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1927/1928 Tourer body


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  • 3 months later...

The support brackets between the doors are the same as the ones on my Senior  Is there timber under the front lip of the bulkhead ?There is on mine and lucky for me I had one to copy from  There are so many bits on your frame that are similar to my one  Its looking great  The way you are going she will be on the road in no time 

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Thanks Ron.  Yup, there is timber under the front lip of the bulkhead - was a real pain in the a to make a new one - curved in every direction with finger joints half way through the curve!  have got them sorted now thank god. Has been one of the hardest bits making that piece, then getting it to attach to the dash wood and the front A pillars with a screw going through all three and the windscreen support bracket.

I think the wood work is identical to the 6s - Holden bodied.  It's a good reminder to post some updates:)

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Making the wood that goes under the scuttle was a pain - it tucks in behind a lip and curves in every direction as well as having a finger joint mid curve.


Gluing the finger joints using the dash support as a template (this also screws to the back of the under scuttle strip.


Finished and attached to the dash support panel - old one was in pretty poor shape.  Despite being pretty knackered, I think it was the only original piece of wood on the car.


Fitted to the scuttle to match to the A pillars and drill the windscreen support bracket holes.


Close up showing the A pillar to dash support and scuttle strip - lots of pieces jointed to each other.


Bolted up to the windscreen support bracket.





Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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Starting on the last major piece of wood work - the front seat top support.  I've been staying away from this as it looks like a big pain - has to match the seat back (which has curves in both directions and folded top edge) and also match both of the B Pillars which angle outwards front to back and bottom to top.


Needed to repair the seat back first as the bottom edge was quite rusted.



Started out with making the pieces to attach to each of the B pillars.



Then made the main rear strip


Then cut the ends to match the main cross piece


Screwed and glued and sanded to shape


Finished - adds quite a bit of strength to the B pillars



Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Still lots to do but it’s looking a lot more like a car:). Fitted the front seat base - not sure how the seat backs go though - the rear one should be hinges at the bottom so I guess it just screws to a wood backing panel?





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  • 2 months later...

Time for a bit of an update - I thought with the whole working from home thing I may get a bit more time in the garage - but couldn’t be more wrong!  Anyway, had a couple of weekends to make some progress in the body.  Mostly sorting the rear tub.


O/S front lower tub section had been repaired before and was a mess so had to make a new piece.



N/S was worseBC0BAE95-4A01-4D44-B808-3F710A9B0C2B.jpeg.be54fc29f7940ec07d0ecac588c0f55c.jpeg



Rear guard mounting nuts were welded on but managed to get hold of some correct captive nuts so decided to put them back to original.







Needed a bit of patching up of the metal work.  Cleaning up the woodwork and putting in the proper screws.


Strips for attaching trim



Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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Front doors

Fitting the hinges to the A frames.  Had to cut them in so measured lots before cutting the wood - didn’t want to stuff them up.










Used some small screws to hang it together and allow some adjustment.  Once I have it all aligned I’ll drill for the correct screws.





Will finish them once I do the final fit, that way there’s still room for adjustment.


Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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Kevin BC here, fellow down undera


Just looking at your latest pictures' your hinges look in good nick, but thought I would let the  Aust  members know, about brand new hinges for Phaetons & Roadsters in Australia,looks like they were the same for some time as I have the same hinges, and latches on my 1930 DC 8 Phaeton.They are Chev hinges and you can get brand new hinges ,door latches, door extension bars, inside handles, inside front handle pivot brackets from "the Filling Station" which is a chev reproduction company in the US. The parts are identical. Budd cars don't use them but Aust  Chevs and Dodges, looks like they were used by Holdens as they built Chevs & Dodges, and Richards after 28 must have carried on with the same suppliers.Glenn Smith also has the the inside front  door handles listed under 28,29,30  Chev Catorgary,  The filling station also has temperature sensor for the Dodge 8's, don't know if same as earlier models.

Is that right that the hinged rear seat section is so, so that the side curtains can be put behind the seat when not in use.




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Looking fantastic mate it’s coming along really well. Looks good with the seats in place. Where abouts  did you find the captive nuts I need to replace all mine  as well, my inner guards are badly rusted. I didn’t know they were available. 

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Thanks Kevin, that’s good to know.  I’ve been repairing the hinges and it’s not that easy!  Yes, hinges rear seat is correct for the side screens - mine didn’t have it but a few other people on here pointed out it should be hinges and supplied the info so I could put it back to original:)


Matt, I got the captive nuts from old era services - http://www.oldera.com.au/caged-nut-all-gm-bodies-tub/ - they look to be modern weld on captive nuts that have just had the tang lengthened with a piece spot welded on each end.  Never seen an original so don’t know for sure.  You could probably modify some standard ones like these - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/283332002742



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Yea, that’s what I thought too.  I was just going to stick with nuts welded to the body - but I thought if you ever get a problem with one you’re a bit shafted so I thought I’d go with the captive ones - I guess they used them originally for a reason.

the eBay ones were for a pack I think so a bit better.

