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1939 Buick Torque Ball Needed


Jim Addington

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I will look 4 my xtra '39 nos torque ball. I think I still have it. I thought Bobs offered recovering your core? Not inexpensive though, 385.00?

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I have a used one.  All you have to do is turn it upside down and it's as good as new.  I ran one like that for years.  But, I'm willing to bet you need a lot more than just the torque ball like the rear driveshaft front bearing and seals (front and rear of the bearing are different) and probably a front driveshaft too.  Oldtime mechanics didn't nickname it a "jackshaft" for nothing.  I've been dealing with this driveshaft for 55 years.  The torque ball mounts are harder to find than almost any part of this one year design.  And 2carb40 if you've got more than one nos torque ball drop me a line.  I've got a number of extra nos jackshafts.  That Hyatt gear is rarer than hens teeth too.  I couldn't find one of those in 1968 or the seal either.  I've bought ever one of those three items I've ever seen for sale nos.  I just sold  complete set to a gentleman I met on here.  I no longer have a complete set of pieces to spare now, but some parts of it.  In fact I have to inventory those items tomorrow for a man who called me today pleading.......I don't have but one set of torque ball mounts even for myseslf.  I have some used ones if you find out Steele can re-vulcanize them.

 

Edited by Dynaflash8 (see edit history)
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Our mutual friend Doug Seybold recommended to me that when I replaced my torque ball in my Century that I polish it before installing it. Get it to shine like a mirror (since I took it apart again for restoration, I'll probably send it out and have it hard chrome plated). That will seal it up better than the rough machined surface that most of them have from the factory. Just a tip!

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Hi All,

Thanks for your valuable responses. I asked Bob's about reconditioning today. They had no one to do it.

On my last look up under the ball boot seal, it looked shredded and shot. I had replaced the pilot bearing, clutch,

and trans gaskets, but did not feel looseness in the u-joint or shaft. I was and am getting a bad vibration at 45 - 50 MPH.

The whole drive train and front end shakes. Have replaced kingpins, a-frame bushings and balanced tires.

I have not taken it down yet due to not having a torque ball to install. Just driving less than 45.

I may need the front shaft also when i get into it. The mounting bushings are frozen in the threads, but i think I can free them.

We have great car shows down here with 250 - 300 cars. Lots of fun to keep them running and original.

Any advise or assistance is welcome.

Jim A

 

 

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Thanks Terry,

I did replace the front mounts about 14 years ago. I have checked them again when replacing the front crank seal (leather) and also checked the rear when replacing the clutch. It was my first guess then. Pretty sure it's the torque ball. I'll know soon.

Jim A ?

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With regard to Matt Harwood's comments and advice, you can't polish a 1939 Special or Century torque ball, because they are covered, inside and outside with some form of vulcanized rubber.  You could polish the inside and outside retainers.  That might help in some way.  It's something I've never done.  One inside torque ball retain was all scored up when I took it out because all of the rubber was gone from the torque ball itself.  The rubber wears off the inside of the torque ball first and one time my mechanic just turned it over and I ran a number of years longer until I found some new torque balls over many years back in the mid-1970s when I was buying out dealers and selling parts.  I think, but do not know it, that the front bearing and two seals at the front of the rear driveshaft go bad and causes grease to run into the rubber covered torque ball and ruin it.  Back in 1968 I could not find any of those parts nor new torque ball mounts.  The bearing was torn up.  I finally did find the bearing at a bearing house in Baltimore.  It interchanged with a tractor or something.  The seals were harder, but I found them on the shelf at an old junkyard on Route 1 in Laurel, MD.  After that I have collected that stuff any time I have ever found it...for all these years.  I will say my original car in the picture had a vibration between 45-50 after the engine was rebuilt and mechanics gave me several reasons from the clutch to the non-re-balanced crankshaft.  I replaced the clutch in the 1977 I replaced the clutch with another rebuilt one when I had the valves reground.  There was no change in the vibration.  During the 90s I had to replace the clutch again and used Buick parts as I recall.  I didn't pay attention at the time as I was used to the vibration...it wasn't that bad....but I have noticed on tours in the last number of years there is no more vibration, so who knows?

Edited by Dynaflash8 (see edit history)
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  • 3 years later...

