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Bdad

'63 Exhaust Manifolds - Painting?

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Looks like we'll need to pull the exhaust manifolds to take a care of a couple of small things. Looking for feedback on:

 

1) Any issues to be aware of? Gasket source?

 

2) Paint them once they are off? They look a bit worn atm. The engine is NOT original silver but instead the buick green. Wondering if they can be painted and if so suggestions?

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Buick DID NOT INSTALL GASKETS from the factory. It was metal-metal for heat transfer. Have the manifolds cut for a smooth even sealing surface & install with the stainless French locks I have in stock. Start soaking the bolts today & run them through a few heat cycles spraying in between every time to get the penetrate to soak into the threads to ward off breaking bolts.

Look for the engine code in front of the valley cover on the block on the right side. If it's a '63/401 it will have a JT & the serial number is on the left side & should match the serial number of the car if the engine is original.

 

Tom T.

 

 

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The car has been at the mechanic and I pick it up today and will get details on what I need to replace. The riser is apparently sticking and there is a tube (?) that has rusted out? The engine is an 8J (an Electra) but is '63. Not familiar with French Locks. I would have the mechanic do the work.

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Looking through past posts I found a 2010 in which the person said they had: heat riser valve and a functioning automatic choke heater tube

 

If I remember correctly from my call with the mechanic today he said my heat riser valve needs work and the choke heater tube is rusted out. Any suggestions on where to find parts or how best to handle those two items? I assumed that when the manifolds are pulled that would be a good time to paint them as well.

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A far as painting manifolds I've had two experiences that work and some that did not. Jet Hot ceramic coating...yes. Eastwood rub on high heat cast metal coating...yes. Everything else...no. PRL
 

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The heat tube comes from the top of the exhaust manifold, it's steel and is inserted into the tube which runs through the exhaust manifold.  What a lot of guys don't look for or repair is the fresh air inlet tube.  It's a rubber tube that runs from the neck of the carburetor to the opposite end of the tube that runs through the exhaust manifold.  The heat tube that goes to the choke should be covered with an insulating sleeve.

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3 minutes ago, RivNut said:

The heat tube comes from the top of the exhaust manifold, it's steel and is inserted into the tube which runs through the exhaust manifold.  What a lot of guys don't look for or repair is the fresh air inlet tube.  It's a rubber tube that runs from the neck of the carburetor to the opposite end of the tube that runs through the exhaust manifold.  The heat tube that goes to the choke should be covered with an insulating sleeve.

Any sources for the tube and insulating sleeve?

Are there replacement heat risers sold?

Edited by Bdad (see edit history)

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I've eliminated the flapper in the exhaust manifold.  The car doesn't get driven in any kind of weather conditions that necessitate any kind of cold weather warn-ups.  I've also converted to an electric choke.  

 

If the flapper in the manifold is loose and the weight holds it closed, you can probably find new springs and wires for it that will make it work.  Nothing new, only used.  

 

CARS sells the sleeves.

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Look for Calyx manifold dressing.  

 

Paint it silver.  Look for other threads to see what t the correct shade should be.  It's not aluminum and it's not a true bright silver. It's actually a rather dull color. 

This engine is a good example of the silver color; the air cleaner is correctly oriented and the Wildcat on the snorkel is correct for a 63.  The Riviera Wildcat lid should read 445 for a 401 and 465 for a 425.  But the red wires and radiator hose are wrong.  The color of the breather is too red.

Related image

 

Here's a better example of the correct color for the breather, but it's hard to match and get the wrinkles right.  This engine color is good but it's hard to see.

Related image

Any brackets that are held on with head bolts, should be painted silver.  Pullies, and the bracket from the intake to the back of the a/c compressor are black.

 

Hopefully others will contribute pictures and comments as well.

 

Ed

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)

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2 hours ago, Bdad said:

Looking through past posts I found a 2010 in which the person said they had: heat riser valve and a functioning automatic choke heater tube

 

If I remember correctly from my call with the mechanic today he said my heat riser valve needs work and the choke heater tube is rusted out. Any suggestions on where to find parts or how best to handle those two items? I assumed that when the manifolds are pulled that would be a good time to paint them as well.

1 hour ago, Bdad said:

Any sources for the tube and insulating sleeve?

Are there replacement heat risers sold?

 

As Ed said if you don't drive in cold weather climates the heat riser is not necessary. I live in Wisconsin and the heat riser on my old manifold was removed as it was non-functioning and the heat riser on the manifold I just put in is permanently in the open position. I have had no problems. It was only low 40's today and I took the Riv for a nice drive before storing for the winter. The car warmed up fine.

 

When I got my car the choke tube was rusted out. We made a new one with 1/4" brake line. Works just fine.

 

Do not buy the insulating sleeve from CARS, Inc. Theirs is not what you want. 1st picture. I bought one last year and it was crap. They said they were going to look into getting an original style but, do not know if they have done so. Go to any of the Corvette parts supplier and you can get a choke tube insulating sleeve like the originals. Last Picture.

 

Bill

 

Cars choke tube insulator.jpg

IMG_2772.JPG

IMG_2773.JPG

IMG_2782.JPG

  • Thanks 1

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3 minutes ago, gungeey said:

Here's what I came up with

 

mar11.JPG

Very nice.  Can you tell us what you used and how you achieved the wrinkle?

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Another thing you can do is leave the choke tubes off and install an electric choke box on the carburetor.

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1 hour ago, Seafoam65 said:

Another thing you can do is leave the choke tubes off and install an electric choke box on the carburetor.

Tell me more. Source and where can I learn more about that option?

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Google 'electric choke conversion for Carter AFB' and you'll find sources for the parts and videos that show you how.  But before doing that, ask yourself if you'll be driving the car in weather that will require the use of a choke. 

 

My last statement should create some discussion as to whether a choke is necessary on a "hobby" car, and if so is the old heat choke is better than an electric or vice versa.

 

Ed

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So anyone have a picture of what the 1st gen manifold silver color should be ... on a manifold?

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Intake manifold, unless it's an aluminum manifold, will be the same color as the rest of the engine.  Exhaust manifolds were raw steel from the factory but are sometimes painted or coated to resemble that for show/asthetics.  Bigger question. Are you going to have the manifolds off the engine so they can be blasted clean before painting and baking?   Or are you going to try and do them on the car?

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51 minutes ago, RivNut said:

Intake manifold, unless it's an aluminum manifold, will be the same color as the rest of the engine.  Exhaust manifolds were raw steel from the factory but are sometimes painted or coated to resemble that for show/asthetics.  Bigger question. Are you going to have the manifolds off the engine so they can be blasted clean before painting and baking?   Or are you going to try and do them on the car?

In my case I'm planning on the manifolds coming off, being blasted, then painted and reinstalled.

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There is lot of information on the internet about painting exhaust manifolds.  There are quite a few statements from individuals who have done a you're suggesting only to have paint peel or flake off after running the engine.  It would behove you to read as much as possible before deciding on a process and a product. What's good for the goose is not necessarily good for the gander.  Kind of like you're taught in woodworking. Measure twice; cut once.  

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My car had one of these on it.  Original tube with insulation was still in place.   i'm sure somewhere it rusted away from the manifold. The repair heat shield and clamp to manifold was in place with tube lying on manifold under this cover.  I clean them and reused it this way.  Choke works as it should.  Maybe not as fast or accurate as original but manifold heat reaches the choke and turns it off as expected. 

Dorman Products 55111 Choke Stove and Heater Tube Kit Includes Pipe, Fittings and Mounting Hardware

  During resto i eliminated the tube and heat riser valve in the manifold.

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