Towing vehicle for a DB

[auburnseeker]

No title,  End game.  Time to look for another truck.  Good thing is you aren't trying to find one in Upstate NY. 

[JACK M]

19 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said:

I do not have a title as I've lost it but I will give you a bill of sale no problem. Everything is legit and I'm not trying to screw anyone around.

 

This may not be to big of a deal if he did indeed transfer it into his own name. One could have him apply for lost title.

But it sounds like a fishy deal to me.

Anybody that says "I'm not trying to screw anyone around" usually is.

[Mpgp1999]

There is this one. The guy says he lost the title but it has been registered in his name for 6 years. He said he would come with me to AAA, he’s a member, to tag it there. 

 

https://goldcountry.craigslist.org/cto/d/1997-ford-350-powerstroke/6701194615.html

[JACK M]

That is a good truck.

I wouldn't even consider selling mine unless I was offered what I paid new.

[auburnseeker]

As long as he can hand you current transferrable paperwork in his name it doesn't sound too bad.  Did you ever check into the whole diesel tax/ surcharge thing for smog? 

[Alan Cutler]

23 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said:

There is this one. The guy says he lost the title but it has been registered in his name for 6 years. He said he would come with me to AAA, he’s a member, to tag it there. 

 

https://goldcountry.craigslist.org/cto/d/1997-ford-350-powerstroke/6701194615.html

 

Amador County can be tough, and that's over in Mole Hill.....If your thinking of Gold Country, I would look more toward Calaveras County...less "Country" more City Folks over there.

[Alan Cutler]

IMO, this is the perfect hauler....LINK

[Spinneyhill]

Interesting. A 400 ci. V8 putting out just 169 bhp! I hope it has a good torque output.

[C Carl]

Well now we are getting somewhere. Late '70s Ford light trucks are very good vehicles. I've had a couple. If only it had a big bad 460 with the C-6 trans, (you should know, Mathew, an automatic makes for a better tow vehicle for several reasons). Hmmmm............, hey now ! Hey!!!! All this just reminded me of something. A friend of mine has a '79 3/4 ton Ford van which used to belong to me. A 460/C-6. Lots of relatively new mechanicals, relatively low miles.Tough old truck. I looked at a lot of vans before I found this one, maybe 25 years ago. As the song goes : "Ain't very cherry, she's a oldie but a goodie ", by now. Your parents might not approve, though. Im sure you could get it for no more than a grand. Put just a little more $ in it, not much, and you are good to go. With all that engine, though, good as it is for towing, if you have a long daily commute, by and by you will eat up the thousands of bucks you have saved over other trucks. In Seattle,  should I ask him ?   -   CC 

[Mpgp1999]

UPDATED 

 

I Bought a 1997 F350 with just under 150k.  

[auburnseeker]

Good luck.  Hopefully they were better on maintenance than appearance care.  Those are some weird high dents.  How does she run and drive?  How much did you have to give?  

[Mpgp1999]

I paid the guy 5600 and about 500 in registration fees. The high dents are from when he said he forgot to put the brake on. The truck originally came from a forestry service.  

[JACK M]

7.3 diesel ?

[Mpgp1999]

7.3 Diesel California smog exempt 

[Grimy]

13 minutes ago, Mpgp1999 said:

7.3 Diesel California smog exempt 

Uh, I doubt it's smog exempt.  I'm in CA, bought a 1999 7.3 new in 1998, and still use this great truck for towing.  It WAS smog exempt until BAR changed the rules somewhere around 2005.  That MAY be because I live in one of the nine Bay Area counties subject to tougher standards.  The truck has been subject to biennial smog inspections for more than 10 years, but those are limited in scope compared to gasoline engines--but cost the same.

 

BTW, under California law, the change of ownership smog inspection is the responsibility of the SELLER.

[Mpgp1999]

I have it tagged now and the dmv said no smog for diesel 97 and older. I am in Marin county. 

Edited October 26, 2018 by Mpgp1999 (see edit history)

[JACK M]

I bought mine new in 95.

It has had a couple of kind of expensive repairs over the years, but not enough to prompt a replacement.

Only 144K on the clock and rarely stays out side.

Pretty much all the miles are over the road towing.

Ignore that canopy, its kind of a joke around here.

[22touring]

This is obviously a case of, "If you can't say something nice, say nothing at all."

[JACK M]

37 minutes ago, 22touring said:

This is obviously a case of, "If you can't say something nice, say nothing at all."

 

I think the buyer got a nice truck.

I do see a dent or two but that doesn't really take away from its utility.

[auburnseeker]

It's hard to say what shape it's in from the one photo.  While I know cosmetics don't matter one bit to some and a vehicle that has a well used look can be in top operating condition,  often one that has an abused look was abused both in maintenance and Cosmetics.  Show us some more photos. 

I do know I was looking for a front bumper on craigslist for my Dad who hit a deer with his and the trucks I saw listed were over 10G or really beat or rusty or all the above.  Atleast you don't have the rust issue to deal with.    Seems the book price on my 06 Diesel,  is off by 50 percent from what I saw for sale.  Maybe it's wishful thinking by the dealers as none were priced in the book range.  My dad said a local guy just sold his rotted to death 06 and got 11 G for it (probably with a plow and not terribly crazy mileage but still,  it's rust and it doesn't go away and really can't be stopped once it's really into it. )

[Mpgp1999]

Update 

the good 

about to turn over on 150k

lots of torque 

oil change 

transmission fluid change. 

