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53 pontiac clutch stuck


john hess

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I have an issue with the clutch on my 53 pontiac. The clutch will not disengage. I have just bolted body back on the frame. The chassis and running gear have been rebuilt. I have been driving the car (chassis and engine, no body) around the property for maybe 1 1/2 years with no issues. Now, recently I have been working on the underbody of the car. That work is done. The chassis was sitting outside covered up these past 5 weeks. Is it possible that the clutch disc is rusted to flywheel. If so, any suggestions ?? Here in Southern Pa we have been hit with about 20 inches of rain in the past few weeks. This is why I think it is stuck. What do you think?. I'm trying to avoid pulling transmission at this point.      ??????? Thanks, John

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This is a common problem on cars that sit around. You need to get underneath and see if there is an access plate on the bottom of the bellhousing. You need to get at the clutch. With the plate off, push the clutch pedal down and hold it down, now slip a knife blade or putty knife between the clutch plate and flywheel, and between the clutch plate and pressure plate. If you want to be sure you got it loose turn the engine half a turn and do it again. This should free off the clutch, if you drive it around and slip the clutch a bit it will polish smooth.

 

To prevent it sticking again prop the clutch pedal down when you park it for long periods.

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Yes, sitting in damp weather can sometimes rust the clutch disc friction faces to the flywheel and pressure plate.

 

If you can't easily gain access to the disc, and it is just rust-grabbing, sometimes you can free it by,..... push the clutch pedal in all the way and prop it there with a piece of wood, or tie it with rope. Put the trans in a high gear. Push on the top of a tire to rock the car forward and back. 

 

If that rock the car in gear by pushing on the top of a tire method doesn't pop it loose don't try to force it by stronger means, you could rip off pieces of the friction disc surfaces.   Do whatever it takes - even if you have to pull the trans off - to get in at the disc and pry it loose by the putty knife method.

 

Paul

Edited by PFitz (see edit history)
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After WW2 a luxury car brand in UK, advised their dealers to release stuck clutches,  by removing the inspection cover and spraying the clutch liberally with acetone (nail varnish remover), and allow it to penetrate a few minutes. You then jacked up the back wheels onto stands, started the car, and with the clutch pedal depressed, put on the brakes. This normally will free the clutch.

Viv.

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My 49 chevy would stick in 2 weeks, every time. Hopefully you have a bottom clutch cover. Remove it, Block the clutch pedal down and slip a blade between the disc and flywheel. I used my wife's cake cutter. Kind of a looong putty knife. It takes a surprising little amount of effort to free the disc and you will know when it frees up by the "TING" as it releases............Bob

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GOT IT...... Thanks to all for the quick response. This forum is awesome !!!!. Took the plate off the bottom. Did the putty knife trick. Had to hit 3 points around the flywheel. Awesome wife helping also. Just kinda tough getting underneath. Belly not the same size as what it 40 years ago! I'm thinking that the newly refaced flywheel is not polished enough yet from use and quickly rusted in this damp weather. Oh well, maybe this will help convince wife I really do need a heated garage !! Thanks again John

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33 minutes ago, viv w said:

with acetone (nail varnish remover),

 

The MSDS sheet for spray brake cleaner says it is 97% Acetone and 3% toluene, if that is your problem.

 

The only time I ran into a stuck clutch the spline of the transmission input shaft had rusted and did not allow the clutch center to slide. I got a spray nozzle up close and lubed it. With the pedal held down a few whacks with a long punch got things sliding again. I have heard the diagnosis of stuck to the flywheel surface, that is how the one I just mentioned came in, but it weren't so.

Bernie

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1 hour ago, john hess said:

this will help convince wife I really do need a heated garage

Just done that. Wow, what a difference. The humidity is 15 to 20% lower so the dew point is lower so it doesn't sweat in there. Before the heat pump was installed, I was looking at the back of the temperature gauge. There was a drop of water on the wire attached to the gauge, just ready to pull itself down inside the shrink wrap.

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Prop the clutch pedal down (clutch released) and it can't stick. This is recommended for any car in long term storage. Might not be good if you have a hydraulic clutch.

 

In one case I had to drill a hole in the bellhousing with a hole saw to free a clutch because there was no opening. This was on an old Nissan 4 wheel drive pickup, I knew the owner did not want to pay $1000 to re and re the transfer case and transmission.

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
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