I need ECM help

[DAVES89]

As a "junker" I have a number of ECMs. It looks like an issue I have been having tells me to replace my ECM. Does anyone know the correct part number for a 1989 Buick Reatta ECM?

 Thanks!

[AZVET]

 Here is the number for one that is for sale on eBay right now:  8899918

[Ronnie]

Everything I can find shows, OEM Part #1228253 for the '89.

 

 

[Dashmaster]

I have been running a A1 Cardone for the last 3 years from Rock Auto with no issues. Prices for 89 ECM Rock Auto, A1 Cardone and AC Delco are about the same $81.79 Cardone  and  $93.79 delco. The Core charges are $9 cardone, $90 for delco.

When I got mine 3 years ago there were no core charges, Wonder if the supply is getting low so now they want the old one back

Looked up the 88, no core charges on most of them. Rock Auto shows the part numbers for the years maybe this will help.

Edited August 15, 2018 by Dashmaster (see edit history)

[DAVES89]

Well here is what I am dealing with. I have codes E024, E027, E028 that all go to history. The car has been getting harder to start by the week. So much so that I turn the key to the "run" position to hear the fuel pump run and that back to off and then turn to start. Then after starting it kicks and bucks [sometimes]. The rest of the day it runs good. 

 Yesterday that all changed. In the afternoon I went to start it and it would just grind and occasionally "kick" like it wanted to start. So to be sure what it was I popped the hood and tried doing a visual check of the fuel pressure at the fuel rail [keep in mind I am parked in a parking lot]. At first I got air and then gas that would jet up and hit the bottom side of the hood so I think pressure was good. I then checked for spark by pulling on of the spark plug wires at the coil. 

 Good spark.

 I have never seen air come from the schrader valve at the fuel rail. Where could that be coming from?

 Any ideas?

 I am thinking the ECM for the E024 code.

 This is on the Red [1989].

 Just now I went to start it and I turned the key and let it grind for about 3-5 seconds. Turned it off tried again and it popped right off. Turned it off again and tried it again popped right off, tried a third time popped right off again. 

[Dashmaster]

Dave,  When my ECM failed it would not fire all the injectors.  I picked up a Noid Test Kit to confirm ECM was bad. I could spray in starting fluid and car would run. Later on I found badly clogged injectors that I am sure did not help the ECM. All were in electrical specifications but some hardy flowed. Cleaned them and worked good. Replaced them later with Bosch III injectors.

 

If you want to borrow my Noid Kit I can mail it to you.

[Barney Eaton]

My theory is that since DOT requires manufactures to test and document engine performance and emissions.  To reduce the test time and DOT certification all 3800 between 1988 & 1990 are the same.....to a point, 

because of the vehicle weight and gear ratio, the chip may be programmed differently.    If I am correct,  the ECM from any GM car with a 3800 V6 would be the same,  but the part number would change based on the programming of the chip.

So if you have other ECM's give them a try......it is also pretty easy to experiment with them,  pull the connectors from yours and plug them into the trial unit....it can lay on the floor board.....no need to install it until you find one that

works for you.   Remember, you can put your chip in any of the other units.....just keep track of the chips

[harry yarnell]

Seem to recall that our years of the Reatta had issues with bad CPS's. Could explain your conditions. Won't set a code.

[DAVES89]

I have a number of ECMs but after a conversation with Kendall [my mechanic friend] decided to try the fuel regulator on the rail as I had one in back stock. Turned out that was the culprit. Took the car for a 130 mile ride and the car ran flawlessly. Tomorrow it goes for a 330 mile trip and Saturday about the same. I'll know for sure after this week is over.

 As a precaution I have tools, extra ECMs and an extra car battery in the car.

 Thanks for everyones input.

[DAVES89]

Just tried starting it before getting ready to leave and it started right up. Think I am good but still taking an extra battery, jumper cables, and ECM. 

 Tomorrow I head out to Gibson's for another backup regulator. There is a 2004 3.8 out there that just came in and if it is the same I'm grabbing it. These regulators are $100.00 at Advance.

[padgett]

All "C" 3800s use the -253 PCM just different e-proms for model (fed or Cal), axle, and year

[DAVES89]

14 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

Just tried starting it before getting ready to leave and it started right up. Think I am good but still taking an extra battery, jumper cables, and ECM. 

 Tomorrow I head out to Gibson's for another backup regulator. There is a 2004 3.8 out there that just came in and if it is the same I'm grabbing it. These regulators are $100.00 at Advance.

Okay in the last 2 days drove 400 miles since the regulator install. Car started and ran flawlessly so it looks like I am good. 

 So it looks like a field test to check the regulator is to depress the schrader valve on top of the engine. If air comes out and then fuel [under pressure] the regulator needs to be swapped out.

 This regulator had just under 281,000 miles on it so I would think it was just worn out. 

[DAVES89]

Went out to Gibson's yesterday and picked up two of them using Pagett's rule of "buy two, one should work". Will install one today and then I can keep a "known good one" in storage.

[DAVES89]

Installed one of the ones from Gibson's and it worked fine, so now I have a "known good one" in inventory. Drained the gas and put each one in its own zip lock bag.

 Drove 200 miles today and no hiccups...