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Headlight bulbs


David_Leech

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Are they prefocus lights? i.e. is there an adjustment for position of the bulb in or out in the reflector? It is usually a screw in the centre of the headlight at the rear.

 

Are the pins opposite or offset? They look like BA15D bases (opposite), though they may be BAY15D - can't tell. Anyway, you need to specify the base if they are not available by the old numbers (e.g. fitting LEDs).

 

The ripples may have something to do with a focusing theory of the time.

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Typically these are 1000 Mazda light bulbs. This was a standard number for bulbs regardless of manufacturer. Typically 32/32 candlepower. Model A headlamp bulbs are fine but will not have the ribs. I would suggest a 50/32 candlepower, gives you a better high beam. Old bulbs are around but getting harder to find. Rob

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10 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

Are they prefocus lights? i.e. is there an adjustment for position of the bulb in or out in the reflector? It is usually a screw in the centre of the headlight at the rear.

 

Are the pins opposite or offset? They look like BA15D bases (opposite), though they may be BAY15D - can't tell. Anyway, you need to specify the base if they are not available by the old numbers (e.g. fitting LEDs).

 

The ripples may have something to do with a focusing theory of the time.

 

 

The pins are opposite, not offset

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An incandescent bulb of the type in our cars puts out about 10 lumens per Watt. Your LED is probably about 60 to 80 lumens per Watt.

 

Roughly, a candlepower is equivalent to 12.57 lumens (that is the "usual" conversion factor). So a 21 cp bulb is ca 263 lumens and it would burn about 26 W of electrickery or 4.4 A at 6 V.

 

Your LED will be about 10 W or about 1.7 A at 6 V, and you get 2.5 times as much light. Why hesitate.....? because....

 

Just remember to make sure the light source can be placed in the same place in the reflector as the old incandescent bulb filament is - assuming you have pre-focus headlights.

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Has anyone done an led swap? I'm interested on safety aspects. All my bulbs all around. I do hesitate only on originality. I love the charm of the single brake and tail light, the hugely inadequate headlights, the lack of turn signals. However, driving in modern traffic I get people trying to run into the back of me, waving back when I'm signalling, getting cut off, and driving home blind if I stayed out too late. Not an issue in 1928, bit of a problem in 2018 city traffic.

 

Are they anymore noticeable than the regular bulbs? I picked up slim led signal light bar that sticks in the back window and I'm going to make my cowl lights into signals. They are useless as anything else really. It will still look stock except for the signal switch, a signal-stat 700 clamped to the steering column

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9 hours ago, David_Leech said:

Has anyone done an led swap? I'm interested on safety aspects. All my bulbs all around. I do hesitate only on originality. I love the charm of the single brake and tail light, the hugely inadequate headlights, the lack of turn signals. However, driving in modern traffic I get people trying to run into the back of me, waving back when I'm signalling, getting cut off, and driving home blind if I stayed out too late. Not an issue in 1928, bit of a problem in 2018 city traffic.

 

Are they anymore noticeable than the regular bulbs? I picked up slim led signal light bar that sticks in the back window and I'm going to make my cowl lights into signals. They are useless as anything else really. It will still look stock except for the signal switch, a signal-stat 700 clamped to the steering column

Totally agree we need to have indicators these days in the traffic we are in. I got abused the other day for going to slow so I just waved and smiled as I was telling him to get F##### quietly. I fitted the old style looking led brake and indicator on the back and some small tear drop motor bike indicators on the front. I’ll try find a pic for you. I fitted H4 bulbs to my headlights and held them in with 3 springs. 

4FA721F4-8A17-481D-9814-96D3EBE44F62.jpeg

444276D7-AB7C-4C52-8CE6-3819C78B9667.jpeg

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On mine, the headlight switch has 4 positions (in theory) - off - cowl lights - low beam headlight - high beam headlight

 

The reality of them is - off - slightly less off - useless glow - a slightly different useless glow - The switch is mounted to the side of the steering column

 

I just got back from a drive and it is well into dark. I don't usually drive the old girl this late. (And I'm still on one headlight). The dash light was freaking searing my eyes. There is a little shield, i closed it and it helped a bit, but then I couldn't see the gauges and there was still a sliver of colapsed star shining out from behind it. I think I'm going to install a dimmer. 

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My globes are perfect, the silvering inside is immaculate. The 21 candle power bulbs just aren't capable of shining useable light. In pitch dark they would work. Modern streetlights overpower what light they are capable of producing. LEDs are on the way and should be 47 candle power. We will see.

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  • 2 weeks later...

David,  You mention your Dodge Brothers is a '28 Standard 6? The bulb shown is a double contact dual filament bulb. The Standard 6 used a 1141 6V single contact bulb with a resistor element on the power terminal strip on the right side of the cowl for what passes as lo beam. The parking lights were on a single socket in the upper part of the reflector when cowl lights were not installed.

          The Victory 6 I believe used a double contact bulb for low and hi beams instead of the resistor.

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16 hours ago, RAH said:

David,  You mention your Dodge Brothers is a '28 Standard 6? The bulb shown is a double contact dual filament bulb. The Standard 6 used a 1141 6V single contact bulb with a resistor element on the power terminal strip on the right side of the cowl for what passes as lo beam. The parking lights were on a single socket in the upper part of the reflector when cowl lights were not installed.

          The Victory 6 I believe used a double contact bulb for low and hi beams instead of the resistor.

 

Perhaps it was upgraded at some point? It's certainly double contact housing. I do know of the resistor you mentioned, I wondered what that was for. It is still there. Not sure if it is functional.

 

My LEDs showed up, will update once they are installed.

 

As for the generator, she puts out 30 amps no problem. Turn the lights on and it drops to near zero amps on the gauge. These bulbs are just drawing a ton of power! Noticeably bright though. I have a 60A maxi fuse installed as a main circuit protection

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LEDs installed, draw next to no amps, almost as bright as the Ford Model A healight bulbs I put in. Also did the cowl, tail, and stop lamps. Even with the thick red glass, the rear lamps are far brighter than they were before with the incandescent bulbs (safety!!)

 

From this eBay seller:

 

https://ebay.ca/usr/led_bulbs_for_classic_cars

 

Would not pass for modern headlights, but they work well in this application. I just need to wait for nightfall to adjust the focus

20180909_183215.jpg

20180909_183221.jpg

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