corbin " If you look at the engine outside, anything that's attached by a bolt that goes through a GASKET joint will be engine color, since it has            to be there to test run the engine."

5 Accessory mount brackets? Power steering main mount bracket and the 8 inch angle iron brace that bolts to the engine. Buick Green

6 Power steering pump - Black * The correct decal wording for the top of the pump is FILL TO LEVEL WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID TYPE

7 Upper generator bracket, flat iron with elongated adjust slot- Black

8 Engine mount brackets (including the generator mount bracket - Green **The flat triangular brace piece with three holes from this engine mount to the engine block - No Paint

9 Fuel/vacuum pump -The factory manual clearly states that the fuel pump should not receive paint however there are examples of original pumps that had significant amounts of overspray.  Fuel pump and lines were mounted for test. No carb mounted for test as a methane line was connected to the manifold. (thus no gas in the fuel pump making it safe for shipping and storage).             

10 Power brake vacuum pump - Black

11 Exhaust manifold...

12 Wire loom - bolts to top of rocker cover - Green; Rubber insert - No Paint (however probably received paint when engine was painted and the black rubber did not hold paint well)

13 Rocker cover and spark plug cover and bolts - Green

14 Timing indicator with timing marks- engine green with no paint on the brass ends with unpainted groove marks *  also black with yellow painted groove marks.

15 Valley Cover - Green except under middle of manifold where there is either no paint or light over spray at most

16 Blow by tube- Black

17 Oil Dip Stick - No paint or overspray

18 Transmission Dip Stick - No Paint

19 Transmission Dip Stick tube -  painted black at factory but with out primer the black paint soon baked and flaked off.

20 Transmission Dip Stick tube bracket/holder (secures to back of block) No paint

21 Coil Bracket- No Paint

22 Dash Pot bracket - No Paint

23 Carb spring bracket - Green paint.

24 Distributor - the bottom third of the distributor got over sprayed with Green, upper is factory black

25 Starter - Green

26 Starter Solenoid - Black (masked during painting of engine

27 Fan Blade - black. Bolts- no paint

28. Power Brake Vacuum line (from top of manifold to power brake master cylinder) No Paint

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6 hours ago, MrEarl said:

 

 

Looks great and like you're heading in the right direction.

 

 

1 Fuel and vacuum lines -  Buick Engine Green (as heavy overspray).

2 Pulleys - Generator, Water pump, Power Steering, - No Paint (cad)

3 Harmonic Balancer - Buick Green paint.

4 Engine bolts - Per Dave Corbin " If you look at the engine outside, anything that's attached by a bolt that goes through a GASKET joint will be engine color, since it has            to be there to test run the engine."

5 Accessory mount brackets? Power steering main mount bracket and the 8 inch angle iron brace that bolts to the engine. Buick Green

6 Power steering pump - Black * The correct decal wording for the top of the pump is FILL TO LEVEL WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID TYPE

7 Upper generator bracket, flat iron with elongated adjust slot- Black

8 Engine mount brackets (including the generator mount bracket - Green **The flat triangular brace piece with three holes from this engine mount to the engine block - No Paint

9 Fuel/vacuum pump -The factory manual clearly states that the fuel pump should not receive paint however there are examples of original pumps that had significant amounts of overspray.  Fuel pump and lines were mounted for test. No carb mounted for test as a methane line was connected to the manifold. (thus no gas in the fuel pump making it safe for shipping and storage).             

10 Power brake vacuum pump - Black

11 Exhaust manifold...

12 Wire loom - bolts to top of rocker cover - Green; Rubber insert - No Paint (however probably received paint when engine was painted and the black rubber did not hold paint well)

13 Rocker cover and spark plug cover and bolts - Green

14 Timing indicator with timing marks- engine green with no paint on the brass ends with unpainted groove marks *  also black with yellow painted groove marks.

15 Valley Cover - Green except under middle of manifold where there is either no paint or light over spray at most

16 Blow by tube- Black

17 Oil Dip Stick - No paint or overspray

18 Transmission Dip Stick - No Paint

19 Transmission Dip Stick tube -  painted black at factory but with out primer the black paint soon baked and flaked off.

20 Transmission Dip Stick tube bracket/holder (secures to back of block) No paint

21 Coil Bracket- No Paint

22 Dash Pot bracket - No Paint

23 Carb spring bracket - Green paint.

24 Distributor - the bottom third of the distributor got over sprayed with Green, upper is factory black

25 Starter - Green

26 Starter Solenoid - Black (masked during painting of engine

27 Fan Blade - black. Bolts- no paint

28. Power Brake Vacuum line (from top of manifold to power brake master cylinder) No Paint

May I ask who created this list and where it was found?

