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1927/1928 Tourer body


RichBad
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The correct technique is to position the panel over the timber and use a very sharp punch when the nails go.  The punch should penetrate the steel just enough to start a nail.  This way the steel is slightly sunk into the timber and also grabs the nail.  Of course you should use flat head nails.

Both the timber and steel should be well sealed to avoid rusting in the joints.  You might consider a sealer such as Cuprinol followed by an oil base primer and paint for the timber.  If into overkill you could use a rust killer undercoat on the steel followed by wipe of cavity wax. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Starting to make some progress in the right direction to having a finished Body - thanks to a lot of help from Matt!

 

All the body brackets primed and painted

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Body panels all ready for blasting, then prime and attach to the body frame.

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Panels now primed and painted on the inside thanks to Matt so ready to go back on the wood.

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Also got a bunch of fittings and fasteners zinc tumbled - came up a treat so ready to start putting back together now (just need to sort them out:)).

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  • 1 month later...

Wood work is back together for the last time - it’s not coming apart again! Glued and screwed and with the metal work on the next time it comes apart will be when it next gets restored (hopefully a long long time away).

 

Matt primed and painted the inside of the metal work before it went on and I gave all the wood a few coats of epoxy resin so it should last a lot longer than it did the first time around!
 

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The first nails going back into the body:)

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Another coat of epoxy then I’ll start final fit of the doors.

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Rest of the body parts blasted and primed thanks to Matt.  Bit of work to do on the front guards and valances but Matt is making it look easy.  I’ve rubbed down two bonnet tops in the time it’s taken him to fill and rub down front and rear guards and valances!

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Made a start on finishing the doors today.  Got one glued:). Taking my time as I want to make sure I’ve got the alignment correct as there’s not a lot of adjustment once they are glued up.

 

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Hinges attached, fitted with two countersunk machine screws which have some play in the hole to allow for adjustment.  Once set, I’ll add two wood screws to the other holes.

 

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Stripped, cleaned and plated the door catch parts.  Matt nickel plated them for me so they look good and will never rust again.  The tabs that hold it together break easily and need heating (thanks Ron).  Luckily only one tang broke when re-assembling (spot of weld sorted that).

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Finished assemblies, silky smooth:)

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One door glued and drying and one side of the bonnet rubbed down - the louvres take some time:)

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Finished the wood on three of the doors - glued up and doweled the joints and fitted the catches.  Last one is glued and drying.  They seemed to line up pretty well and I still have some adjustment on the door skins before I nail them to the wood.

 

Need to figure out where to position the door catches as they don’t seem to have any adjustment once fitted  and need to get them just right so the doors close nice and tight but don’t bash and chip the body paint.

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3 hours ago, Ron Lawson said:

Just beautiful craftmanship there Rich. Is Matt going to paint your body as well ? The rate at which he is going I was thinking that he was going to try for the new year not Australia Day haha 

Thanks Ron.  Yes, Matt is doing the painting - I can’t keep up with him though:)

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Got the body off ready to start painting.  As soon as I lifted it of the chassis the front door gaps went way out which had me worried but I put it back on the chassis and bolted it down again and they seemed to come back again so I think it should be ok.

 

Made up a frame to mount it on to move it around during painting. I haven’t fitted the door catches yet or nailed on the door skins as I think that will be best to do after the main body is done and I’ve got it back on the chassis for the final time.


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Door alignment after taking of the chassis.

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Body mounted on a frame for painting.  Used a couple of ratchet straps between the front and rear and that seemed to bring the door gaps back in line.

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Even with the wood sealed, I would expect there to be some movement of things when unconstrained.  I think the wood still expands and contracts to some degree with temperature and maybe less due to humidity changes, if sealed.  I imagine the wood grain density and other variables in a natural product can affect the expansion rates within a single piece of wood, resulting in some warping/twisting.  Nature of the beast I would think.  As long as it goes back in place when constrained on the frame I wouldn't worry.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Floor boards all finished and re fitted all the parts. 
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Started nailing the B pillar panels - I think I’ve got the profile right but am just partially mailing until I’m sure.

 

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2 hours ago, Mattml430 said:

It will be such a shame to paint over all that work Rich it’s an absolute work of art. 👌

You could leave the floor boards clear couldn’t you. 

I know:). Yes, I’m going to leave the floor boards clear so you can at least see some real wood:)

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2 hours ago, RichBad said:

Finished off a few more bits and pulled her into the sun for a few photos.  Couldn’t resist hanging a rear wing on which Matt painted for me - it’s going to be beautiful!

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What do mean by It's going to look beautiful. It is now 

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Richard  you have recreated the most original coach work for these holden body cars that I have seen ever when compairing it to the original body  work , a lot you see patched and some a total loss  in translation , thank you for this post and there will be a lot of future restorers use this as a guide to there cars . Yes you have to paint it to help preserve and weather proof them  as our climate is hash on open cars . Good work mate , talk soon Bob

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52 minutes ago, robert b said:

Richard  you have recreated the most original coach work for these holden body cars that I have seen ever when compairing it to the original body  work , a lot you see patched and some a total loss  in translation , thank you for this post and there will be a lot of future restorers use this as a guide to there cars . Yes you have to paint it to help preserve and weather proof them  as our climate is hash on open cars . Good work mate , talk soon Bob

Thanks Bob, praise doesn’t come any higher than that!  But, would have been lost without your help for sure!  If my photos can help someone else further down the line that’s a good result in my book (more Dodges back on the road):)
 

Speaking of which, did you manage to find any photos of the pieces that support the trim? That’s going to be coming up soon.

 

cheers!

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  • 1 month later...

I forgot to touch up the satin black under the guards sorry mate I think I scratched it when I was putting it on the stand. Might have to touch it up with some fiddley bits satin black. 
She’s looking good mate we’ll have to get the body done soon hey. 

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  • 1 month later...
2 hours ago, RichBad said:

Off to Matt’s for painting:)

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I hope I can do as nice of a job as the wood work. Have to be the nicest bit of timber body work I’ve ever seen Rich it’s a real credit to you. 👌

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  • 1 month later...

Lockdown 4.0 can’t slow down Matt!  He’s been cracking on with prepping my body for paint.  It’s looking great just pi$$ed I can’t get down there!

 

Just before lockdown Matt made up a set of the sill panels (that go just below the doors).  They were very challenging as they were “U” shaped but had a curved profile (following the body profile) and a swage along the top edge.  Matt figured it out and they came up a treat!

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