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How not to ship vintage car literature


auburnseeker

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I just got the 4th of a 4 box lot of literature I paid 2G for. So this is a $500 box of literature.  Not from anyone on this forum but an off ebay because of ebay purchase I made.  One other box came in similar shape but atleast wasn't actually broken apart, though many of the brochures inside had smashed in corners. 

This one right through the hole I can see a 68 Ford brochure that's ruined for starters.  I discarded probably 30 or more items that were completely destroyed in the last.   Many more are damaged but I will still try to sell as the damage is limited enough I should hopefully get my investment  back on them. 

Please whenever sending anything heavy, literature lots or car parts, make sure it is secure in the box and cannot move.  If it is not somehow strapped in place,  make sure all voids in the box have packing material.  If it's heavy make sure it is relatively crush proof packing material.  Peanuts only work if over stuffed.  Sheet rigid foam is better.  I also use alot of egg cartons. 

For smaller lots of literature than this I use a rigid cardboard backer , shrink wrap the literature to it, then box it up in a foldable rigid book mailer or a literature mailer (depending on the size of the lot).  Seems the rate of damage this way has been almost non existence,  though I do get grief from customers for charging too much to ship since a brochure can be thrown in a manilla envelope.  Sorry I don't do it that way.  I have to guarantee it gets to you as it left,  so I'm going to do my best to make sure it does. 

If shipping anything that can't get wet, make sure it has a plastic layer like a bag or shrink wrap around it. (fortunately even with all the rain in the east this somehow never got wet, though my carrier left it out on my cement patio on a chair. ) Thankfully I was out in the garage (though they didn't know that) So I went right out and scooped it up. 

I will say a forum member did box up and send me a lot of literature and did a fantastic job of packaging it.  Thank you for that. 

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Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
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I use recycled items for packing whenever possible.  On the rare occasions that I sell and ship a car brochure or magazine, I make a backer board from cut-down cereal boxes.  I use the large-size Kellogg's boxes (Frosted Mini Wheats and Frosted Flakes as found in Costco/Sam's Club/BJ's).  That cardboard is very thin and very strong.  When shipping 3-dimensional items,  I wad-up clean plastic grocery bags and use them instead of plastic peanuts.   Better for the environment and better for me!

Edited by Harold (see edit history)
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In defense if the shipping agent, if the item isn’t prepared properly it will not fair well during shipment. There are a lot of parcels being moved around at any given time.It is a good idea to insert a separate shipping label with a return address inside the parcel In case the outside label gets damaged or lost. When shipping parts I use a shipping tag wired to the item. Zeke

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 I list just about everything on eBay with FREE Postage in the USA, yes I loose money on some West Coast sales.  I think FREE Postage attracts more buyers  for a $4.99 item rather than .99 cents plus $4.00 postage & handling. ALWAYS pack stuff as if I was the guy that was going to receive it.Bob 

Edited by 1937hd45 (see edit history)
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22 hours ago, West Peterson said:

You need to tell the shipper how to ship it when you buy it. Leave comments, stating exactly how you want it boxed.

I actually did tell him to make sure it was packaged tightly because of weight (foreseeing this happening) and that some sort of plastic moisture barrier should be used becasue alot of my packages have been left on my lawn furniture out in front of my house so they don't have to climb the steps the front door,  where there is a huge overhang that would keep it dry. 

 

I did get a reply back from him 

"Hello Randy---sorry to hear of the problem---but the packages are covered by postal insurance---so you might want to check about it---regards"
 
I told him it would actually be up to him to file the claim as it has to be filed by the shipper and since it would appear to be improperly packed the USPS would was their hands of it,  which for anyone not familiar with the USPS,  they will pretty much only honor insurance if the item is never delivered.  Da,mage will always be reverted to not being properly packaged.  So that free 50 insurance you get with priority is pretty much a crock.  I did try to file for it once on a car part and got such a run around on teh website (where it has to be filed on) that I gave up as time is money and I had wasted over an hour with no results. 
 
Which all this means is basically you get the shaft. 
 