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12 hours ago, NC-car-guy said:

Found Kelly green blobs In the block and on the heads....inspection marks?

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My guess is someone grabbed the wrong can of green paint.    But yes, I would say it could possibly be a paint mark indicating the heads were torqued to specs perhaps.   Did you see any paint on the other head?  

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5 minutes ago, NC-car-guy said:

Yes but also found a blob inside the block and a blob on the back of the block where the bellhousing bolts. 

 

I would say it is inspection marks.  What else could it be with not so random dabs of paint of a totally different shade of green?   I see red and yellow on my torque tube.  Not painted like a artist either LOL.  

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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3 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

May I ask who created this list and where it was found?

 

JD, this list was first created by me on the 1954 Buick Highway forum about 8 years ago and was initially established from observations of several of my original condition drivers as well as several parts cars. It has been updated over the years as members posted their findings and from info from such sources as original factory manuals and plant workers recollections from that time period. I know of at least one 1954 Special that received a 400 point score after using it as a source for engine bay correct detail. It is important to note that these were 1954 Buicks, not '53, not '55 and not '56. While all engines were assembled and painted in Flint, they were installed at different plants and there is speculation that different plants may have used different assembly parts, parts sources and processes etc.  I still welcome input of any fact backed comments related to  factory correct engine compartment detail.

 

https://www.1954buick.com/topic/1432-1954-buick-engine-bay/#comment-9148

 

Also keep in mind that Matt is not trying for perfect "as from the factory" detail here so he will likely try to more mimic the 13,000 mile engine that existed prior to the POTM (previous owner to me) attempt to repaint the engine and inner fender wells with a paint brush. 😥 So therefore it will not matter that the painted spark plug bolts show bare metal once he swaps them to the correct side 😁 and installs the wires. The wires by the way most likely received and would have factory overspray (as I have seen on one of my parts cars and had a couple of reports from others) but in this case I suggest to Matt that the plug wires were changed at 12,000 miles 😉😊

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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Matt, I sort of suspect that the brass T on the manifold would have been changed out after initial engine painting when the power brake vacuum line was added so might should be unpainted brass. The power brake vac line was not painted. I do not recall ever seeing a painted T but have seen the plain fitting painted. Just a thought.

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and by the way Matt, let me say that I am so happy to see you giving this much attention to detail and going to the extremes that you are to bring BC back to her 13K mile condition.  I will never forget the day when my son and I went to NJ to pick her up and upon raising the hood seeing the fresh paint brushed onto the engine and fender wells.

You are exceeding my hopes of how you would treat her and the degree of detail and finesse you are demonstrating in performing this restoration work and I THANK YOU!!!!  It makes the hurt of seeing her go much more bearable 😊

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23 minutes ago, MrEarl said:

Matt, I sort of suspect that the brass T on the manifold would have been changed out after initial engine painting when the power brake vacuum line was added so might should be unpainted brass. The power brake vac line was not painted. I do not recall ever seeing a painted T but have seen the plain fitting painted. Just a thought.

Adjustments can be made.  

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31 minutes ago, MrEarl said:

 

JD, this list was first created by me on the 1954 Buick Highway forum about 8 years ago and was initially established from observations of several of my original condition drivers as well as several parts cars. It has been updated over the years as members posted their findings and from info from such sources as original factory manuals and plant workers recollections from that time period. I know of at least one 1954 Special that received a 400 point score after using it as a source for engine bay correct detail. It is important to note that these were 1954 Buicks, not '53, not '55 and not '56. While all engines were assembled and painted in Flint, they were installed at different plants and there is speculation that different plants may have used different assembly parts, parts sources and processes etc.  I still welcome input of any fact backed comments related to  factory correct engine compartment detail.

 

https://www.1954buick.com/topic/1432-1954-buick-engine-bay/#comment-9148

 

Also keep in mind that Matt is not trying for perfect "as from the factory" detail here so he will likely try to more mimic the 13,000 mile engine that existed prior to the POTM (previous owner to me) attempt to repaint the engine and inner fender wells with a paint brush. 😥 So therefore it will not matter that the painted spark plug bolts show bare metal once he swaps them to the correct side 😁 and installs the wires. The wires by the way most likely received and would have factory overspray (as I have seen on one of my parts cars and had a couple of reports from others) but in this case I suggest to Matt that the plug wires were changed at 12,000 miles 😉😊

Updates can and will be made

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