cevensky

1948 Pontiac Streamliner 8

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Had a 1947 chevy 6 cyl. that was stuck and it turned out to be two lifters on number 6  had some rust in their bores.

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

I’ll thoroughly check the lifters and hit them with a penetrating lubricant. But even with those very bent valves the engine was free and even giving spurts of ignition.

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7 hours ago, cevensky said:

I’ll thoroughly check the lifters and hit them with a penetrating lubricant. But even with those very bent valves the engine was free and even giving spurts of ignition.

 

  Have you tried turning the rascal backwards? 

 

  Ben

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Ben, I’ve tried to use a pry bar to turn the fly wheel both ways. I tried to get a breaker bar on it to turn it over but in trying to get the harmonic balancer off, I cracked the pulley. That was pretty disheartening and with school, I have such little time that I think more and more about pulling the engine and transmission in the Louisiana heat when summer starts. I’m not sure I trust my 1 ton engine crane with this big ole drivetrain but we’ll see. Marvel in the cylinders may work out in the end but pulling it all may be easier. 

 

The other major issue is money. It’s impossible to have a job in med school so it really compounds my issues. I’m always breaking something and needing new parts. If y’all wonder why this hobby has little interest in younger people, it’s more expensive to live these days, harder to make good money without spending money (on education), and old cars are an expedient way to drain the money you set aside for “nonessentials.” Not giving up, but pulling this engine in my tiny, open garage won’t be a weekend job and definitely won’t be easy or cheap. 

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Don't give up yet. Is there any auto mechanic trade schools in your area where the car can be taken to and they can do the work as a learning tool? Or a high school that still may have an auto shop.  Just a thought.

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Coyote- giving up isn’t in my vocabulary, I’m just saying this would go 20x faster if I could make some cash! 

In my spare hours (they’re precious few) on weekends where I’m not studying (also precious few), I’ve been working on a 1928 Model A Tudor, taking care of my 42 jeep, a 43 jeep, a 29 dodge brothers DA deluxe, and maybe some other stuff I can’t rmemeber right now. But spark plugs, gaskets, and shift cranes are relatively cheap and not time consuming to install and a model A distributor can literally be rebuilt in a field (I’ve done it). 

So im not giving up, I’m just waiting for the right opportunity to dive in on this!

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Working on getting the engine and transmission out right now. On the H.A.M.B., I found a super nice man who’s going to give me a straight 8 with hydramatic still attached, for free. I just have to drive to Georgia to pick it up.

Hopefully that one will run well enough for fun while I rebuild the drivetrain I pull out. 

 

If anyone has ever pulled such a large and long engine/transmission out of a similar car and has pointers, please share them!

 

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Edited by cevensky (see edit history)

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Today was for getting the shift linkage off, removing the rest of the bolt-ons I want out of the way for drivetrain removal, and cleaning up my starter. The magneto shop usually gets the pleasure of cleaning and painting my starters, but this old beast still works so well I can’t justify the money for a rebuild right now. 

 

If anyone has experience disconnecting this type of u-joint, I’m all ears! It’s the last thing holding this show up. 

 

 

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Chugging along: I picked up the free straight 8 from Georgia. Turns out it doesn’t have a hydramatic and I think it might be a 1950 or so, but it spins freely, came with a bunch of bolt-ons that I either didn’t have or didn’t have one as nice, and almost everything can be fitted onto it to suit the setup in my ‘48. 

I tried starting it yesterday and while there was definitely some combustion happening, it didn’t seem to want to start. When I took the manifolds off today I found a bunch of junk in about 3 of the intake ports so maybe that prevented firing rather than bad valves or bad rings. I hope. 

I just cleaned and painted the block today since my plan is to use the hydramatic and bell housing from my original engine on this and I already have my other manifold set and head painted, and carb rebuilt. I painted the bolt ons all gloss black and they’re baking in the sun right now. 

Tomorrow I’ll be doing the valves, hoping the seats aren’t trash and there’s no surprises when the head comes off. 

Then new gaskets, new head goes on, new manifolds on, new carb, and we’ll try it. 

