cevensky

1948 Pontiac Streamliner 8

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Thanks! Weather was good enough to spray after unloading it. Covers were painted with the VHT aluminum finish I’ve used on a few pieces because I couldn’t find my hirsch paint. For now I’ll keep them like that because I like the look but it’s an easy change in the future. I’m saving that expensive paint on some pieces and going with gloss black. Like I said, I like a certain look. I welcome and appreciate the input on correctness though, obviously I’m going for correct. About to buy some original beauty rings off a hot rodder. 

Edited by cevensky (see edit history)

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Is that a new hood latch plate? Where did you buy it ( if it's new). Or is it off of a another GM.

     Engine looks great

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Thanks for noticing, Jeff. It’s actually the original one, I just wore wheeled it and used the aforementioned flameproof VHT aluminum finish- the flameproof paints impress me and that color is really nice.

I got held up today but got a couple bolts holding the trans and engine together along with 7/30 torus to flywheel screws. Weather is crummy. May finish pre-install tasks tomorrow, may not. 

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The weather has been miserable. My concrete floor is slick with water and a small bit of oil from my ‘42 Ford. I can’t lay on it and the constant drizzle of rain is gross. These would be the days I don’t have piles of school work...

but, I’ve got 27/30 torus to flywheel bolts in (some are shorter than others, hopefully the longer ones are correct, I don’t know where else 20 of these bolts would’ve come from. Shorties will get changed) and I bought new plugs today, worked on new cloth covered wiring inside. Here’s what it looks like right now, thankfully that paint got on there fast. Still have bits of flash rust with the 90%+ humidity. 

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Today I’ll try to get the drivetrain bolted in. All 6 of those bolts. I’m about four inches forward from where the engine needs to be. I’ll have to get a come along or ratchet strap on the rear mount and ratchet it back to the frame. I’ve tried everything else. It’s heavy. My cleaned up driveshaft is in. I also got a set of beauty rings 😎 and I put in the new master cylinder while I had the real estate. 

 

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Alright. Bolted in, drive shaft connected, oil in engine, plugs in, manifolds and carb on, starter on, gas pump (of unknown condition) is on, and maybe some other things. Tomorrow I’ll get the distributor on and hot wire a coil, run some flex tube to a gas can, and see what happens. 
Does anyone have a diagram showing the shifter/throttle/starter linkage? I took pictures but the complexity has rendered them totally inadequate. 

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Nice progress!  Maybe someone with a shop manual can confirm there’s info on that, or better yet copy and post.  

 

Here’s a site that has a repro (I don’t know anything about them, though):  https://www.themotorbookstore.com/1941-1948-pontiac-shop-manual.html?cmp=googleproducts&kw=1941-1948-pontiac-shop-manual&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyKrxBRDHARIsAKCzn8wgGrQHHrOqE7XicWojJkJI6Tea-4uYRVTOJmjskG4iXL56KwoD3LIaAhmVEALw_wcB

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That manual is actually available free online in a PDF! It’s got wiring diagrams and all that... from pictures of other engines online I got the pump hooked up after I got a brand new one today. I put the pump on and it fired right up- sounded great too. I think I might’ve flooded it trying after, but it did run a bit!

Tomorrow I’ll work on getting driver‘s side brakes done, installing the fan and radiator, and getting the key wired up so I can kill it. I also need to get a better deal between exhaust pipe and manifold, if anyone has any tips.  

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WOW! nice job on the engine and compartment. I'm sure you'll do as fine a job on the brake system. Did you install a new fuel tank and steel line?

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What I’m able to find online is plenty.
Rusty- Thanks. Nobody makes exact fuel tank reproductions anymore, they’re universal and require modification. I can’t even get into the trunk right now, so I’m running off a little red gas can. 
Today I installed one new brake line, did some wiring so I can kill it with the key, and put a different gasket on the exhaust pipe to manifold. Looks like manifold is still leaking somehow... I may have to undo and retorque the whole thing. 
The engine was definitely flooded. I need to adjust the two mixture screws on the carb (see attached pic, flooded tube goes to the middle cylinders). For now I’m leaving it off for the night with paper towel to help the gas evaporate out. The first start with the gas pump was the best. I think it flooded shortly thereafter which is why it’s been so hard to start. 
Battery is charging, I’ll try again tomorrow. 