It was an off ebay deal so no repercussion there and I sent a check so no real recourse that way. 
Suck it up and move on I guess.  I just wanted to point out that anyone shipping something should be sure they do a better job than this packaging.
Actually the best option here probably would have been to box them in half lots.  8-30 pound boxes would have been better than 4 -60 pound boxes.  It takes alot less force to burst a box apart with 60 pounds inside than with 30. 
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21 hours ago, 1937hd45 said:

 I list just about everything on eBay with FREE Postage in the USA, yes I loose money on some West Coast sales.  I think FREE Postage attracts more buyers  for a $4.99 item rather than .99 cents plus $4.00 postage & handling. ALWAYS pack stuff as if I was the guy that was going to receive it.Bob 

 

I let the customer pay the shipping,  though a few gripe,  many build a pile of items they would not normally buy if they all had a 5.00 opening bid.   where as with 1.99 or something they will buy 3 to 10 of knowing the shipping will only be 6 or 7 bucks.  I lay the biggest fault on the shipper.  When you are planning on sending it Media mail,  you need to pack accordingly.  Discounted bottom of the bucket shipping is just that.  

Same with cars, when you get a crazy cheap shipping price, hope for the best but don't be surprised if your prized possession ends up on the back of an equipment trailer with a pile of clapped out equipment or junk cars just short of rubbing against it for the last 1000 miles. 

I sold my 68 Big block tripower Vette to a guy (nice looking driver with good paint and chrome) that hired a flatbed trailer to haul it.  That's a flat deck regular Semi trailer.  The guy had 2 ramps that looked like ladders that I had to drive up and the car hung the frame up on the back of the trailer,  so he had to use a bar to pick the car up so the frame would clear the the back of the trailer.  HE strapped it down with barely a hands width between the v in the front bumper and the back bumper of an SUV he had strapped on it. 

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"Good" literature gets mailed in a Flat Rate envelope, there is a larger Legal Size most post offices don't stock, but you can order them. I assume everyone owns a table saw and has access to free 1/8 Masonite and plywood scrap for backers . A milk crate with pre cut pieces makes same or next day shipping easy...………….. .if I haven't misplaced the item. Bob 

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The amount I ship I would need to order in a truck load of masonite or 1/8 inch ply.  The book mailers (foldable for size made of rigid cardboard) with a liner piece precut with the item shrunk wrapped to it seems to be the most cost effective way to ship large quantities.  I have had 30 or more at one time to drop off at the post office and that was probably a monday mailing after they were closed Sunday.   You still need a moisture barrier as I've had those envelopes get shipped to me wet.  They also need to be secured inside so they don't move around and have the images rubbed off their back in transit. 

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I shipped a literal pick up load of marine manuals a couple of months ago.

I dropped them all off at the local UPS store where the buyer had made arrangements and I am pretty sure they went thru the mail at the media rate.

I never heard back from the buyer, who knows, he may still be waiting.

Its a long trip from Oregon to Illinois.

Edited by JACK M (see edit history)
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Here we go, a before and after shipping. I had Hudson parts for sale on ebay, and Auburnseeker bought some of them. We will see what the box looks like when it gets there. Heavy cardboard box (for drive shaft parts) each part wrapped in bubble wrap, and box filled with packing material. Nice parts, it will be labeled fragile.

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Sounds good.  I was just thinking when I ran to the next town for more crap for the garage project, that they would probably show up and I wouldn't be there to sign for them.

 Had the Big boy out today for a trip up town.

 Now I have a Throwout bearing going bad I think in my 40 Ford coupe. It was quiet for about 30 seconds then got noisy real fast.  I tore the floor all out to get at the inspection cover and found the spring was dragging on it.  I fixed that,  but it's still noisy and looks like it threw the grease out of it all at once.   The whole clutch bell housing and bearing assemblies all look new when they restored it 20 years ago and probably 20 miles since. 

I might try drilling a hole in it and greasing it first as mentioned on the Ford Barn.  It's a Made in USA Aetna bearing and spins freely.  Not looking forward to dropping the rear end out to get the tranny out to access it. 

I would rather spend that time putting your pretty parts on my Hudson. 

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Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
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Have no idea how the bearing drilling was described but if you are going to drill through the steel jacket i suggest you stop just before the bit breaks through. Then use a prick punch to complete the hole. That eleminates the chips in the bearing problem......bob

 

Edited by Bhigdog (see edit history)
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Here’s a sad one for you. Like yea dude, the Post Office pays attention to fragile stickers. Oh but I see, you added “very” ...that should take care of the lack of a box with any structure to it. Why is it always the rare old stuff that idiots like this  don’t use due diligence in packaging. So sad to see something that lasted this long given such disrespect and destroyed. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update.

The box arrived in fine order,  though the carrier perched it on top of the arm of my Adirondack Chair.  Good thing it wasn't windy.  It would have blown off as it's a fairly light box. 

