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Engine Removal


VickyBlue

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if it's the '56 that's in your avatar NO. BUT, you need to support the trans. or else the mounts will rip apart.

Since this is a Riv. board again NO. again support the trans. Use blocks of wood or whatever so it doeesn't move. A jack may sink over time without you knowing.

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Turns out the bumper was in the way and I couldn't reach over... After the bumper and the center section of the headlights was removed, I had to stop again,  as the hood was in the way. Needed 6" before the oil pan could clear the radiator cross member, so I called my next door neighbor, I drilled 2 tiny pilot holes on each hinge and with his help, we lifted the hood off the car. The rest was easy. Engine is on the stand, secured. 166 teeth flex plate, is missing a tooth...

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Edited by VickyBlue (see edit history)
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On 8/27/2018 at 8:09 PM, rocky5517 said:

Have a good look at the rear seal while you're there. You'll never be that close again.

Mine loses about a tablespoon a month but if I push it hard, it slows down to next to nothing. Nothing that 25 cents of kitty litter can;t handle. When we had th trans out, this is what we saw; can't say the effort to pull the engine, or chance breaking the exhaust manifold bolts, is worth it. Let;s hear what the experts have to say.IMG_4730.JPG.ec6f32fbfeb58fa895ee7a9bbb4

 

Rear main is fine Rocky...

 

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On ‎8‎/‎27‎/‎2018 at 1:59 PM, VickyBlue said:

When I pull the engine out without the transmission, do I have to drain the transmission fluid? I am getting ready to pull mine out... 

Thanks,

It looks like your Riv is a 68, correct?

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On ‎9‎/‎3‎/‎2018 at 6:24 PM, VickyBlue said:

All exhaust manifold studs are free!!! None of them broke. I used a can of PB Blaster, soaked them every hr on the hour for 2 days... No heat needed. I am also 3 lbs lighter, from all that fasting... :)

. . . could have been the prayers too, in addition to the PB Blaster Vicky Blue ?

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Prayers, fasting,  Holly Father's, doing my Cross every time one came out, you name it I did it... The timing chain had me do circles around myself for half an hour... I failed to see the arrow... I was looking for a dot. And since there was no dot, I mistook the hole underneath the arrow for the dot... I know, I know... One would assume that after 50 years of messing around with holes and dots, I would know the difference... Once the new timing gear set would not fit with the arrow pointing upwards, I went to the book. I then saw the arrow needs to be pointing at 6'oclock... After that everything else went it fine. 

Today was a cleaning/scrubbing day...

Timing cover looks as new, I measured the oil pump gears set distance against the cover and it was at .002 which is within specs, according to the book, but I went ahead and ordered a new set from TA, together with the oil plate booster kit, the flex plate and the Viton rear main seal. Manifolds had no gaskets, should I put gaskets, or will they crack with gaskets? I also got all new engine bolts set from here

http://diecastmusclecars.com/dcm455bolts.htm  really cool guy...

 

89K documented miles PWB... I am a believer now... I was driving on borrowed time. Thanks for not letting me quit... 

Edited by VickyBlue (see edit history)
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The manifolds came from the factory without gaskets, but both mating surfaces were brand new and flat.

You can clean up the manifold mounting surfaces, but its probably best to use gaskets to insure a good tight seal.

Copper manifold gaskets are better than composition ones, which can deteriorate with heat and age and blow out, needing replacement.

 

 

 

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12 hours ago, VickyBlue said:

Is this re- usable? 

 

The mounts appear great. Does the rubber still flex with an imprint?

If you cant separate with a few pounds of force they should be good.

As you know left and rights are not interchangeable. And anything new is probably garbage that can NOT withstand heat or vibration.

 

I'm sure TA sells a decent product but it may be more race rigid poly?

Edited by PWB (see edit history)
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Rear main seal is dry... the car was not leaking any oil to begin with. Other than the pan seal being original and petrified, there were no other leaks. I ordered a new Viton seal from TA just in case... I am not sure what to do, replace it anyway (and what if it starts leaking) or leave it the way it is... My only concern is, what if it starts leaking when the miles start piling up? Everything is painted, intake, valve covers, timing cover, oil pump cover and exhaust manifolds.

I also read that the oil pump idler gear that rides the short shaft, should have a 1/8" oiling hole. Mine does not, should I drill one like the picture shows?

 

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Edited by VickyBlue (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

I thought to go out of my way and buy new motor mounts from BF. I really didn't need them, but since I was there... it seemed a good idea. He sent me the wrong one for the Right side. Does anyone know if the correct right side exists? This one 1231008 does not fit the Riviera. I failed to see it fits the 67 and he failed to see that  II ordered two different mounts for the same car... Very frustrating...

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26 minutes ago, VickyBlue said:

I thought to go out of my way and buy new motor mounts from BF. I really didn't need them, but since I was there... it seemed a good idea. He sent me the wrong one for the Right side. Does anyone know if the correct right side exists? This one 1231008 does not fit the Riviera. I failed to see it fits the 67 and he failed to see that  II ordered two different mounts for the same car... Very frustrating...

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You can ask to return the mount for a refund. 

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He is pretty sure he has the correct nos right mount at the warehouse. He will send me some measurements to compare and mean time he told me to mail it back to him... The left one is spot on, I might just use my right one as it looks like new. The plan is to put the motor back into the car on Saturday. Tomorrow will be engine bay painting day.

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