Sactownog

1933 dodge steering box rebuild - any help accepted

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so I got the box out, whole column came out from under the vehicle. 

 

I want to take it apart, re grease the internals, paint the external and re-install. 

 

can someone post directions on how to do this or a rebuild kit I may need to buy. 

 

THANKS AACA. 

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Just a FYI, there is a guy here in Huntington Beach that rebuilds them....may be cheaper in the long run. PM me if you want their contact.

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  1. Remove the nut, spring etc. off the Pitman arm spline (end of the sector shaft).
  2. Remove four nuts and bolts holding it together. The bracket and sector shaft "tube", with sector and shaft, should slide off. You are now looking at the worm.
  3. Undo the big nut around the steering column jacket. Remove the clamp bolt below it.
  4. Pull the steering column off the steering rod if not already off.
  5. Pull the steering rod with worm out of the box. You will find bearings on top of the worm (a cone should come with it). The bearing at the bottom may stay in there.
  6. Remove the plate over the bottom to access the seal and bottom bearing.

Finished, more or less. It is probably easier to scrape and wash off as much of the dirt as you can before you start so you have a cleanish job to work on.

 

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The bearings may not be available. Mine weren't. I found a pair of cups but the cones (with brgs) were NLA. They were in good condition anyway.

 

The sector shaft runs in brass or bronze bush(es). I had a machine shop replace them. If there is any lateral movement in the shaft, get those bushes replaced and check that the shaft is round too.

 

Stop prevaricating and pull it apart!  ☺️  It is easy and you can''t hurt it if you don't force it. I suspect that, like me, you will learn something by looking in there. If you decide it is not for you, put it back together and send or take it to someone.

 

While it is out and probably at the machine shop, disassemble the drag link and clean it up. You will be doing it a favour to clean it up and put new clean grease in there. You might even put new dust covers on it.

 

P.S. There is a pretty good chance no one will have a 1933 Dodge Brothers steering box listed as the application for a bearing that will work. You will have to work with the stampings on the bearings you have in place plus the size. So get in there and look!

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

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Here is what MoToR's Manual says about it. The first is 1947. I am not sure if you have a worm and sector or worm and double roller (as fitted to 1935-36 Dodges) and am assuming you have worm and sector. If not, I can give you the worm and dbl roller section. The second is 1952; note the diagram on 1947 pages is worm and sector, on the 1952 pages they are worm and double roller.

SteeringGear_Motor1947_Gemmer1.thumb.jpg.835f1679f992f85b87036b11ae152192.jpgSteeringGear_Motor1952_Gemmer1.thumb.jpg.f1f8fec3699e0b3f4bbf874fc744a1cb.jpg

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2 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

...

While it is out and probably at the machine shop, disassemble the drag link and clean it up. You will be doing it a favour to clean it up and put new clean grease in there. You might even put new dust covers on it.

...

 

 

Rare Parts in Stockton, California manufactures replacement drag links for 1933 Plymouth/Dodge. The original was made from a fairly thin walled tube and is often very worn where the arm goes into the key hole slot. It would not surprise me if much of the slop in the steering is actually motion between the ball on the end of the steering arm and the drag link.

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1 hour ago, ply33 said:

The original was made from a fairly thin walled tube and is often very worn where the arm goes into the key hole slot. It would not surprise me if much of the slop in the steering is actually motion between the ball on the end of the steering arm and the drag link.

That was what I found. One could hear the rust flakes or something running up and down inside when it was tipped up one way then the other. My keyholes were very nearly worn enough for the ball to pull out when in driving set-up.

 

Then and Now sell Chev drag link end kits - ball and seats and springs and plug. They should fit right in. Ball is 1" diameter.

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UPDATE: Well, I have found a place local in San Diego, CA who rebuilds steering boxes.

 

I did want to try this my self, but with the lack of time I have and the holidays coming up, I found it best to spend the $275 for a profession to complete the rebuild/resto and make sure it is 100% for me to re-install and drive. 

 

I will post updated pics when available. 

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42 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

Xclnt. Drag link inspection time?

what do you mean by "DRAG LINK" 

 

My definition of this would be suspension part? 

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7 minutes ago, Sactownog said:

what do you mean by "DRAG LINK" 

 

My definition of this would be suspension part? 

 

Drag link connects the steering arm coming out of the steering box to the far side wheel steering arm.

 

Edit: It looks like Rare Parts calls this a "Center Link Tube" even though the factory parts book calls is a drag link.

Edited by ply33 (see edit history)

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6 minutes ago, ply33 said:

 

Drag link connects the steering arm coming out of the steering box to the far side wheel steering arm.

 

Edit: It looks like Rare Parts calls this a "Center Link Tube" even though the factory parts book calls is a drag link.

where can i find these parts, www.oldmoparts.com does not have them. 

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1 hour ago, Spinneyhill said:

Xclnt. Drag link inspection time?

where can i get these from? 

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You won't find them, probably.

 

Didn't ply33 say Rare Parts reproduced them? I also said above Then and Now Automotive sells Chev drag link end kits, including a new ball for the front end of the link.

 

Before splurging money (it can be a lot of money) on it, inspect it for condition and operation. Look at Taylormade's topic on Daphne; there is good information there.

 

Also have a good look at the Pitman arm ball; it should be a sphere for best operation.

 

 

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Just now, Sactownog said:

where can i get these from? 

Take it off and get an inspection in your garage!

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Start here perhaps. This is the Pitman Arm. Page 49, post 1203 in Daphne's story. See also post 1270 et al on p. 51.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

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The least you should do it read the Instruction Book then disassemble the drag link, clean it up (it will be full of dirt) and put back together with new clean grease. You might find you need new dirt covers too.

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34 minutes ago, Sactownog said:

RARE PARTS does not have the trailing arm ends

Trailing arms? Um, not sure which parts those are.

 

What model Dodge, DP or DQ? DP after 3589318 and DQ had one part number for the drag link assembly, DP before that number had another.

 

Do you have an Owners Instruction Book? The lubrication photograph and chart in the middle is a good reference for these parts.

 

These are the parts in your drag link ends, minus the Pitman arm (LHS) and the ball (RHS).

DragLinkDP_DQ.thumb.jpg.12d074c449d49ad5d1a0d42d00c5efd4.jpg

 

 

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

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Can you post us a picture of the part that was attached to the bottom of the arm you pulled off the steering box to remove it, please.

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I will post a picture of the end's when I get home tonight. the ends of the trailing arms look like ball joints that go into the back of the wheel/spindle. it looks like an "L" on each end. 

 

 

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Thanks. "Trailing arms" in my understanding are part of the suspension rather than steering. They might keep an axle or wheel in its correct position and it pivots up and down on the rear joint..... just conjecture though. It is probably a bit modern for me.

 

This web site may be of interest.

http://antiquedodgeparts.com/draglink.htm#31

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

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