JGLyon68

Decoding 1935 Buick VIN number

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My uncle purchased a 1935 Buick Coupe with the intent to fix it up and sell it. However, he is no longer in the position to do so and I have been tasked with selling it. I didn't buy the car and there is not much on the car's title. I don't even know what model it is. Could someone help me decode the VIN? Can't find a place online that helps. The VIN is 2823228.

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JG,  there should be a cowel tag on the firewall in the engine compartment with the info you need, it will tell year, model, series, paint and interior colors codes. Looks like to me that it may be a 50 series 4 passenger(rumble seat) sport coupe with dual side mounts.  You need to post the info on the cowel tag along with the wheelbase(distance from center of rear wheel to center of front wheel)measurment. It is not a 40 series just by seeing 4 strips on the side of the hood. Would be a great car to have, do you plan to sell it? Looks to have after market headlights with some added park lights, and something has been done on the front bumper mounts. Are you missing the original side mount covers? Would like to see more pictures, has engine been replaced with a V-8? 6or12V system? Also looks to have different(not original) seats. Also where are you located? And does the back glass roll down?

Edited by pont35cpe (see edit history)

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The car is in St. George, Utah in my grandpa's garage. He can't find the cowel tag. The original engine was replaced (who knows how long ago) with a 350 V-8 and they have a piece of metal covering where he thinks the tag might have been. If you have a specific location for that tag, that would be helpful. The V-8 engine isn't running, but it does turn over. The distance between the two axels is 123". The bumper mounts are loose, is why the bumper is sagging. We don't have the original side mount covers. It has 102,630 miles according to the odometer. The seats have been replaced with some unstylish seats.  My uncle bought this car two years ago in eastern Washington and he has had the engine played with it a bit, but other than that, it is exactly as he purchased it. The back glass does not roll down.

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Number is 2823228 is the frame/chassis number.  Tells you nothing about the model-series-etc

1935 started at 2777650

Photo's under the hood may help. Cowl data plates about 6x4 inches. Maybe on the right.

 

Car looks to have later steering wheel & wire wheels (or covers). May have a later front suspension.  Disc brakes?

123 inch wheel base does not match as made

http://www.classiccardatabase.com/search.php?year=1935&make=Buick&series=609

http://www.classiccardatabase.com/search.php?year=1935&make=Buick&series=610

(note this data base in know to have some errors, but I do not have access to Buick info just now)

 

This site is more about restored cars, so most people here tend to that side of older cars. (Not modified cars)  Would have been a good car fully restored.

 

If you can sell for what was paid & cost of transport that is probably the best you can do

 

Edited by 1939_Buick (see edit history)

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2 minutes ago, JGLyon68 said:

Thanks for the info. It does have the "sunroof" option if that helps anyone identify it better.

Buick did not a full tin top until 1937.  All GM cars had that design and wooden body frames until then

 

As the car now has 350V8 & auto the Buick diff & torque tube has been probably been replaced by a later open drive diff & drive shaft. Makes measuring the (original) wheel base hard

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Car originally would not have had a sunroof. Most likely frame has been modified with a sub-frame to have the odd wheelbase and the odd front bumper mount. If it is what I suspect, its a 35-56S and would have been 119" wheelbase.

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21 minutes ago, pont35cpe said:

Car originally would not have had a sunroof. Most likely frame has been modified with a sub-frame to have the odd wheelbase and the odd front bumper mount. If it is what I suspect, its a 35-56S and would have been 119" wheelbase

Agree!  I had a 1934 56S with 5-wheel equipment for 40 years, and the proportions are right for a 50 series.  Had insert soft top which apparently has been converted in this case to a sunroof, or at least opened up for that purpose.

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The passenger door looks to be "out of alignment" about 1/2", bad/rotted wood?  Just be truthful, car has been street-rodded/modified, does not run, if wood is bad, major task to correctly repair. Chipped/flaking paint. You can`t expect a "premium" amount because of condition, it`s basically a "project car". State your price, but be ready for low offers, you may not get what your uncle paid for it.

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The best way to sell it would be to pull or push it out of the garage, take lots of good photos that show all areas of the car's interior, exterior, trunk compartment, undercarriage, and engine and then list it on ebay with a starting price of $100 with no reserve. Describe it as honestly as you can, but explain that you know little about the car and let the photos describe the car's condition. Expect it to be picked up by the new buyer at whatever the market says it is worth. If your uncle thinks he is going to make a profit on it, expect him to be disappointed. It is a project car needing everything and nonrunning projects don't bring that much money. 

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Measure the wheel mounting bolt center to center.      The 40 series had a 5” bolt circle,  3” bolt to bolt.    The 50 series had a 5-1/2” bolt circle with a bolt to bolt dimension of  3-1/4”.    I believe the 60 and 80 series had  the 6”  bigger bolt circle.    I have a 35-58 with the 3-1/4” bolt circle.   The ‘35’ Buicks had the last year of mechanical brakes.   So,  if it has hydraulic brakes, they are probably  ‘36’ parts.    They bolt up and you can have the first year Buick had hydraulic stopping power.    I’m in the process of converting to hydraulic brakes on my ‘35’.      First,  I live in an area where I would be destroyed trying to drive a car with mechanical brakes.     Second,  I drive my cars.   Hydraulic brakes are not obvious if your a purest.     Just like seat belts,  I will have hydraulic stopping power to drive my cars.     My first Buick is a  ‘38-46S.     

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On 7/23/2019 at 8:51 PM, Buick35 said:

It might be better to part it out.

 

On 7/24/2019 at 9:23 AM, nzcarnerd said:

With a 123" wb it is probably a Series 60.

 

17 hours ago, Jim Nelson said:

Measure the wheel mounting bolt center to center.      The 40 series had a 5” bolt circle,  3” bolt to bolt.    The 50 series had a 5-1/2” bolt circle with a bolt to bolt dimension of  3-1/4”.    I believe the 60 and 80 series had  the 6”  bigger bolt circle.    I have a 35-58 with the 3-1/4” bolt circle.   The ‘35’ Buicks had the last year of mechanical brakes.   So,  if it has hydraulic brakes, they are probably  ‘36’ parts.    They bolt up and you can have the first year Buick had hydraulic stopping power.    I’m in the process of converting to hydraulic brakes on my ‘35’.      First,  I live in an area where I would be destroyed trying to drive a car with mechanical brakes.     Second,  I drive my cars.   Hydraulic brakes are not obvious if your a purest.     Just like seat belts,  I will have hydraulic stopping power to drive my cars.     My first Buick is a  ‘38-46S.     

 

Original post was close to a year ago (Aug 22 2018)

As a guess owner has sold it by now

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