Gooseneck hutch in bed 

Backup camera and lights installed 

 

The vacuum brake booster went bad so the previous owner put an electric one on a switch. ( I will immediately know if it is not on because I cannot push the brake pedal) 

 

there is a tuner on it. It has stock mode race mode economic mode and towing mode 

 

the bad 

grinds when downshifting into second 

very hard to shift into reverse( most of the time it grinds and won’t go into gear)

an ac hose is broken

has aftermarket rims 

tires are extremely bald 

no jack or spare 

small chip in windshield 

no radio

headliner sags 

Something took a bite out of the bench seat

losy key for tow hitch ball

has a lift( looking for stock front leaf spring brackets)

one headlight went out ( not a big deal)

dents and scraches

 clear coat almost gone 

rust on the roof 

Several codes such as p0603 p0236

ignition key copy only 

loose steering 

cigarette lighter not working 

Cost 150 to fill up from quarter tank 

Edited October 29, 2018 by Mpgp1999 (see edit history)

[Mpgp1999]

[auburnseeker]

Engine Mods may have something to do with the codes.  Aftermarket wheels aren't the worst either and look to be in good shape.  Tires will probably run you 800 or more for a set off ebay if you go new. Unfortunately nothing you can do about the clear coat other than a repaint.  As long as you are happy with it, that's all that matters. 

The tranny issue doesn't sound good.  Sounds like it needs a rebuild?  My stick 06 Shifts fine with 150KMI on the clock in all gears. 

[JACK M]

Im not familiar with how the clutch mechanism works but it sounds like it may not be completely disengaging.

If its hydraulic try bleeding it, if its mechanical try backing off the adjustment at the bellhousing. There should be a bit of slack there.

[Spinneyhill]

Also look for oil dripping off the bell housing. It may also be on the clutch, causing it to stick a bit.

[Mikefit]

Not sure of the years but the firewall had a bad habit of bending out and you would have very limited club release . The pedal pushed in like stepping on a bag of dog dodo. Have some look at the firewall when you push the clutch in. Ford has a reinforcement kit to fix it if it is one of years.   Mike

[multiscepter]

Regarding the difficulty in shifting, take a look at the clutch pedal bushings.  The problem described with shifting sounds eerily familiar, with my '92 Bronco.  The brake and clutch pedal arms rotate about a common shaft, on either end of this shaft are plastic bushings.  Any lateral or longitudinal play in this shaft will manifest itself as problems with shifting.

I recommend, with the engine off and the parking brake set, to depress the clutch pedal by hand.  Take note of the shaft (in particular to the far right looking forward), if excessive lateral or longitudinal play either the plastic bushings have been compromised and/or the nut on the right side (looking forward) has backed out. 

 

[Mpgp1999]

[auburnseeker]

On your tranny issue.  I would also check for any worn bushings on shift linkage.  I'm not sure if these are like a toploader transmission or if they utilize linkage.  Totally different animal,  but My wife's VW cabrio  wouldn't go into 1st last year.  I ended up rebushing everything with a kit they made for it (shows you how common a problem it is) and it worked great afterwards.  Lots of linkage and pivot points in those.   Good luck on it. 

Did your parents ever get over you buying a truck?

[JACK M]

2 hours ago, 30DodgePanel said:

Am I the only one on the DB forum perplexed ?

I understand you are towing a Dodge Brothers but this is 5 pages of Ford truck discussion on a DB forum. This has absolutely nothing to due with Dodge Brothers other than what is being pulled. 

 

Lost me in first post with Ford

 

 

People come to these forums for information al the time.

This young man has been asking questions from the experts here.

He asks here because he was welcomed when he first came on here.

I guess if you don't want to read his posts you don't have to, but he is asking the right questions and has found a few answers (suggestions).

I think it has to do with the brotherhood of the hobby to share information. You want to be part of that don't you?

As you pointed put, he has a DB, but I don't really see that as a requirement.

 

There may be better places to look for Ford info but I think he feels comfortable with us.

 

[MCHinson]

The original poster asked his question here, apparently wishing to get advice from his fellow Dodge owners. He has received 5 pages of advice here already. Reporting a post for being in the wrong forum after 5 pages of answers is not going to get it moved. The purpose of the forum is for communication about the antique car hobby. Clearly this particular post has accomplished its purpose here. If you had reported it when it was first posted, a moderator would have probably moved it. There is no need to move it now. You continuing to report it to the moderators will not get it moved. 

[Mpgp1999]

Update: rebuilt transmission. Shifts like a dream. New oem dual mass flywheel clutch kit and new master and  slave. I have just about everything working well. Now I am ready to go to the national meet in Missouri a 4500mi round trip. Now all I need is 450gallons of diesel. Thank you everyone for the help. 

Edited May 10, 2019 by Mpgp1999 (see edit history)

[Spinneyhill]

10 drums of fuel might be a bit much to carry with you!

[Grimy]

As soon as you get out of California, diesel will be at least 20 cents cheaper!  On the back haul. be sure to top off before you re-enter Calif.  Because the Reno/Sparks stations are a little greedy, I prefer to fuel in Fernley, NV, about 35 miles east of Reno, but get away from the I-80 interchange and go towards city center a mile or so for MUCH cheaper fuel.