 

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If not for a stuck (now broken) and another now broken valve, I’d have a purring engine on my garage floor... tomorrow I’m going to go talk to a machine shop because I’ve had zero luck trying to save the money. I’m not planning to do a full rebuild on either because I literally can’t, but I can’t handle running into another brick wall with these, so off they go! The newer one is all taped and ready to go, but I hope to give them both when I pull the other and get back one that works. 

The new one has a gouge out of the #8 cylinder wall.... so the block from my stuck 48 will probably have to be used. Which probably means boring. Which probably means new everything. 

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It’s out, what a battle. I had to cut the deck in front of the engine, but it can be welded back in easy. This thing is as heavy as it is long. Now just waiting on someone to take us to the machine shop

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How nice to see a car like mine beeing restored, thanks for all photo documentation. Hoe I can ask for a photo later.

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I had a two door silver streak also a 48 six cylinder loved that car . Hope you have as much fun as I did 

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Hopefully things start looking up and I can have some fun driving instead of taking apart and putting back together!

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More engine compartment progress. I’m grappling with whether or not to buy a new engine/dash wiring harness now before my engine is ready since I don’t know how long it will take, but if I do that I definitely won’t have the money for the engine parts... but it sure would be easier to install now... I suppose engine first, there’s plenty of room to work in that spacious compartment and I’ll most likely be searching drawers for spare change to pay for parts and the machine shop anyway!

 

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Edited by cevensky (see edit history)

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That wiring does look a mess from that distance, but if you think its gonna stall the project, don't do it now.

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It isn’t just the distance! The next move is to cut all of that out so I can clean and paint that part of the firewall, I’m pretty adept at wiring at this point and I have enough wire/terminals laying around to make what I need for ignition. 

Since school restarted, buying a steak instead of a chicken burrito is enough to stall the project 😂

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Well I hope the “royal treatment” it’s getting in the hands of professionals won’t be more than a few thousand. But it will be worth it, I’m sure, to have a car I won’t be afraid to really drive around. 

Tomorrow I’ll get the transmission back and clean it up (with a stuck engine, you can’t get all the bolts off the torque converter to remove the trans, so they had to). I’ll post pictures, I’m changing the engine paint color too to a darker hunter green that apparently is the correct color... but nobody’s really sure..

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Don't just cut it all off of if you really aren't gonna replace the wiring harness. The less splices the better if you actually expect tha car to work. Bundle it up and mask it and get it out of your way.

 

Go around it to make it start for now if that is what you want to do. Insulate and repair as necessary later on. it probably isn't as bad as it looks.

 

The block looks nice all cleaned up!

 

Edited by Bloo (see edit history)
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Most of the wiring has already been spliced poorly, wrapped in duct tape (fire hazard), and.... I already cut it out this morning. For now I’ll be wrapping all the ends in electrical tape and I’ll make a little harness for the essentials so it will start without a hotwire.

After the engine and its parts are paid for, then brake cylinders, then a dash/engine harness. 

Edited by cevensky (see edit history)
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In making decisions before I get the engine back, a big one is paint. You’ve already seen the color I painted the head and manifolds and the other engine. 

Thats duplicolor engine enamel (which I’m a proponent of) Detroit diesel green. 

Then I did research and people claim the correct 1940-1957 color is a darker blue green and it was that was for 17 years... well, nobody can substantiate that claim and after I ordered that color from Bill Hirsch, I went with my gut and will stick with Detroit diesel. My reason is that on my ‘48 and my free straight 8, I found a color nearly identical under the repaint. On inspecting my Hydramatic, I found a big slop of that paint, which I believe is original, on the torque converter. Here’s my photo evidence. I didn’t want a “best guess” that was unsubstantiated: to the naked eye, the duplicolor is identical to what was originally on both of these. 

 

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I can't even guess. This sort of info seems to be thin on the ground for Pontiac. There is a chart that gets posted a lot and I am pretty sure it is wrong, at least for my year (1936).

 

The color in your pictures looks like mid 1960s Chrysler B-Block turquoise to me. I am not suggesting you use that, as Chrysler turquoise I have seen lately looks all wrong to me (too blue). The green mark on the hydramatic looks like some sort of an assembly mark, and probably doesn't mean much about engine color by itself, but yeah, the other pictures look to be about the same color.

 

Pontiac apparently had a lot of greens over the years. Good luck whatever you decide. I also like DupliColor engine paint.

 

 

 

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