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Valve cage install Buick E-49


Morgan Wright

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I made this video of me installing the valve cages, I'm sure most people here know all about this stuff......The only reason I make these videos is for people who don't know about these cars.

 

The most unprofessional video ever, me cursing and stuff.

.

 

 

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If the spring inside the "cap" is OK and will grab the plug, they should work OK.

The constructiuon of the plug termination is strange.

The actual metal terminal has a "tail" that is back under the insulation of the wire and crimped and soldered to the wire. The wire insulation has to be slit to do that.

Then a piece of hose ,that fits the wire tightly,  is slipped over the end of the wire to close off the slit. The hose wall is 1/16" thick.

At least that is what it looks like. As you can see, the ones from my parts engine are toast after sitting under a tree for more than 40 years.

 

Has anyone ever seen this kind of terminal for sale?

CIMG3978.JPG

CIMG3985.JPG

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Yeah, the more I work on this car the more I discover that it's a pretty specially preserved original. I would not be surprised if the distributor works as is, with rotor and cap never touched by human hands in probably 85 years. I should changed the wires though, the insulation looks funky.

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That is a LOT of carbon.

 

The distributor should be OK if the cap and rotor look OK.

However, there is a ball bearing just under the point support plate that can be crudded up and frozen. If it is stuck and spins, it could damage the distributor body.

Unfortunately, in order to remove the breaker plate to have a look you have to remove the cam too.

The one in this photo was seized so I replaced it with a sealed bearing.

 

Yours may be just fine.

CIMG4095.JPG

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I can't wait to open the distributor for the first time. It might be the only place on the car without a mouse nest. If so, it might all be good. I have to unscrew the wires off the cap (the wires screw on and have a hex ending and it takes a wrench to remove them.)

 

Bob's has yellow wire sets, has anybody bought them? $58 for the 1924 set.  It needs to be yellow cloth exterior to match my originals or I will just restore and re-use the originals. The wires are tinned copper. Tinned copper is good for 1000 years, there is nothing wrong with the wires. Just the insulation. If I can't get yellow cloth (not modern vinyl) exterior wires, I'll just wash the old ones in detergent and dye them yellow and reuse them if they still have good insulating properties when I'm done.

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Inside the plug wire tube, the original wires on my parts engine are black, not yellow. Also, in the above photo, the insulation under the rubber sleeve at the plug terminal is clearly black.

Originally I think they were black.

Does anyone have originals that are yellow?

 

If I can find good original type plug terminals, I'm going to rewire using black wires of the original diameter.

 

Also, be really careful unscrewing those terminals on the distributor cap - they can be very brittle and break easily. They cost a fortune to replace.

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John Brillman has the plug wiring.   Phone 540 477 4112   It is modern inside with woven outside.  I guarantee his price will be less than competitors.  I made a set for my 17 D45 as my  car had 7mm od wiring and I went to the correct 9mm wire.  oak with black tracer 0ver 10 feet $1.60 per foot.  

 

Bob Engle

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This week I put all the push rods and rocker arms back, adjusted the valves, and checked the compression.

 

All cylinders tested between 49 and 55 psi compression. On a 4.5 to 1 ratio the compression, I'm  at 1300 feet where atmosphere is 14, so supposed to be 63, I'd say 55 is great 49 not bad either.

 

Here's the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zinkAmlbjcU

 

Edited by Morgan Wright (see edit history)
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