NC-car-guy

WTB: 322 Flywheel for 3spd trans

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Need a flywheel for a 322 to mate to a 3speed transmission, as I don't think I can use the 264 flywheel.

 

Thanks,

 

Matt

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Hey Matt

      Id love 2 sell 1, but that 264" flywheel should be a snap for any qualified machine shop to rebalance! Its a really small amount needing to be taken off/added. Russ Martin of Centerville Auto Repair and/ or others should be able to provide oz and location of weight change. The only other difference is pressure plate diameter. 264" uses a slightly smaller dia pressure plate, so flywheels are drilled differently accordingly. Hence, 1995 jeep grand cherokee 6cyl stick clutch works bolt-on for 264". Mid 70s Ford "Long" style clutch for large str8 and 322". Saving on shipping alone these daze will prolley pay for rebalance. Your preference. No reproductions on either flywheel makes the 322" especially higher $. Caveat: no reprooductions for worn ring gears either although I have r&rd them by flipping around for extended use. Hope this helps! Result of imbalance over time: crank bearing failure.

Edited by 2carb40 (see edit history)
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6 minutes ago, 2carb40 said:

Hey Matt

      Id love 2 sell 1, but that 264" flywheel should be a snap for any qualified machine shop to rebalance! Its a really small amount needing to be taken off/added. Russ Martin of Centerville Auto Repair and/ or others should be able to provide oz and location of weight change. The only other difference is pressure plate diameter. 264" uses a slightly smaller dia pressure plate, so flywheels are drilled differently accordingly. Hence, 1995 jeep grand cherokee 6cyl stick clutch works bolt-on for 264". Mid 70s Ford "Long" style clutch for large str8 and 322". Saving on shipping alone these daze will prolley pay for rebalance. Your preference. No reproductions on either flywheel makes the 322" especially higher $. Caveat: no reprooductions for worn ring gears either although I have r&rd them by flipping around for extended use. Hope this helps!

Very interesting.

 

 

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On 9/28/2018 at 8:06 AM, 2carb40 said:

 no reprooductions for worn ring gears either although I have r&rd them by flipping around for extended use. Hope this helps! Result of imbalance over time: crank bearing failure.

 

How do you r&r a ring gear? Did you shot peen it or something?

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So I looked on Centerville auto repair site.  They sell a 54/55 322 flywheel and a 56 322 flywheel as separate applications.  I emailed him the question about balancing the 264 flywheel to fit my application, so we'll see.

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The 1956 stick flywheel is flat the 1955 has a raised portion around the edge. Balanced the same. "Stepped", I think is how the 1955 is referred to. I think some shops chg more to resurface. The removal of the ring gear is quite simple. Use a "rosebud" oxy-acetylene or a "plumbers torch" which uses acetylene and mixes air at the torch. Watch temp! Do not go to cherry red(might loose temper of metal) heat evenly around circumference, begin tapping firmly, if its hot enuff, you will see it move. Have patience and work around a few times. Dont just blast with hammer expecting it will fall off. Make sure you dont let it fall far, it could be damaged. When loose, fip over to present nice gear teeth to starter, reverse procedure to install. Make sure back of ring gear is tight to flywheel. Best to mark before removal with punch orienting both parts with one another, then no worries about balance changing. Some Buick manuals describe this procedure. Good luck however you procede. The coarse spline 1955 ujoint will bolt right on and replace the fine spline on a 1956 trans, so it will bolt in a 1954 or 1955 where the small trans was.

Edited by 2carb40 (see edit history)
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If you rebuild that 56 engine you should have it balanced.  In addition to all the parts of the internal rotating assembly, you need to supply the harmonic balancer and flywheel/flexplate.  

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5 minutes ago, old-tank said:

If you rebuild that 56 engine you should have it balanced.  In addition to all the parts of the internal rotating assembly, you need to supply the harmonic balancer and flywheel/flexplate.  

Have what balanced?  I thought the engine was externally balanced?  No "machining" is being done.  original pistons, rods and crank being used with new stock size bearings and rings.  The cam needed replacement, but that wouldn't really affect it would it?

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Both the 264 and 322 are externally balanced, but different front and rear as you know.  Dynamic balancing at a machine shop will fix the difference at that time.

You can attempt static balance using a bubble balance for tires and come pretty close.

Stock engines are "sorta balanced" and can be improved.  Ask a machine shop.  Not necessary if driven 'granny style', but a hotrod engine should be able to tolerate 5000 rpm without issues.  If it is worth taking apart it is worth balancing.  If you do it you will see what I mean!

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So apparently I need the 322 flywheel to balance the 264 flywheel against or I can ship to Russ plus $150 fee for balancing. I'll still buy a 322 flywheel if I can find one affordably.

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35 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said:

So apparently I need the 322 flywheel to balance the 264 flywheel against

You can use the 322 flexplate to balance the 264 flywheel against...

A 322 flywheel and flexplate are balanced the same...just one is heavier.

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5 hours ago, old-tank said:

You can use the 322 flexplate to balance the 264 flywheel against...

A 322 flywheel and flexplate are balanced the same...just one is heavier.

Yeah! What he said^! So if your ready for a 1956 322 stick flywheel PM please. Good luck with everything thats goin on now Matt! No rush on my part about a flywheel. Best Regards, Greg

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Willie is not lying about a balanced engine. My first 322 was internally and externally balanced and it was smooth as silk despite destroying the cylinder walls. This stock 60 year old engine, even with new heads on it, runs smooth but rough. The difference speaks for itself. if you've got it out and end up balancing it, it will reduce parasitic drag from unbalanced internals, as well as help with rotation inertia and fuel economy. Your bearings will last longer, too.

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With so much to repair and upgrade on my project cars I continually forced to do the cost/ benefit? With these things! Not just cheap at the expense of quality, but when its going to be driven 200 to 600 miles a year, the cost of doing it at a machine shop would prolley leave me standing looking at a perfectly machined engine on a stand$ with no gas money. As a former aircraft mechanic in the Navy I was taught to do it as perfectly as was known how to regardless of other concerns. I enjoy the satisfaction of doing repairs to that level, so my comments are tempered by the individual realities we live with. Keep suggesting optimal. Sometimes I learn what that is and can make a less ignorant decision on how to proceed. Thank you all for that opportunity!

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