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Hi, there is a option if you find a Volvo PV 444,Duett 445 cluster, they are also 6 volt. On my pictures you will se that they a quite simmilar.

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cevensky, You made great progress on the Pontiac. Very nice work. John

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Today I put the radiator and all that on, figured it can’t hurt. This weekend I’ll try to run it, mixture screws adjusted this time and will have a cooling system too. I’ll also buy a fire extinguisher so I don’t have to worry about the exhaust leak, if it’s still present. 
I need to get that lower deck panel fixed up where I cut it... thinking something temporary (no welding) until I’m sure it doesn’t have to all come out for the transmission. 

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Today I drove it out of the garage under its own power and backed it in too. Without brakes, so it was slow and timid. 
It ran very very rich (lots of black smoke) unless I held the choke open, but then it idled very fast. I’m thinking I have a timing issue because I played with the mixture screws and they both were opened several turns without much difference (I know the standard is about one turn open). It also wouldn’t start without holding the choke open...

Can the timing cause this kind of rich running condition with a Carter WCD? Is the pump pumping too much? I have a pressure regulator I could use. The carb is rebuilt I’m trying to get away with adjusting the metering rod only if I have to. It was fun though!
 

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Edited by cevensky (see edit history)

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Update: got the idle issue fixed by my neighbor. The thermospring needed some adjustment and some timing adjustment as well. Fires right up, purrs.
It did almost overheat (original gauge and temp sender both operate well), turns out the original thermostat doesn’t work. Easy fix. 

All my brakes are hooked up: front pads look brand new, rears are almost bare. I just need new rear shoes and to bleed the system. I’ll pull the gas tank and try to inspect it when I get the chance. 
Still have an exhaust leak at the engine. I’ll try to do some orange rtv but I’ll probably have to get a new manifold gasket set too. 

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Well, we got on the road for the first time!

grill is back on, brakes bled, transmission seems pretty responsive... after nearly a whole other gallon of ATF.

I’ve run flex hose to the trunk and tied a five gallon can in there. The tank has been sealed on the inside, but has several gallons of very very old gas in it. So what does one do with old gas?

I had the original temp sender and gauge hooked up and it worked when the engine almost over heated when badly timed, but after a new thermostat it barely registered after 8 or so minutes of idling... so I put a mechanical one on, turns out the engine just doesn’t get too hot. I won’t take that as a bad thing for now. I will have to repair floor pans. However, the old bank account is running on E right now. First thing after I get some cash will be a 6v alternator painted black. 

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Edited by cevensky (see edit history)
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Great to hear that the car is back on the road. You have done a lot of good work to it, and we've enjoyed your updates. Looking forward to more.

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The photo of the back of the dash cluster--- the ammeter gauge--- Does that green wire go to the starter? and what gauge is it... Sorry it may seem like I ask a lot of questions- but let's just say I bumped into a mechanic shop tat was and now is familiar with small claims.... But hey he knew how to take things apart.... Other thing is - there are  2 trim rings that go around the clock, The first is no problem clock seats fine, the 2nd- is the problem -the one that has the hole for the clock setting screw /post... I don't want to force it thru the hole on the trim ring- but can't see any other way unless I bend the tabs, and once the tabs start getting bent they usually break off. any I ideas. 

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Thanks Paul, it was definitely rewarding. I would've gone further but I need to gain some confidence and also find my tire chuck...

Having a real gas tank wouldn't hurt, neither would a charging system.

Jeff- all I can say is that yes, the green does go to the starter and ammeter. It isn't hard to find a wiring diagram for the dash gauge online. My clock is busted and I'm not worried about fixing it anytime soon so someone else would be better to ask.

Edited by cevensky (see edit history)
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Here's a video of it running in the driveway. I've had a few successful runs down the street, turn around in a driveway and come back. Later this week I'll get the gas tank and new alternator installed, I think a lot of the noise in the video is from the generator. After that, I should be able to really cruise around the neighborhood. I also have a plug loom retainer I'm going to clean up and put on here soon. May not look like much, but I hope what's under the hood makes up for it! 

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iFthjiZI3An1Wu6r84mnQ3wM1evZQkQp

Edited by cevensky (see edit history)

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The camera always seems to amplify engine noise in my experience. You have done a bunch of work to that car, and you will be rewarded with a good running machine. Just work thru the little teething problems that always seem to crop up.

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