RichBad

1927/1928 Tourer body

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Are you making patterns or plans as you go or would all the bodies be a little bit different?

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9 hours ago, Mattml430 said:

Are you making patterns or plans as you go or would all the bodies be a little bit different?

Thanks Matt!

I’ve been taking measurements and was going to do some patterns after the final fit when I’ve got everything right.  I think they varied a little between body builders (mine is Holden, there is also TJ Richards and maybe a few others).  I’m pretty sure the main body is identical between the 4s and the standard 6.  All the info I’ve been able to find so far supports this.

Edited by RichBad (see edit history)

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Rubber bumpers are what I call them. The are on the door post.. I bought them from Steeles Rubber seals. Beautiful. The brass jams for the door locks and the brass  guide I bought from Myers Early Dodge, Reproductions from Australia. If you have any white metal (pot) you would like to replace just send them ,even pieces to Cindy Meyers . She will send them to "Reproduction" in Australia. The do most in stainless steel. The water jacket for the 28 DB is also reproduced . Transaction must go through Myers Early Dodge. Cindy has a beautiful website, No scam here.     

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Slow going but moving forward.  Trying to get the rear tub finished up then I can make the doors fit in between the tub and scuttle.  Not a straight line in it which doesn’t help!

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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Looking good so far.  Do you have a special machine to make the finger joints?

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7 hours ago, MikeC5 said:

Looking good so far.  Do you have a special machine to make the finger joints?

Just a router with a special bit - will take a photo.

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On 9/8/2019 at 8:00 PM, Mattml430 said:

Are you making patterns or plans as you go or would all the bodies be a little bit different?

Even a large manufacturer like Fisher had pieces that were a little bit different on the same car, sometimes not a mirror image from left to right.  Original finger joints in my '30 Pontiac which are tapered were sometimes forced together enough to spread the outer fingers, making one side roof rail shorter than the other except at the next joint back the fingers were not pushed in tight and two wood screws were driven through the joint, one from the top and one from the bottom.  The outside curve is different from left to right.  Wood in hidden places was really not planed or sanded in any way.

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On 9/30/2019 at 7:57 PM, Mattml430 said:

The back section and corner is looking good mate. 

Thanks! Got the other side finished today - much easier than the first.

 

Mike, photo below of the router attachment I used for the finger joints.

 

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Nice! Those are going to be strong joints.  

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I replaced all the woodwork with steel when I did the restoration on my ‘23. The wood was doing my head in. Am I a bad person?

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12 hours ago, MikeC5 said:

Nice! Those are going to be strong joints.  

Hopefully:) can’t be worse than what it had before!

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2 hours ago, John McEwan said:

I replaced all the woodwork with steel when I did the restoration on my ‘23. The wood was doing my head in. Am I a bad person?

Where’s the fun in that:). Although my head is past done in!  But I am learning something new. 

 

Also so needed something to staple the trim to:)

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Slow progress, but progress none the less.  Almost finished the rear end, just need to complete the bottom half of the dog legs.  Not so easy as the metalwork had been repaired in the past so I had nothing to work to as a correct pattern.  Think I’ve figured it out but those curved pieces of wood aren’t easy - especially the joint to the vertical part.

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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Dog legs done on both sides (man they were hard).  Tongue and groove made for rear floor and fitted. Roughed out out one rear door now on to the other side doors.

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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