70sWagoneers

How to remove totque tube?

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Hello James,

I purchased a Pinion Bearing Nut a few years ago for my 1936 Special from The Buick Farm.  They may have one for your car.  You should make measurements and take descriptive photos of your original, because the first one they sent me was incorrect.  After giving them a good description of mine, they sent me the correct one.  Good luck.

 

Les

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The pinion bearings are set by the nut at the front of the pinion assembly.  I’ve been down this road before.   The main thing is to see if the bearings are bad.   The ‘37’ has a roller bearing next to the pinion gear. (Not ball bearing as in earlier rear’s). If you find its noisy and its not the outboard axel bearings.  Those are never looked at after leaving Buick.  Nuff said on those.   Relativly eary to change when youtake the rear apart.  First,  you need to remove the axels by opening the pumpkin.   If you have never done this, its not rocket science.   Obtain a newer service manual and study the proceedure.   I personally have a ‘35’, ‘36’, 38’ 47’ and ‘54’ service manuals.   Ya, I read alot to find out what it takes to keep them running.   After pulling the axels,  you loosen one side of the ring & arrier.   This is to let you return it when reassembly.   After removing the ring gear unit you are looking at the pinion gear.   In one of my newer manuals it tell’s you how to check the rear pinionbearing for unacceptable wear.  I remember it only allows .0005 to 0015” vertical movement of the pinion gear.   If more than that,  the front bearing is also worn and both need tobe replaced.   Then you remove the screws up front that will allow you to pull the coomplete assembly / drive shaft back to the pinion gear out the back of the pumpkin.   More details but you get the picture.   If you need any info, I will help as best I can.  Oldbuickjim@gmail.com.      1938-46s and 1935-58 Vickey insanity—-

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The old timers had a method to fix the worn spline.  As I remember,  they would clean the spline realwell.   Then with solder cleaning acid. Heat the spline enough to melt the solder.  Apply a coat of solder on the spline and then press the spline into the female fitting.  Resulting spline was tight again.  Their comments were that many years later, they were able to check the tighten of the repair.   All were like new.   So, having a small coating of solder on the spline works.  

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Ive almost got everything ready to reassemble. Any advice on the 3 set screws that lock the pinion collar in place? Im guessing the tapered part of the screws pushes the pinion collar forward and i just tighten all 3 evenly until "snug".

Thanks

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You have the right idea with the screws. NBo adjustment there, just tighten.

Be sure to clean the threads and apply some sealant, otherwise you will most likely have a lleak

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If you have a '38' or later service manual, they tell you how.   Other  later service manuals work.   The first thing is to put the double row ball bearing on the front of the pinion shaft.  You then screw on the front nut and torque it to  -  I believe about 130#' to 140#'   That sets the bearing.   Then clean up the shims so they are clean.   Those shims set the position of the pinion gear against the ring gear.   Install the shims back into the  housing with a bit of oil to keep them from moving.   Then you slip on the pinion collar and follow it with the rear roller bearing.   Now this is important - you NEED to have the assembly spacer ring that keeps the roller bearing forward as you push the assembly forward into the carrier housing.   Also, twist the pinion collar to ALIGN the holes on the collar with the three screws in the carrier housing as you push it together.   If you don't get them aligned as you get it together, the holes in the spacer won't align with the holes where the screws are inserted.   If you are close, you can move the pinion collar by sticking a small screw driver in the hole to make sure they are aligned.    As you put the three screw in, they will provide the final alignment.  The service manual tell you how to sequence the three screws  -  tighten them correctly.   You will not be able to move the collar (rotation wise to align with the three screws)) once you start pushing it together.  Been there / done that, redone that again - - duh !    You need to use the spacer (C-shapped) to keep the roller bearing forward as you push it all in place.   After you have pushed it in place, you remove the instillation spacer and its sone.   NOW I remember - there may be a spacer ring between the pinion gear and the roller bearing to keep the roller bearing from moving rearward and touching the gear.   So sorry if my memory is not all there,  I am suffering from 'old timers' so I use my service manuals.   This should give you a good run at it.     Then you need to put the drive shaft back on the front of the pinion shaft.   I used teflon paste to lubricate the male spline for assembly.   Do it slowly to get the cross pin hole aligned.   I went to my favorite machine shop and played it on their metal bench.  Fixed the transmission end to a non moveable block ? and then used a screw jack on the pinion gear (with an aluminum block to protect the gear.   Slowly pressed / moved the two parts together until the cross pin holes aligned and then put in the cross pin.   Now yo can use any (?) 1/4" bolt for this function.   I used a grade 5 NF bolt and a lock washer to keep it together.   Being a nut about balance,  I matched the head of the bolt with a regular washer to try to keep the same weight at both ends of the bolt.   Works.  If you have a drive shaft shop close by, you can then take the complete assembly there and have them balance it perfectly.    A great way to finish up a part that you will not be able to do easily in the future.    Read you service manual to see if I forgot anything.   By the way,  "Dr Earl"  the moderator on these forums,  has the spacer assembly ring and the very important  forked tool to tighten the carrier bearing on final assembly.     It is not rocket science, just proper procedure with the proper tools.     JMHO

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I used a roll pin to hold the driveshaft and pinion in place.