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I got some 5/16 caged nuts from my nut and bolt guy today. I had to buy a 100 but they were only 80c each so we have a few extra now. Hahah!! So if you need more mate let me know. I’m punching a small hole in them so I can plug weld them in position. 
Thanks for putting them onto me mate I was wondering what I was going to do with the inner guards. 


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13 hours ago, Mattml430 said:

I got some 5/16 caged nuts from my nut and bolt guy today. I had to buy a 100 but they were only 80c each so we have a few extra now. Hahah!! So if you need more mate let me know. I’m punching a small hole in them so I can plug weld them in position. 
Thanks for putting them onto me mate I was wondering what I was going to do with the inner guards. 


Nice!  They are exactly the same as mine just without the extra ‘tang’ I should have done that - would have saved a few$.  We all know where to come in the future:)  

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  • 3 weeks later...

Bit more progress.

Hinges fitted to the B pillars so I can make a start on hanging the rear doors.


Most of the front floor done.


Making the door stops (with a bit of help from Matt).  90 degree fold and then shrunk edge to match the curvature of the doors.


After getting correct shape folded other side to creat the “u” profile.

Top edges were cut and shut to create the top curved profile.


The screw holes have a swagged in countersink - made a little tool that I could use with a hammer to create the countersink - little trial and error but worked out nice. 

The finished front and rear door stops - still needs the cutouts for the rubbers and catch but will do that on the car to ensure alignment with the doors.


In position on the car


Had to make some sheet metal supports for the front seat retainer - these were a little harder as had a double countersink.  Modified my tool and whilst not perfect they came up pretty well.


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15 hours ago, Mattml430 said:

They came up better than new Rich. They look fantastic, the counter sinks look spot on. How are the back doors coming along? 

With a bit of help from my friends:)

Hoping to make some more progress on the back doors this weekend:)

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Got some great condition back doors that will be much better than mine (which had been repaired really poorly).


Unfortunately the rear tub had been repaired previously and not very well as the good doors don’t match too well.  I’d matched the new wood to the tub so have a bit of rework to do on one side to be correct. Have to lift one side about 1/2” and may have to change the curve.




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  • 1 month later...

Ok, back to where I was a month ago!  Had to re make the LHS dogleg again because the first time around I made it to suit a poorly repaired tub:(. 

Anyway, redone the wood and decided to make a new front section for the tub as the old one was in pretty poor shape.  Took quite a bit of messing around as everything has to line up pretty well otherwise it would look terrible.


Cutting out front section of tub



new section ready to go in



New wood cut to shape ready to weld tub (it’s a real pain as you need to use the wood as a guide for the metal work but you have to be super careful to not burn the wood with welds - but if you do all the welding off the wood it moves all over the place).



Tacked in place (lots of water on the wood).


Fully welded and cleaned up



Finished and all four doors fitted at last.



Now need to do the final adjustments and finishing of the door frames and catches then ready to start doing the final prep work for painting:). Woo hoo!

(Perhaps I should just double check the rear guards still fit before getting too carried away).

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That rear wheel arch came up nice, you must be happier with that now. Totally agree it’s such a shame you have to cover it all up. I don’t think there will be a timber bodied dodge as nice as yours. Getting it close to the paint stage is exciting.  

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Started fitting up the door catch mechanism and door stops.  I think there’s a bit of an order to it as lots of pieces need to line up correctly.


This is the order I’ve done it:

1. Set door position horizontal and vertical by gradually removing more wood where the hinges attach.

2. Set door alignment to body - adjusting top/bottom hinge in/out.  Attach hinges with countersunk machine screws at 2 diagonal positions (wood screws use at other two positions when alignments finalised).

3. Drill hole for door handle - this sets the position for the door catch mechanism.

4. Machine the door wood to suit the catch mechanism.

5. Check approximate location for door anti-rattle slides.

6. Fit door stops using door anti-rattle slide as a guide for vertical position (this needs to be located in the middle of the door stop mounting screws otherwise the associated anti-rattle solder assembly will clash with the mounting screws.

7. Note door stop in/out position needs to be set In conjunction with the door wood rebate otherwise the rubber bump stops won’t work properly.


I’m going to leave fitting the anti-rattle sliders and the door catch until the final fit up as I’m sure everything will move around a little.

Front door routing for the door catch mechanism.



Rear door and stop (the door stop has to be cut into the dog leg for the rears).






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Finished off a couple of the door stops, made some new rubbers and added correct screws (thanks Ron).





started the routing for the last door - close to having all 4 doors done.  Well, almost - still need to dowel and glue them but will do that with a final check of alignments etc.




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1 hour ago, Ron Lawson said:

You are most welcome Richard  Aren't you missing the cutouts for the door catches in your new pieces 


Well spotted:). I’m leaving them till last just in case anything moves as they have no adjustment.

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Doesn’t look like it will be long before your ready to pull it all apart to paint the timber Rich. Do you do the timber in clear or colour. Some parts would definitely look good done clear, it would be a shame to cover up all the good work. 

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