There was a guy asking for cores to experiment with. He posted a photo of his finished units, I believe on Facebook. Unfortunately, I don't recall his info as I've saved one last NOS for my greedy self & didn't then document contact info. I think he may have posted his request on this site as well, so a search well targeted may locate info on his particulars. I also bought a driveshaft bearing kit from Ol Car Bearing, which I think was purchased from former owners estate fairly lately(bearings) do qualify for 'hens teeth' status! Buggered out front splines are another 'syndrom' to look for, although driveshaft repair shop can attach new splines on a damaged original. Sorry I can't be of more help, but I bought spares for future potential use  

on my coupe and called it good. Dave T. Jolly John and  John Hansen, Peoria Ill,swaps at most Nationals. Bill Scwinsiki of Mi(forgive spg please) huge Nos parts supply, Dave&Bryan Blake, Blake Engineering Pheonix AZ, MANY BUICKS OWNED may also have '39 stuff. The other folks that have parts may be 'less young' hence not 'computorized'! That's it, not a big brain but I hope it helps some. Good luck!

Edited by 2carb40 (see edit history)
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I don't have any nos (rubber) inner torque balls, but I have cores, a nos 60 series jack shaft plus other items if that will help.

                                                                             Thanks

                                                                                Leif

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I just talked with Jim, the guy looking for this part. He DOES NOT need a torque ball. He needs the all-metal, inner torque ball retainer. This is the metal part in front of the torque ball that the "cup" of the torque ball fits over. A common part that usually doesn't wear much. So, I'm sure one of the guys should have exactly what he needs. I gave Jim the part number (sorry I closed the book!) and suggested he get back on here with that into. John

Edited by Jolly_John (see edit history)
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19 hours ago, Jolly_John said:

I just talked with Jim, the guy looking for this part. He DOES NOT need a torque ball. He needs the all-metal, inner torque ball retainer. This is the metal part in front of the torque ball that the "cup" of the torque ball fits over. A common part that usually doesn't wear much. So, I'm sure one of the guys should have exactly what he needs. I gave Jim the part number (sorry I closed the book!) and suggested he get back on here with that into. John

I may have a new or used one in the garage still.  I will try to look this afternoon.  Today is a very, very busy day for me.

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1 hour ago, Dynaflash8 said:

I may have a new or used one in the garage still.  I will try to look this afternoon.  Today is a very, very busy day for me.

I do have one good used inner torque ball retainer if you want it.   Price is $45 plus shipping.  Dynaflash8, 225 Eagle Ave., Sebring, FL 33870.

Phone 804-366-4870

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On 2/28/2022 at 10:34 AM, 2carb40 said:

There was a guy asking for cores to experiment with. He posted a photo of his finished units, I believe on Facebook. Unfortunately, I don't recall his info as I've saved one last NOS for my greedy self & didn't then document contact info. I think he may have posted his request on this site as well, so a search well targeted may locate info on his particulars. I also bought a driveshaft bearing kit from Ol Car Bearing, which I think was purchased from former owners estate fairly lately(bearings) do qualify for 'hens teeth' status! Buggered out front splines are another 'syndrom' to look for, although driveshaft repair shop can attach new splines on a damaged original. Sorry I can't be of more help, but I bought spares for future potential use  

on my coupe and called it good. Dave T. Jolly John and  John Hansen, Peoria Ill,swaps at most Nationals. Bill Scwinsiki of Mi(forgive spg please) huge Nos parts supply, Dave&Bryan Blake, Blake Engineering Pheonix AZ, MANY BUICKS OWNED may also have '39 stuff. The other folks that have parts may be 'less young' hence not 'computorized'! That's it, not a big brain but I hope it helps some. Good luck!

 

I relined a batch of torque balls last year.  Bought the mold and information on how to do the process from the gentleman that used to do them for Bob's.  I needed uncured neoprene rubber of the proper durometer and an industrial metal to rubber bonding compound and an oven to vulcanize the rubber.  Bob's purchased most of my relined torque balls, they are available from him online.  I currently only have a pile of cores awaiting relining.  Uncured neoprene (not easy to find) has a shelf life of less than 6 months, and the industrial bonding agent has a shelf life of less than a year and will only ship to an automotive business address.   (I'm just a retired guy, with no automotive background tinkering in my garage)  I may reline the cores I have this summer.

No photo description available.

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Greetings Mark 

             Glad you extended the drivable life of a few '39 Buicks, CUDOS! Unfortunate that after figuring out the tech aspects you still have to try and navigate the beraucratic roadblocks to progress! Makes ya wanna jump in for another round, eh? Thanks anyway! With my extra NOS one I plan on the coupe outlastin' me!

 

 

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