As tough as the press fit is between the driveshaft and pinion, the  pin seems innecessary - but I did it.

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Yes, the pin is mostly redundant.   The possibility of the drive shaft needing the pin is a lawyer / engineer solution for a non existant problem.   The shafts I’ve worked on would never needed the pin.  The bolt I used is there JIC .   BY using a bolt, it becomes easier IF you need to seperate the pinion / drive shaft again.......

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I did the rearend on m,y car when I converted to 3.9's

On disassembly, I found the pinion shaft welded to the driveshaft (nutso). When I cut the weld and took it apart, I found out why the weld. The pinion and driveshaft splines had been wallowed out and were really sloppy. I wondered how the heck that happened as tough as it usually is to get these 2 things apart.

I do not know the history of this car, but it had about 75K miles on it - showing on a broken speedometer.

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Hello good luck on your rear end project I am currently doing this on my 1949 ,torque tube on it bolts to carrier .I am going to change out the complete carrier assembly with one from a Buick that is street rodded Was looking for new ring and pinion gears , but with no luck so far .I have a post looking for parts on the post war forum going to update it once I get it changed over.It has a howl like being chased by a pack of wolves. Pinion gear will have numbers stamped on it to show how much it is from standard for shimming , unfortunately you would need the dealer tooling to set it up that way, shims in pinion housing adjust it for gear mesh you may have to blue up the gear set to check mesh,trial and error .Again Good Luck.Gary

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Shop manual will show how correct mesh pattern on gear teeth at least the 1948 49 does,

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If mr. Earl will let you borrow the Special tool set that would be the way to go save a lot of time .once again shop manual shows how to use it .

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Well, its back together, it spins, and it doesnt make noise... so I'm alright for now. Seperating the driveshaft from the pinion shaft was the hardest thing. I hung the assembly from a forklift with a bearing splitter and used a oxy-acetylene. When it had some heat, i picked the whole thing up and slammed it down on the bearing splitter. Brutal; I know. I replaced the pin with mild steel I turned down a couple of thou less than the hole. Replaced all the bearings which I found one of each of all four from different vendors (Bob's wants about $100 per bearing, I found em about $25 each). I made my own carrier bearing wrench. I set it up with the original set of pinion shims and about 0.006" backlash and hoped for the best. There was plenty more I WANTED to do but I tend to overdo things. Thanks to everyone that helped. If I can answer any questions, let me know

Thanks

James C

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Just replacing with New bearings and set up with the proper clerances will give you a nice relatively quiet rear assembly.    I found Olcar to have a nice selection of bearing at a reasonable cost.   Several bearings are ‘standard’ size so you could buy them from a local bearing shop.   I owned a bearing shop for 18 years so I got familiar with them.    A good machinist can make some sleeves to change the OD  to match some of the “factory” only bearings.   When things get unavilable,  things become more fun to repair.  Junk to gold.

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Gdmn852,   With the stock 49 rear end you can get a better rear ratio.  You have a ‘removable’ torque tube.   You can get a later dynaflo ratio and make your car decent enough to run on the highway.   BTW,  I am a VERY BIG FAN of NOT running my straight 8 engines over 3000 rpm for anything except passing of a slow car.   You can change the third member to something like a 3.6 (standard tranny ratio).   I think you can use a 3.41 ratio from a dynaflo rear.  (‘54’ rear).   Makes your car good on the highway.   With dynaflo tranny, you can use the lower ratio’s and still accelerate nicely.  No one knows as the up grades are hidden.   Since you have a post war Buick, they make a disc brake mod.   That will give you fade free heavy stopping so you don’t bend any sheet metal.   If nothing else, you can just bolt in - 2-1/4” wide front brakes (later - around early 50’s) for great stopping.   As you know, your car does a greater degree of stopping with the front brakes.   The rear’s just come along to keep the back end from locking up and making neat tire tracks on the street.  I am a BIG fan of good brakes on our old cars.  My world of +million people, plus way to many tourist who have no idea where they are going and the rest are to old - - 

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Jim...what is the part number ( or other ID )   for  the two bearings for the pinion shaft     1937   Buick  Special. ?

 

Thanks  Jack Worstell            jlwmaster@aol.com

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Hello I might be able to answer the bearings numbers in a couple of days ,when I take apart my 1949 differential.

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70sWagoneers...….did you replace the pinions bearings because they were noisy ??

 

Jack Worstell         jlwmaster@aol.com

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Hello going to change out the whole differential carrier with another,have the rear end out of car ,pinion bearings feel rough when turning drive shaft going to take it apart just to check it out once I get the other one in.

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Got mine from OlCar bearings.    1-910-693-3324   George Bachleda.   Good pricing and he is here on the east coast - not california - - -

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