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Could it possibly be the float body itself is dragging on the side of the opening in the pan tray. This is the insert that snaps into the pan edge.

Once the oil slushes around and gets hot , the float body breaks free and acts normal. I know you want to check everything before dropping

that pan to inspect that float!

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16 hours ago, larry butcher said:

Could it possibly be the float body itself is dragging on the side of the opening in the pan tray. This is the insert that snaps into the pan edge.

Once the oil slushes around and gets hot , the float body breaks free and acts normal. I know you want to check everything before dropping

that pan to inspect that float!

What's puzzling is when you drive it then park, the float is normal. Go back an check it the next day and it reads zero. 

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Mine leaked. I had to drop the pan, remove the float and re-solder the float. I wonder if when it heats up the air inside, it pushes the oil out of the float and when the engine and float cool, the air in the float contracts and sucks a little oil back in. Then the float sinks again.

Edited by zephyrdave (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

I noticed a picture in a magazine showing a round red flag on top of the oil float wire. My 38 V12 has nothing but a wire sticking up in front of the oil gauge, and I have been judging my oil level by the top of that wire.  Are they all supposed to have a red flag or is this an add-on for convenience ?

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Look carefully at the top of the float rod and you will see very fine threads on 1st 3/16" . The thread size is #0-80.As per the Authenticity Manual and what I have seen on Zephyrs and Continentals, '36-'37 used a silver ball; late '37-'48 used a flat button which is screwed on

to the rod. Some of these later "button" type may have been plastic. If you need one check with the vendors  on this site. Good Luck  

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