Even then Xander packed it well so nothing would have been damaged. 

Here are a few shots of the box and a couple of the parts I finally got on my truck. 

I even lucked out on the hood emblem light, as of the 3 I have all are pretty crappy with bare wire and rusty sockets,  but I had on the shelf from years of collecting and selling NOS parts a NOS light socket and pigtail assembly,  even the correct length.  Ironically it was for a Ford, but I never fully identified the application as it wasn't worth the time.  Glad I saved it.  I added the NOS insert but the western chrome is very good for my driver.  The original shown below actually has a bunch of holes ground through it where they tried to grind the pits out before they rechromed it then just left the holes.

I also added a nice hood ornament that has been on my shelf just waiting for a day I was far enough under that hood to get to the mounting bolts.

I still have the fender lights to swap out, but I'm back to working on the 40 Ford today fixing the cobs of the person that restored it.  How can a brand new Bob Drake Trunk handle assembly be installed with a bunch of pieces missing and a non functional tag light when the car has a brand new correct wire harness, The handle doesn't even stay in the base and the lock cylinder which I have the key for is jammed in the sleeve.  The gasket for the tag light was missing so you couldn't tighten the light up enough to make contact for a ground.  It's incredible how someone can screw so much stuff up when it seems like basic installation of brand new parts designed for that exact application.  Instead of replacing the trunk hinge springs,  they made drop arms that could be bolted to the trunk hinges to hols it open.  I just shake my head. 

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That is original chrome on that emblem housing, dry Idaho sun treats chrome good out here. You can kiss good bye steering wheels and shift knobs. I can see why you wanted to replace the one that was on there. Nice hood ornament, hard to find ones with out a lot of pits in the fine lines. Glad the box made it with out damage, good parts are to hard to find.

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The hood ornament had a few pits.  I actually cleaned up the recess and painted it silver,  leaving all the rest of the chrome brilliant.  Looks like it could have came that way.  Honestly most people wouldn't know as they don't even know what it is,  though in big letters on the bed it says 1947 Hudson.  I think I have less than $50 in it.  Otherwise I would have bid on yours if I didn't have a good one.  I probably 2 to 3 of a bunch of pieces of chrome for my truck,  but every piece is alot worse than the next.   Your stuff was just what it needed.  I just won an NOS hubcap on ebay as well.  Mine are presentable but one's beat up a bit.  They rarely come up in good shape.  I've noticed little of anything comes up for them. 

I think my next Hudson will be a Stepdown.  Parts seem plentiful.  Actually the earlier ones 42 and back seem to be easier to find NOS parts for and the prices seem very reasonable.

I just pulled the pork chop out of the evaporust and will paint the shield on it,  then probably bolt it on this afternoon.  Ironically the wire connector on the Hudson for the hood emblem light was a 2 to 1,  so I replaced it with a 1 to 1 connector,  then working on putting my Ford back together I needed a 1 to 2 connector for the horns someone cobbed up.  So it worked out good.  Ford parts on the Hudson and Hudson parts on the Ford.  The Judges won't like it. ;)

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
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Shipping   I bought a Quick Lift and if it hadn't been made of steel, it would have been trashed.  UPS did all the damage it could to the boxes that weighed 114 pounds apiece.

I can imagine the treatment it got.  The two side lifts got the worse of it but the pump and controls made it fine.  The UPS guy was glad to get them out of his truck. Said he was tripping over them all day.

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Here are some more of Xanders Shiny bits on the big boy. 

Before and Afters, so you can see how welcome the new parts are. 

There are suppose to be ribs in those fender lights.  Whoever plated them,  ground all the ribs out to get rid of the pits.  Now they are blistering anyways and have weird dull spots in them as well as waviness from them grinding the ribs out.  One of Xander's was NOS and the other was a good replate. I still have to wire new sockets into the light bases that I have that are rechromed but I mounted these over my bases (which you only see a little of) The plating on Xander's bases are excellent so the whole lights will look really nice when I do that and put new gaskets down. They swapped out so quickly, I couldn't resist putting them on the truck. 

Now with the new lights my decent Headlight bezels (tough to find a set any better, I know as I have about 4 or 5 extras) look kind of crappy. 

 

 

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Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)
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Looking sharp, someone really wiped out all the detail on your old fender lights. When you replace the front base pieces on the fender lights. Switch them from side to side, so the screw on the cover piece faces inward. Also, after putting cool stuff on your classic ride, you are required to go for a drive.;)  Looks good, glad you got the parts you needed.

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